Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

csa's engine rebuild


csa

Recommended Posts

Ok, I guess it's time to do a project thread.

 

As some of you know the car spun a shell back in september and has been in the darkness of the garage since.

 

I finally got around to install the lift in the garage last weekend, and so the job of removing the engine is beginning.

 

Had a few hours to spend this evening so I got the following stuff done (in order of apperance):

 

Removed headlamps

Removed the front end

Removed the hood

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/6738/img9161fc6.jpg

 

Dained the water

Removed breather system

Removed cooler, fan and slam panels

Removed IC piping with Bov and NOS kit

Removed fuelrail and injectors

Started removal of wiring harness

http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/8458/img9162ri2.jpg

 

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/2052/img9163xl8.jpg

 

 

As this is my first time I'm taking an engine out of any car, this thread will also help me keeping track of things when I'm assembling it again. (hence all the tape markings on the wires)

So any recommendations would be appreciated :search:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 182
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My advice would be to leave the loom on the engine until it's removed, and just disconnect the engine loom in the LH foot well.

 

Spun a shell means the crank has fused to a bearing shell and instead of the crank pin turning within the shell bearing, the bearing shell has turned within its own housing, either con rod or main bearing housing. neither are good for engine or pocket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My advice would be to leave the loom on the engine until it's removed, and just disconnect the engine loom in the LH foot well.

 

Spun a shell means the crank has fused to a bearing shell and instead of the crank pin turning within the shell bearing, the bearing shell has turned within its own housing, either con rod or main bearing housing. neither are good for engine or pocket.

 

Thanks for the explaination. Appreciated. Won't pretend to fully understand other than it's serious and expensive.

 

Good luck CSA :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

plan is to bearings in it and get everuthing else checked. Still thinking of going all in with rods and pistons but dont know if it's worth is as I wont be aiming for more than 600 tops

 

Chris:

Could you explain why it's better to leave the harness on the engine?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Replace the rods with spun bearings, not worth trying to resize. Replace the block if a main has spun. Don't grind the crank, a good used one at standard size is far better.

 

has no one had good expierence with a grinded crank?

 

and why can't the block be reused if it a main bearing?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seeing as a good used crank is easy to get and inexpensive it's madness to weaken the crank, and if it's had heat input from a spun bearing it's probably no longer straight anyway. Then it'll need re balancing... To have a damaged main bearing(s) resized and line bored and then honed to size will cost about 10 times the price of a good used, none damaged block. Of course, you need to find out WHY this has happened in the first place, and remedy the cause, otherwise it's likely to recur.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Of course, you need to find out WHY this has happened in the first place, and remedy the cause, otherwise it's likely to recur.

 

this would worry the hell out of me, am i right in thinking this car has spun a shell twice on different blocks (one brand new from Toyota) what power/boost/rpm is it running

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this would worry the hell out of me, am i right in thinking this car has spun a shell twice on different blocks (one brand new from Toyota) what power/boost/rpm is it running

 

I believe the first engine gave up due to a combination of no oil cooler and a 8500rpm rev limit, it was good fun for the 5000 miles it lasted:d

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seeing as a good used crank is easy to get and inexpensive it's madness to weaken the crank, and if it's had heat input from a spun bearing it's probably no longer straight anyway. Then it'll need re balancing... To have a damaged main bearing(s) resized and line bored and then honed to size will cost about 10 times the price of a good used, none damaged block. Of course, you need to find out WHY this has happened in the first place, and remedy the cause, otherwise it's likely to recur.

 

unfortunately used cranks are very scarce overhere, but maybe someone on the forum can help me in that direction.

...anybody got the partnumber on the crank? could be interesting to see what Toyota would charge for a new unit

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.