Chris Wilson Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 One for you machinists out there please! I have umpteen plastic boxes of various end mills and slot drills that I have either been given over the years, bought at various cold and damp disreputable machinery auctions, or even (shock) bought new and that I have let become parted from their packs. What's the easiest way to measure their sizes, and how do you store them for easy access to a given size, on the cheap ? Thanks, I am in a tidy up and make work easier / more pleasant mood. It won't last long, don't worry! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt _Aero top_ Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 micrometer would be the easiest way . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRACIE_LOU Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 i agree or you could use a vernier unlesss they have been reground they will most likely be standard sizes either metric or imperial so vernier would do, you could use each to bore a hole into a wooden block and mark them up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt _Aero top_ Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 digital verniers can be bought for peanuts these days but i don't like them myself find the mircometer to be easier and abit more accurate . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 21, 2008 Author Share Posted December 21, 2008 I have micrometers and some digital verniers, but do these things actually cut to their measured diameter? I know I should know, but I don't... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt _Aero top_ Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 exactly how accurate you needing to machine chris ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 i agree or you could use a vernier unlesss they have been reground they will most likely be standard sizes either metric or imperial so vernier would do, you could use each to bore a hole into a wooden block and mark them up I wouldnt be using a piece of wood and most cutters wont cut size anyway, slot drills and end mills if they are 2 or 4 point are easy, just use a decent micrometer or vernier. If you have to machine a slot in something then you really should be using a cutter thats down a couple of sizes then open up the width to the size requierd. A 20mm diameter cutter wont cut a 20mm wide slot as its climb milling one face and conventionally milling the other, to get a decent finish and accuracy you need to rough out to say 19 mm then climb mill down both sides taking off the 0.5mm on each face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 If you have to create accurate sized holes then its either drill and ream, drill and bore, or on a modern cnc circular mill to size but again using a cutter thats smaller than the hole your trying to create. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 i agree or you could use a vernier unlesss they have been reground they will most likely be standard sizes either metric or imperial so vernier would do, you could use each to bore a hole into a wooden block and mark them up Sorry i missread your relpy, boring holes in a piece of wood to put the cutters in for storage is a good idea Thats how most of mine were kept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 22, 2008 Author Share Posted December 22, 2008 Thanks guys, that's all very helpful. I'll make a start soon and see if i can get them in some semblance of order, cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steb9780 Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 I wouldnt be using a piece of wood and most cutters wont cut size anyway, slot drills and end mills if they are 2 or 4 point are easy, just use a decent micrometer or vernier. If you have to machine a slot in something then you really should be using a cutter thats down a couple of sizes then open up the width to the size requierd. A 20mm diameter cutter wont cut a 20mm wide slot as its climb milling one face and conventionally milling the other, to get a decent finish and accuracy you need to rough out to say 19 mm then climb mill down both sides taking off the 0.5mm on each face. Good post, and obviously knows how to machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steb9780 Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Make sure you measure the tips as well Chris as cutters are usually relieved a little as they get further up the flutes. And as said in Dnk's post always try and climb mill for the best finish. If your machine is half sturdy with little backlash climb mill every material even steel. Which some people say you can't do......lol. If the machine has backlash don't climb mill tough materials. I have some milling manuals somewhere Chris I will see if I can dig them out and get them on the web. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Make sure you measure the tips as well Chris as cutters are usually relieved a little as they get further up the flutes. And as said in Dnk's post always try and climb mill for the best finish. If your machine is half sturdy with little backlash climb mill every material even steel. Which some people say you can't do......lol. If the machine has backlash don't climb mill tough materials. I have some milling manuals somewhere Chris I will see if I can dig them out and get them on the web. When i did my engineering apprenticeship climb milling was a no no was while ago though As steb said backlash is the problem when climb milling, a tip on any older milling machine is to use the ends of the table if you can, there will be less wear in the leadscrew as everyone usually plonks a job or vice slap bang in the middle, so less backlash. Also ease the table locks on slightly as that'll help reduce the pull of the cutter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Good post, and obviously knows how to machine. Cheers, yes ive done my share mainly on cnc machining centers but can still wind the handles as they say lol I designed and made a few of these engine covers, sorry lame excuse to post a picture, ignore the red arrows lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steb9780 Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Cheers, yes ive done my share mainly on cnc machining centers but can still wind the handles as they say lol I designed and made a few of these engine covers, sorry lame excuse to post a picture, ignore the red arrows lol Yeah I know the cam cover mate. I was on with making one but never got it finished...........lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Yeah I know the cam cover mate. I was on with making one but never got it finished...........lol Get it finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steb9780 Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Get it finished Haha, not got the time at the moment mate. We are stacked out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Haha, not got the time at the moment mate. We are stacked out. Glad to hear it, my brothers cnc m/c shop is flat out as well, theres still a bit of engineering left in this country Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 22, 2008 Author Share Posted December 22, 2008 Thanks for the ongoing discussion. I have been very tempted to get a basic CNC capable mill for a while, I like the ability to do things like drilling disc bells and lightening heavy bits of material easily, am I mad, not yet being proficient on a manual machine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steb9780 Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Thanks for the ongoing discussion. I have been very tempted to get a basic CNC capable mill for a while, I like the ability to do things like drilling disc bells and lightening heavy bits of material easily, am I mad, not yet being proficient on a manual machine? No not at all Chris. Once you have one to play with you will pick it up. I will come give you lessons.........lol You want to think of what programming language you are going to use. Some are aimed more at programmers doing it from a PC. You need something that is user friendly. I would think either Heidenhain or Mazatrol would be good. I use Heidenhain at work and find it easy, but I hear that the Mazaks at work are pretty user friendly for programming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 22, 2008 Author Share Posted December 22, 2008 What's an XYZ machine like, and how useful? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steb9780 Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 I gather you mean a three axis machine? In theory you can do almost anything on one, what you do want is a machine that is capable of 3-axis moves, then you can scan/model profiles etc.. Thats all our bridgeport is. It does have a 4th axis that you can load on but we don't use it anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steb9780 Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 I have found the manual for our Bridgeport at work. Its an old heidenhain cabinet but its not bloated like some of the newer ones. It gives examples of programming in there and how to enter it into the machine. http://filebase.heidenhain.de/doku/oma_controls/CD1/tnc/2500b/gb/thb2500.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bromy Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Think Chris means xyz machine tool company, I have programmed mazatrol for the last eight years and as steb says it is very easy to pick up but mazaks are quite expensive, I have my hands on a 5 axis at the moment... very trick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 22, 2008 Author Share Posted December 22, 2008 Yes, something like a second hand one of these, or its smaller cousin, the 1500 model. http://www.xyzmachinetools.com/index.cfm/machinetools/Products.Details/product_id/74/subject/xyz_emx_2000_turret_mill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.