tooquicktostop Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 You can get a whole new bottom end for around 2K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 unfortunately used cranks are very scarce overhere, but maybe someone on the forum can help me in that direction. ...anybody got the partnumber on the crank? could be interesting to see what Toyota would charge for a new unit Steve manley would be your best bet at inchscape toyota oxford, if you have any trouble with people not wanting to post parts out to you i can help mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 N/A crank is the same crank and part number. Over here the N/A engine complete has little resale value. Ce? Could you make a trip and buy a few between friends, and corer the market in spares? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chiefgroover Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 CP pistons, carillo H rods, new crank, PHR mains caps (line bored) , all fully balanced, if nicely machined may be OK for 8K rpm and regular hard driving? what do you think Chris? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csa Posted January 18, 2009 Author Share Posted January 18, 2009 N/A crank is the same crank and part number. Over here the N/A engine complete has little resale value. Ce? Could you make a trip and buy a few between friends, and corer the market in spares? uh didn't know that...might look into finding one of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csa Posted January 18, 2009 Author Share Posted January 18, 2009 Steve manley would be your best bet at inchscape toyota oxford, if you have any trouble with people not wanting to post parts out to you i can help mate. thanks mate :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee P Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 CP pistons, carillo H rods, new crank, PHR mains caps (line bored) , all fully balanced, if nicely machined may be OK for 8K rpm and regular hard driving? what do you think Chris? Cosworth pistons, carrillo rods, ACL race bearings and a good used crank would be the choice. The main caps are not worth the hassle unless going for well over 800hp and drag racing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csa Posted January 18, 2009 Author Share Posted January 18, 2009 oh just forgot. I HAVE actually been offered a used crank (from a guy who's done a 3.4 conversion) but it's done more than 125.000 miles. any good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee P Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 oh just forgot. I HAVE actually been offered a used crank (from a guy who's done a 3.4 conversion) but it's done more than 125.000 miles. any good? Get it checked first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 oh just forgot. I HAVE actually been offered a used crank (from a guy who's done a 3.4 conversion) but it's done more than 125.000 miles. any good? the one i am rebuilding an engine with has about the same miles and measures up smack on, if it comes from an engine that has had the proper oil changes it should be fine, get it measured up to the Toyota specs, remember we are not talking about old Ford engines here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Cosworth pistons, carrillo rods, ACL race bearings and a good used crank would be the choice. The main caps are not worth the hassle unless going for well over 800hp and drag racing. Spot on. That's exactly my spec. Might even finish the thing one day if the parts I'm waiting for ever arrive! New caps require line boring, which is very expensive to do properly, frankly I don't know anyone with the capability to do it that I'd trust, and neither did either of the race machine shops I talked to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csa Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 ok, cranck is beeing droped off at the machine shop tomorrow. The guy I'm buying it from told me to get the rods checked as well as they could have got oval when the bearing gave up. Normal prcedure or overkill? Next question: People here in Denmark seems to go for stock toyota bearings when rebuilding, even in high powered cars. should I do the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 As I said before you DEFINITELY should : Replace the rods with spun bearings, not worth trying to resize. Replace the block if a main has spun. Don't grind the crank, a good used one at standard size is far better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csa Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 would it be okay to replace the rods withs used ones? (the ones I've got on hand is from the same 125K miles engine) or should I go for new ones...maybe an aftermarket? mind that I dont plan on doing more than 600 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DannoSupra Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 I got my rods out of my UK Spec done 100k before strip if they interest you at all? If your not going aftermarket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Used ones will still need checking for size and ovality, but unless over revved or suffereing other trauma, shouldn't need machining. Offset the costs against new. N/A and TT engines share the same rods. 600 HP engines and tight budgets / used bits don't make happy bed fellows Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DannoSupra Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 tbh i wouldnt buy any used items, especially internals, for any engine let alone a high spec single turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chiefgroover Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 IF you wont be over 600FWHP and keep the stock rev limit, you may get a while out of a new OEM bottom end. At least yours sure of the machine work quality which is one of the biggest problems with rebuilding. Add a massive oil cooler, arp bolts on the rods and mains/ head, and you could have a motor that may do a resonable space of time / miles. I have used but good ARP head studs if you want them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csa Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 IF you wont be over 600FWHP and keep the stock rev limit, you may get a while out of a new OEM bottom end. At least yours sure of the machine work quality which is one of the biggest problems with rebuilding. Add a massive oil cooler, arp bolts on the rods and mains/ head, and you could have a motor that may do a resonable space of time / miles. I have used but good ARP head studs if you want them. I allready got arp headbolts in it so should be able to use those. (and have allready bought you rod bolts ) anyone know the price of new rods? and hot do they compare to eagle rods? (yes yes I know Carillo is the best to get) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquicktostop Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 I allready got arp headbolts in it so should be able to use those. (and have allready bought you rod bolts ) anyone know the price of new rods? and hot do they compare to eagle rods? (yes yes I know Carillo is the best to get) When I purchased a new bottom end I changed the rods to Brian Crower, I could ne give away the new OEM rods !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csa Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 I could ne give away the new OEM rods !! my english just gave up...what do you mean by that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chiefgroover Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Pauter or Carillo. Buy well now, its cheap in the long run. Be VERY fussy about who bores and hones your block, the guy who does 100bhp 1.6 engines can get away with a bit, but at your power level it must be spot on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csa Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 Pauter or Carillo. Buy well now, its cheap in the long run. Be VERY fussy about who bores and hones your block, the guy who does 100bhp 1.6 engines can get away with a bit, but at your power level it must be spot on. where to get above at best price in UK? I got just the right machine show here in copenhagen for the job Highly skilled people used by all the local raceteams. they are charging me 200 quid for balancing the crank (expensive?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquicktostop Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 my english just gave up...what do you mean by that? Sorry When we removed the Stock rods, I tried to sell them, they were of course brand new, they went for £20 on ebay in the end, so I would be amazed if knowone on here had a new set hanging around from an engine build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csa Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 damn...would have liked those! well I might stick a "Wanted" up on the sales section then :-) ...If I decide to go with stock that is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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