csa Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Ok, I guess it's time to do a project thread. As some of you know the car spun a shell back in september and has been in the darkness of the garage since. I finally got around to install the lift in the garage last weekend, and so the job of removing the engine is beginning. Had a few hours to spend this evening so I got the following stuff done (in order of apperance): Removed headlamps Removed the front end Removed the hood http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/6738/img9161fc6.jpg Dained the water Removed breather system Removed cooler, fan and slam panels Removed IC piping with Bov and NOS kit Removed fuelrail and injectors Started removal of wiring harness http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/8458/img9162ri2.jpg http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/2052/img9163xl8.jpg As this is my first time I'm taking an engine out of any car, this thread will also help me keeping track of things when I'm assembling it again. (hence all the tape markings on the wires) So any recommendations would be appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chingy Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 good luck with the rebuild, what ur plans for her Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miko_supra Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 I dont know what "spun a shell" means? Other than that, nice to see your posting up plenty of pics, i like pictures Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j80leo Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Great work fella hope it all goes well for you;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesF Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 More pics! Looks interesting. Very sexy looking inlet manifold you've got! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Shane_ Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 would love to have a place where i could work on my car good luck with everything fella Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Good luck with the build Christian, look forward to updates on this one, love seeing pics of her. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marbleapple Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 I dont know what "spun a shell" means? Other than that, nice to see your posting up plenty of pics, i like pictures Good Luck! As above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 My advice would be to leave the loom on the engine until it's removed, and just disconnect the engine loom in the LH foot well. Spun a shell means the crank has fused to a bearing shell and instead of the crank pin turning within the shell bearing, the bearing shell has turned within its own housing, either con rod or main bearing housing. neither are good for engine or pocket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DannoSupra Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 oo thats nasty, shame! good luck with it all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marbleapple Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 My advice would be to leave the loom on the engine until it's removed, and just disconnect the engine loom in the LH foot well. Spun a shell means the crank has fused to a bearing shell and instead of the crank pin turning within the shell bearing, the bearing shell has turned within its own housing, either con rod or main bearing housing. neither are good for engine or pocket. Thanks for the explaination. Appreciated. Won't pretend to fully understand other than it's serious and expensive. Good luck CSA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csa Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 plan is to bearings in it and get everuthing else checked. Still thinking of going all in with rods and pistons but dont know if it's worth is as I wont be aiming for more than 600 tops Chris: Could you explain why it's better to leave the harness on the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 Removing the harness carefully with the engine in place is tricky and slow, removing it when the engine is on the stand is easy and fast. What bearing has it spun, a main, or a big end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csa Posted January 15, 2009 Author Share Posted January 15, 2009 thanks chris. will follow your advice :-) I'm not enitrely sure yet as nothing has been taken apart yet could be both but dunno yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 Replace the rods with spun bearings, not worth trying to resize. Replace the block if a main has spun. Don't grind the crank, a good used one at standard size is far better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquicktostop Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 New block, stock pistons, uprated rods and ARP bolts for a strong engine upto 600 would be enough IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazboy Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 Am I right thinking this car had a fully built engine including bottom end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 No, that one also spun a shell, i put a brand new stock bottom end from inchscape in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csa Posted January 16, 2009 Author Share Posted January 16, 2009 Replace the rods with spun bearings, not worth trying to resize. Replace the block if a main has spun. Don't grind the crank, a good used one at standard size is far better. has no one had good expierence with a grinded crank? and why can't the block be reused if it a main bearing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Seeing as a good used crank is easy to get and inexpensive it's madness to weaken the crank, and if it's had heat input from a spun bearing it's probably no longer straight anyway. Then it'll need re balancing... To have a damaged main bearing(s) resized and line bored and then honed to size will cost about 10 times the price of a good used, none damaged block. Of course, you need to find out WHY this has happened in the first place, and remedy the cause, otherwise it's likely to recur. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supradibbs Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Am I right thinking this car had a fully built engine including bottom end? That block is now fitted too my car:d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Of course, you need to find out WHY this has happened in the first place, and remedy the cause, otherwise it's likely to recur. this would worry the hell out of me, am i right in thinking this car has spun a shell twice on different blocks (one brand new from Toyota) what power/boost/rpm is it running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Good luck with this fella. Hope it all works out ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 this would worry the hell out of me, am i right in thinking this car has spun a shell twice on different blocks (one brand new from Toyota) what power/boost/rpm is it running I believe the first engine gave up due to a combination of no oil cooler and a 8500rpm rev limit, it was good fun for the 5000 miles it lasted:d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csa Posted January 17, 2009 Author Share Posted January 17, 2009 Seeing as a good used crank is easy to get and inexpensive it's madness to weaken the crank, and if it's had heat input from a spun bearing it's probably no longer straight anyway. Then it'll need re balancing... To have a damaged main bearing(s) resized and line bored and then honed to size will cost about 10 times the price of a good used, none damaged block. Of course, you need to find out WHY this has happened in the first place, and remedy the cause, otherwise it's likely to recur. unfortunately used cranks are very scarce overhere, but maybe someone on the forum can help me in that direction. ...anybody got the partnumber on the crank? could be interesting to see what Toyota would charge for a new unit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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