TLicense Engine Build

[alaing]

This is great! looking forward to seeing the finnished article. Thanks

[SteveR]

Because he has the Toyota engine manual... Seriously though, building an engine may seem like an impossibly hard technical thing, but if you take your time, read up (hence the Toyota manual), pay attention to the details and not skip things, and have a clean build area and the correct tools it's not that big a deal. It's just nuts and bolts at the end of the day.

 

What Tony does is do everything right, even if it takes more effort and time, and that's the key.

 

Absolutely, having the workshop manual is an absolute bare minimum requirement. Luckily throughout my working career I've been involved in an industry that does a lot of this kind of work - taking our time and making sure things are done as correctly as is possible.

The first engine I built was a an old 2.2 Cossie lump from an S1 Lotus Espirit with a guy who previously had worked for Cossie's building the F1 engines. He taught me a lot of little tricks and bits and bobs, but to be honest this is extremely straight forward in comparison, and as Simon says, if you just strictly and anally follow the technical manuals and instructions that come with the parts you order, you'll really struggle to go wrong.

 

Hope that helps!

Fair play but I still take my hat off to you and others who can do this but aren't necessarily employed doing that sort of work directly. I can read a manual but I think you're still being too kind on the ability required to carry out what you're doing Tony; I don't think I have enough knowledge to understand what tolerances matter and exactly why you have to be +/-0.01mm accurate for X but can be 'just' +/-0.1mm accurate on Y. The intricate details are completely fascinating, and also scary!

[TLicense]

Right, time for a massively overdue update.

 

The last time I posted I had fitted the pistons but the con-rods needed to be bolted up.

 

The con-rod main cap bolts are the most highly stressed fastener in the entire engine. The piston has approximately 7000N of force on it at the top end and about 12000N in the opposite direction at the bottom so the fasteners that hold it all together get quite a pounding. As a result it's absolutely imperative that the fasteners are of good quality and are torqued as per the manufacturers specifications.

The most accurate way of setting a torque is by measuring how much the bolt stretches as it's done up. The problem with using a torque wrench is that they are known to drift over time and can be as much as 10 - 20% out without you ever knowing.

 

So how do you measure the bolt stretch? Simple, you use a bolt stretch indicator! This is basically a gauge that has a sprung loaded DTI that fits into the dimple of one end of the bolt, and a 'G' shaped clamp that holds the DTI and locates into the dimple in the other end of the bolt. I didn't get a pic of the one I got, but it's pretty much the same as this:-

 

Right, so the piston is in, pull the con-rod down a bit then fit the con-rod big end shell. Make sure you locate the tabs on the shell into the chamfers on the con-rod. Once fitted, apply some lube to the bearing shell and pull the con-rod down until it locates onto the crank shaft pin.:-

 

Now apply some assembly lube to the shell and fit the con-rod bearing cap. Ensure you get the orientation of the cap the right way. The tabs on the two halves should go together.:-

 

Now apply the lube to the fixing bolt threads and under the head of the bolt and install them. Now break out your bolt stretch gauge. To fit the gauge you'll need to rotate the crankshaft until you get the con-rod your working on near the bottom of it's stroke, but not totally. (Unfortunately I didn't get a pic, but you'll soon see what I mean).

Fit the gauge to the bolt and zero the dial:-

 

Now without bashing the gauge (you don't want to have to re-zero it) and tighten the bolts. My rods were supplied with CARR 3/8 bolts which should be stretched to between 0.005 and 0.007 of an inch. This should equate to no more than 88Nm. I tightened mine in 3 steps to make sure I didn't overtighten them.:-

 

Then tighten the other bolt on that rod in the same manner. Then move onto the next rod and go through the process again.:-

 

 

Now that's the bottom end pretty much done:-

 

 

[paul mac]

great stuff Tony, you could allways post me your torque wrench and i'll check it on our callibrators at work , saying that the dial gauge is a lot more accurate

[Wez]

Good stuff Tony, keep it coming

[TLicense]

Oh one thing I forgot to add before signing the bottom end of the block, you need to check the thrust clearance. It should be between 0.250 and 0.402mm.

 

 

So as long as that's in check (which if you've followed everything so far it should be!) then the next job is to fit the rear oil seal retainer.

First of all you need to fit the oil seal into the retainer. Place the oil seal into the retainer and gently tap around the edges until it's flush with the top of the retainer.

 

 

 

Before you install the retainer, you need to apply some FIPG (Form In Place Gasket) or sealant to the groove of the retainer. I couldn't get any pictures of this as once it's applied you've only got a couple of minutes to fit it before it cures.

Put a little MP grease around the inner lip of the seal to help it slide over the end of the crankshaft and fit the retainer. Torque the 6 bolts up to 5.9Nm.

 

 

Next it's time to fit the oil pump. First of all fit the two o'rings.

 

 

You then need to apply FIPG to the mating face of the oil pump groove. You can see the groove here:-

 

 

 

 

 

Make sure you go around the inside of the bolt holes! Again as you only have a couple of minutes before the FIPG goes off, I didn't get any pics of it applied.

Fit the oil pump using the 9 bolts. Torque them up to 21Nm.

 

[TLicense]

Next fit the infamous crankshaft front oil seal. The correct position of it is so that the face of the oil seal is flush with the oil pump body edge. Apply a little MP grease to the inside of the seal before fitting.

 

 

To make sure you haven't pushed it on too far, you can check by making sure the drain hole behind it is still clear. I did this by inserting a long scribe into the drain hole.

 

 

 

You can see where the scribe is protruding behind where the seal will go:-

 

 

Next fit the no.1 oil pan or upper sump. There's an O'ring you need to fit, but I didn't get a picture of it.

