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csa's engine rebuild


csa

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It's expensive if the crank's a bent or reground scrapper, yes :) I really think you need to totally strip the engine to its last nut and bolt, clean it all off and take it for professional measuring and checking, then decide where to go. If you can't do 90% of a rebuild yourself it may well be cheaper to buy a Toyota factory built short motor and a new head casting, and build from there. If all this sounds expensive or a lot of hassle, I honestly think you should reassess your power goals. A desire for a reliable 600 BHP, as economically as possible, and a base engine that sounds like it could be best used for re cycling doesn't work out. Next step should be a full inspection by a decent engine shop. Do the maths, if a new short motor even approaches the price of sorting yours (and I suspect it will cost MORE than a new short engine, by far), then you know how next to proceed.

 

Eagle rods are an unknown quantity, IMO. Some people seem to use them with no issues, personally I think you should buy Carrillo, Arrow or Farndon.

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I'm allready ahead of you Chris :-) motor is booked in next week for stripdown by a very well renound tuner and engine shop. Time will tell what to do.

 

powerwise 600 is by no means a fixed goal. however it IS a fixed goal to have a reliale street engine, wheter it being 500, 550 or 600 doesnt really matter. The current setup taken over from Jamie was little over 500 and did the job well enough for me :-)

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  • 2 weeks later...

ok, did a little more work this weekend:

 

freed everything up so the engine was ready to go out:

http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/4440/dsc00125io2.jpg

 

harness out:

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/3792/dsc00126tq3.jpg

 

Going once:

http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/6522/dsc00132dz0.jpg

 

going twice:

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/6748/dsc00136qt0.jpg

 

OUT!

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5191/dsc00138rv4.jpg

 

so the engine is ready to go to the shop:

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/3663/dsc00144ks5.jpg

 

Btw, this is how a £900 "porting and polishing" job looks like from Turbofit:

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/5889/dsc00143im1.jpg

 

and this is how Turbofit does tensioner bracket mounting without the use of a bolt!!! :blink::

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/303/dsc00145uz0.jpg

 

 

So it's being shipped off to the guy who's going to do the engine build now. time will tell if Turbofit "forgot" to put in the ferrea valve gear as well. But at least the HKS cams are there :cool:

 

was thinking of eagle rods and Wiseco or JE pistons. Any recommendations?

Edited by csa (see edit history)
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I ran JE pistons with eagle rods in my old supra, nice bit of kit. I have used wiseco in my old 300zx I think companys on ebay do these as a kit form for little money

 

had a look and it's all american shops offering that. think I will use flatlander, they seem good on prices and I dont have to deal with the hassle of import taxes ect.

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Just spoke to the guy rebuilding my engine. he strongly recommended that I swapped my oilcooler core for a new unit as the old one could contain debree from the bearings.

 

what's your thoughts on this? wouldn't it be possile just to give it a good flush of oilbased engine cleaner spray?

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If you know of anyone with a parts cleaner you could put it in there. I'm not convinced that a "spray" would get it all out. You could empty the contents of your spray into a jug and pour it all in and sloosh it around a fair bit then pour it out and then put some fresh cleaner in and do it again and again until you were sure there was no more crap in there.

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I wouldnt risk it at all!!The small metal fillings can really get stuck inside the cooler,you can clean it and think its ok but in time the fillings will make there way back into the engine and bang gone again:(

A new cooler will only be a few pound!or pay for another engine build??

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ok, time for an update.

 

Engine has been taken apart and things doesn't look good at all.

 

The shortblock should have about 7000 miles on it tops, but the guy working on it says it looks more like 60.000

 

as seen in the picture below, the first main bearing is completely crushed. Same goes for the first rod bearing.

Then the really wild bit; the 2nd maincap was broken clean over!

There was absolutely nothing to see before the mainbolts came off and it just split in two.

 

Left is front of the engine:

 

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/1483/christanssupra005ne3.jpg

 

My guy tells me that he suspects that the maincap has been broken for a longer time as the broken ends are black with oil even though the surfaces sat so tightly togheter.

 

Closeup of the broken main cap:

 

http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/7586/christanssupra042kp0.jpg

 

In this next pic you can see 3 very deep marks on the main bearing:

 

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/2606/christanssupra046kg3.jpg

 

Also because of the bearings faliure you can see from this pic that the crank has been moving back and forth, so compared to the "new" crank you can see that the entire surface is blank on the old one and theres a black "inner line" on the new used one:

 

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/9880/christanssupra018yv2.jpg

 

and on the front of the crank theres a nail deep scratch from the bearing:

 

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/3661/christanssupra021kq2.jpg

 

Finally all the pistons look good and theres no sign of detonation, however looking at the head, it's quite oily in the first chamber from the front of the engine:

(the one on the right)

 

http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/8229/christanssupra028md4.jpg

 

But on the cylinder walls there are clear marks:

 

http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/4972/christanssupra085fz6.jpg

 

so all in all I guess the block is finished....or does anyone think something else?

Edited by csa (see edit history)
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Looks like scrap to me, i can promise you that was a brand new short block (i might even have pics on my old pc) from steve manley at inchscape, collected it myself, when the car went to you it had not done many miles, they was JamieP miles mind.

 

First time ive seen/heard of a main cap breaking, id be supprised if that broke before the bearing went, id say the bearing spun and caused the main cap to break.

Edited by JamieP (see edit history)
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Looks like scrap to me, i can promise you that was a brand new short block (i might even have pics on my old pc) from steve manley at inchscape, collected it myself, when the car went to you it had not done many miles, they was JamieP miles mind.

 

First time ive seen/heard of a main cap breaking, id be supprised if that broke before the bearing went, id say the bearing spun and caused the main cap to break.

 

I know it was new, that's why I find it so incredible that it's gone so badly wrong so fast. oil has been changed more than regularly and always warmed and cooled by the books

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