SupraJames Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 Well something just went as car was driving fine for like 25 mins, came up on boost and something just let go. Thanks Ian will go check that now Also checked all the fuses in the main engine bay fuse box and all ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraJames Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 (edited) OK injectors tested (used number 2) and get around 10 volts + on ignition and ground was fine as well when trying to start the car. As said all fuses in the main box are fine, unless there is other fuses I need to check ? Edited January 14, 2009 by SupraJames (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 Oh, ok, they are on the 12v not the 5v rail then 10v seems a bit low, and it should be steady as well, can you get a more exact reading? What voltage do you have across the battery terminals with everything off and with the ignition on and car mobilised? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraJames Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 Well my multimeter is not the most accurate, but am getting the same voltage reading, on the battery as the injector, 11 volts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 That seems a little low for the battery and will be going even lower when trying to start the car. Possibly try charging the battery for a while then try starting. If it then starts i would say either the battery is dying or the alternator isnt charging the battery properly. To check the alternator when it is started you can just put your multimeter accross the battery terminals and then let us know what voltage you get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraJames Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 But the car was running when it died, the battery is an Optima Yellow top. I will charge it up, but really dont think the battery or alternator is at fault here. It wont fire, im not expert but usually means one of 2 prob, fuel or spark. Fuel seems to be ok, what could be causing a lack of spark. As I said the car was driving fine for like 20 mins, came up on boost and then spluttered badly, loss of power, then died when I came to a stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 Well, that low voltage is odd, and certainly not right. The battery should have over 12v across its terminals, and over 14v when the engine is running. Can you disconnect the battery and measure the voltage again? That will let us see if there is a bad earth somewhere drawing current. Also, measure another known voltage source, make sure the meter is reading correctly Have you got any odd dimly glowing lights on the dash? Has the battery gone flat before? An earth fault can cause all sorts of problems - I once had one because the earth strap came off the intake manifold (while driving). The car wouldn't start afterwards and some stuff behaved very strangely. If the battery was low enough to stop the ignition system from charging I'd imagine the starter motor wouldn't even engage (you'd get the clicking of death) but the battery may still have enough grunt in it for that, only an earthing issue is mucking up sensors, ECU, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 Be careful charging the Optima Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraJames Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 Starter motor comes in fine, and engine turns over like usual, so there is enough CCA there, have stuck the battery on charge anyway and dont worry Rob I have a charger designed to charge Optimas , was not cheap but well worth it, brings batteries back from the dead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lui Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 I hope get it all fixed James mate soon as it will be nice to see you at Ace Cafe next week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 Has this car got an alarm on it? Have you checked if the plugs are sparking? My first check if it was here would be to pull a coil pack and check for a spark. If no spark, suspect the alarm installation first, especially if it's not the stock one, then the igniter pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraJames Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 Thanks Chris, the car currently has only the stock alarm fitted, no aftermarket bits at all. So I Can pull a coil pack, turn upside down, drop a spark plug in and see if it sparks..? Someone suggested the Igniter pack, as would be a bit uncommon to loose all the coil packs in one go. Im guessing the Igniter Pack is the black box by the right hand suspenion mount, next to the Injector pack..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 Pull out one coil pack and rest a plug on bare metal engine parts, or earth the bodies with bits of wire. Leave the original plugs in the engine, so there's no danger of anything going down an open plug hole. Any old plug of any type will do for testing. If there's no spark see why the coils aren't being energised. The igniter is on the LH inner wing. (Left and right are always described as from sitting in a front seat, not from as you stand in front of a car). Good luck, it's probably something simple, and very often something after market. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraJames Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 Thanks Chris I will try this tomorrow with an old plug and see how I get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 BTW, if the car still has cats a lot of cranking with the injectors firing, but no spark will fuel soak them which they won't like. once you get a spark (which I strongly suspect is your problem), you should fit a new set of plugs, or have the old ones properly blast cleaned, again, plugs hate being fuel soaked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraJames Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 Chris car is fully decatted. Got to see how much this is going to cost before I buy new plugs, not exactly flush at the mo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-NEMIE Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 fingers crossed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Konrad Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 I would check if fuel is getting into engine at all. The fact, that pump is working doesn't mean fuel is getting to injectors. Fuel filter can be clogged in no time and checking if fuel is going is quick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraJames Posted January 15, 2009 Author Share Posted January 15, 2009 (edited) Ok checked spark plugs as Chris described and we are getting a spark (checked plug 1 and 2), So that rules out a spark issue, spoke to Lee P and he suggested it could be the crank position sensor, so that next to check, if I can get under the car lol One other thing I did notice while hunting around was the lack of a hose on the following 2 sensors, first bottom of the MAP and second bottom of the turbo pressure sensor, surely there should be something on these..? Should they be connected together..? MAP Sensor Missing Pipe (purple hose in pic goes to FPR) Turbo Pressure Sensor Missing Pipe (blank nipple is underneath so cant see in the pic) Edited January 15, 2009 by SupraJames (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 The crank sensor must be signalling in order to get a spark. So it's fuel then? Check line pressure at the filter, or a cheap and nasty way is to check how much return flow you get at the tank return hose, pulled off the tank unit and extended into a jug. It should gush out. Maybe the pump's *uggered? There certainly should be a hose to the MAP sensor, from the pulsation damper in the plenum. I wouldn't use those awful silicone hoses, either. The fact they need tie-wraps to make them secure tells its own tale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraJames Posted January 15, 2009 Author Share Posted January 15, 2009 Dont suppose any has a pic of "pulsation damper in the plenum" so I know what I am looking for. Will check return pipe on tank after lunch. Thanks Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraJames Posted January 15, 2009 Author Share Posted January 15, 2009 Sorry for keep going on, just trying my best to get to the bottom of this issue. Could someone please tell me which is the return pipe I should be checking..? and if I take the hose off its not going to piss fuel everywhere is it..? Thanks again for all the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 (edited) One other thing I did notice while hunting around was the lack of a hose on the following 2 sensors, first bottom of the MAP and second bottom of the turbo pressure sensor, surely there should be something on these..? Should they be connected together..? The MAP and the turbo pressure sensor are one and the same thing, namely the black box in the second picture. From the pictures I can't tell what you think the MAP sensor is in the first picture. EDIT - deletey about MAP sensor fuelling, you've got a UK spec... the MAP missing a hose is probably just a fuel cut removal trick. -Ian Edited January 15, 2009 by Ian C (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 Could someone please tell me which is the return pipe I should be checking..? The short rubber hose pointing at 2 o clock with the silvery spring clamps. and if I take the hose off its not going to piss fuel everywhere is it..? Yes it will. Use bog roll or something to mop it up and stop being scared It'll blop out a few ml when you remove it, but I'd advise a longer bit of hose and a petrol can when you fire up the fuel system as that stuff motors out at quite a rate. -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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