Again you need to use FIPG along the groove in th mating face of the sump. Make sure you seal along the inside of the bolts that are external to the sump and the inside of the bolts that are internal to the sump.

 

 

 

There are 22 bolts in two sizes. 12mm head and 14mm head. The 12mm Head is torqued to 12Nm, the 14mm head bolts are torqued to 39Nm.

 

 

[TLicense]

Next fit the oil pan baffle plate. There's 5 bolts and 2 nuts. Torque them up to 8.8Nm

 

 

Unfortunately I seem to have lost a load of photo's somewhere of the oil strainer and lower sump pan installation. Not to worry as it's not particularly exciting. There's 3 nuts for the oil strainer. Make sure that you fit a gasket on the feed (the one pic I do have!):-

 

 

Next fit the No.2 oil pan, or lower sump. Again this if fitted using FIPG. The same as before, run the FIPG along the groove and make sure you go on the inside of the bolt holes. Then fit the oil pan using the 16 bolts and 2 nuts. They're torqued to 8.8Nm.

 

Next fit the oil level sensor. Make sure you fit a new O'ring:-

 

 

 

 

Feed the sensor through the hole in the sump and fasten using the four bolts. Torque them to 5.4Nm.

 

[TLicense]

Right next it's the water pump.

Here's a pic of it with the water inlet fitted. Don't worry I took it off and cleaned the inlet up before installing it.

 

 

If you're fitting a new pump, don't forget to transfer over this bracket:-

 

 

Here is where the thermostat goes:-

 

 

If you look in here you can see the vanes of the pump:-

 

 

First fit the O'ring to the block:-

 

 

Then install the water pump to the block using the 6 bolts. There are 2 sizes of bolts, 2 of them have shoulders to help locate the pump:-

 

 

The two shoulder bolts go in the holes furthest to the left on both the upper and lower rows, fit these first. Torque all the bolts to 21Nm:-

 

 

As you can see in that pic, I'd already fitted the no.1 water bypass pipe. Fit 2 new O'rings and use wipe a little soapy water around the lower O'ring before fitting it into the water pump:-

 

 

 

Next fit the no.2 water bypass pipe:-

 

 

Fit a gasket to the the pump and then fit the pipe using the two nuts. Tighten them to 21Nm.:-

 

 

Fit the water pipe to the block using the bolt on either side of the block:-

 

 

 

 

As my turbo's don't aren't water cooled, I have no need for the no.3 turbo water hose feed on the water pump. As such I decided to blank it off using a plug:-

 

 

 

I removed the feed from the pump and fitted the plug flush with the pump:-

 

 

 

A lot tidier than a piece of rubber hose with a bolt and jubilee clip.

[TLicense]

Next fit the thermostat. I tested mine by putting it in a saucepan and boiling the water, I checked the temperature using a thermocouple. It opened at 89 degrees.

 

 

Note the "jiggle valve". This should be lined up with the tab on the water inlet pipe:-

 

 

 

 

See I said I'd cleaned it up :-

 

Fit the thermostat and inlet pipe to the water pump using the 2 nuts. Torque them to 21Nm.

 

 

 

And with that it's time to turn our attention to the top end.

[TLicense]

I sent my head to a local machine shop to be cleaned up and whilst it was there they spotted that the mating face was out of flat by 0.03mm. The tolerance is +/- 0.10mm but it was only £30 to get it skimmed flat, so I got them to do that:-

 

 

 

Looks nice, clean and all good doesn't it? Except, hold on what's this? Check out the size of the cracks between the spark plug holes and the exhaust valve seats!

 

 

 

This has probably been caused by overtightening the spark plugs, and then the head getting hot. It may have been possible to have it welded up, but I would be concerned about it failing. Alternatively I could have just left it, but the sharp edges of the cracks would propogate detonation. So I decided to get a new head from Toyota:-

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There's a lot of little details on the head that I hadn't spotted before, these holes are normal:-

 

 

 

Here's a shot into the exhaust port. You can see the valve guide boss:-

 

 

And here's a shot of the inlet port:-

 

 

The only thing the cylinder head comes with is the heater union:-

 

[Kev.O]

Great write up Tony. The pictures are perfectly clear. Do you have any info on where I could get the blanking plug for the water pump from?

[Jurgen-Jm-Imports]

out of interest how much was the head ?

[Wez]

Great work as usual mate, cant be far off now

[TLicense]

Great write up Tony. The pictures are perfectly clear. Do you have any info on where I could get the blanking plug for the water pump from?

 

pm'd

[TLicense]

out of interest how much was the head ?

 

I think it worked out at £1240 from Steve Manley. Cheaper than I could get from anywhere else and available in two days.

[TLicense]

Great work as usual mate, cant be far off now

 

Still lots more to write up, but no, it's pretty much finished now and ready to go in...

[absz]

Will you be measuring the chamber volume on the new head ? also are you fitting over size valves on this or keeping it standard. ?

[TLicense]

Yes, and yes. All to come mate... all to come!

[Steve]

Another excellent write up Tony

[AlexJames]

[alaing]

This is the best thread ever!!! Do u think when its done we can have it edited so its with out the comments and just the engine rebuild? Like a how to.

[JohnHandy]

Tony any further update mate?

 

loving your work.

[Miguel]

Great write up Tony:)

 

I need to replace my bore gauge, where did you get yours from?

[TLicense]

Hi Mig,

 

Sorry I got your pm and had written a reply, but hadn't actually sent it as I was trying to remember where I got it from, as it was a fair few years ago. I can't remember exactly but this would be similar:-

 

http://www.etoolcart.com/cylinderboregagextenderelectronic.aspx

 

Hopefully I'll get some time to sit down and do a large up-date this evening. The project is nearly complete so I've got lots to write about.

 

Cheers!

 

Tony