TLicense Engine Build

[Miguel]

No worries Tony, I know your a very busy man

 

Thanks for the link. That's more of a palatable price than replacing my old one like for like:blink:

 

Very much looking forward to the updates. Nice attention to detail:cool:

[Ric]

good cant wait

[Steve]

Moved to 'Projects Section'

 

Keep up the great work Tony

[Krister]

Your posts are most informative.. I love reading your "how to's".. Makes me feel I could build my engine, but I think I'll leave it to a professional

[Andy-No-Knee]

How is this going Tony??

 

I need to see how you assemble the head and fit the cams etc as I'm about to fit new cams to mine and want to see the way you do it. (I have see the other thread of yours about fitting the stem oil seals....very helpful!!)

[TLicense]

Sorry for the delays. I've been really busy trying to get this finished, that I've not had much of a chance to do any write-up's.

I'll sit down this evening and go through the head stuff which is the next thing to do anyway.

Cheers!

[adrianstokes]

Love the writeup, just one quick typo I noticed:

 

On post #57 you say: "There are 22 bolts in two sizes. 12mm head and 14mm head. The 12mm Head is torqued to 12Nm, the 14mm head bolts are torqued to 39Nm."

 

It should read: "There are 22 bolts in two sizes. 12mm head and 14mm head. The 12mm Head is torqued to 21Nm, the 14mm head bolts are torqued to 39Nm."

 

Just thought I'd mention it, in case anyone follows the guide without cross referencing the manual .

 

Thanks for the time and effort that has gone into this .

 

Regards,

Adrian

Edited August 20, 2009 by adrianstokes (see edit history)

[TLicense]

Good spot Adrian, cheers!

 

Right anyway, time for the promised update.

 

First job is to give the cylinder head a good clean. Even though mine is brand new I still cleaned it through.

Once it's clean, you can then inspect the flatness of the mating surfaces. Use the same method as used for inspecting the deck face of the cylinder block. The maximum permissible warpage on the cylinder block mating face, and the inlet and exhaust manifold mating faces is 0.1mm.

 

Once you're sure that the head is in good order and that there are no cracks in it, then it's time to look at the valves.

 

Measure the length of the valves, the inlet valve should be between 98.29 and 98.79mm and the exhaust should be between 98.84 and 99.34mm.

 

Also measure the margin thickness. This is the non-angled part at the bottom of the valve you can see here, it should be between 0.8 and 1.2mm.

 

 

One thing to note at this stage, as it almost caught me out, is that if you are fitting oversized valves, then you'll need to have the valve seats in the head machined. If you don't, the valve will be held too far down meaning you'll struggle to get a valve shim large enough to give you the correct valve clearance, and additionally it could potentially turn your engine into an interference one.

 

So the next job is the dreaded valve lapping. The idea of this is get a gas tight seal between the valve and the valve seat.

This is done by applying a grinding paste to the valve face and then installing it into the cylinder head.

 

 

Then using a lapping stick stuck to the valve, you spin the valve grinding the paste into the valve seat.

 

 

 

Don't go too mad at it to start with, if you try a little paste and give it about 30 seconds of grinding then clean off the paste from the valve, you should be able to see a dull grey are on the face. This is where the valve is being lapped to the seat. The idea is to achieve the dull grey surface 360 degrees around the valve, so re-apply the some paste and keep going until you've got the full 360 degrees. The lapped area should sit in the middle of the valve face and be between 1 and 1.4mm thick on the inlet valve and 1.2 to 1.6mm thick on the exhaust valve.

If the lapped area is not appearing in the middle of the valve face, then it means your valve seats are not cut at the correct angles, so you'll need to take the head to have the seats cut.

 

Once you've done the first valve, mark it with a permanent marker / paint pen to show its position and then move onto the next valve until all 24 are done:-

 

 

Once the valves are all lapped in, we can assemble the valve train.

First of all fit the spring seats. I'm fitting a Ferrea valve train set which includes dual springs which have their own spring seats. However they still use the stock spring seats too, so fit the stock seat, then the Ferrea one if using their kit:-

 

 

 

 

Now the valve stem seals. Install them onto the end of the valve guides using valve stem seal pliers. Don't bother trying to bodge putting them on with any other tools and you'll struggle to get them on square. To help them fit on, I dipped them into some fresh engine oil before fitting them:-

 

 

[TLicense]

Next fit the first valve. Put a little assembly oil on the valve stem tip to help it to slide past the seal:-

 

 

Next fit the valve spring over the top of the valve stem and valve guide:-

 

 

Then fit the retainer:-

 

 

Then using a valve spring compressor, compress the springs and fit the valve locks. Unfortunately I didn't get a good picture of this process. However as you need to get both sides of the cylinder head with the valve compressor, I recommend sitting the cylinder head between a couple of stools. Most compressors are adjustable for different size cylinder heads. I'm not a particularly big chap, so squeezing the springs up takes quite a bit of effort. I fitted some sticky backed foam to the compressor tool where it held against the valve face, just to prevent it from damaging it. The valve locks can be a bit of a faff to fit but with some perseverance and a small magnetic prodding tool, you should be able to get them to drop in. :-

 

 

 

If anyone wants a photo of the compressor or any further info on the process, give me a shout and I'll go into it a bit deeper, but to be fair, if you're doing the job it's fairly self explanatory.

 

Once you've done, go through each of the valves ensuring that you fit each valve into the position it was lapped into. Give each valve stem tip a light tap with a plastic hammer to ensure that the valve locks are fully fitted.

 

Before installing the buckets and shims, I measured each shim with a micrometer and labelled it up so that it when the camshafts were fitted and I was measuring the shim clearance I'd be able to work out what size shims I needed if any. Use a magnet to pull the shims out of the buckets if you're struggling. When you go to fit the buckets apply some oil to the sides:-

 

Edited August 20, 2009 by TLicense (see edit history)

[TLicense]

Right now for an interesting bit.

Measuring the volume of the combustion chamber. This is done to help work out the compression ratio and is done by using a process commonly known as "CC'ing". It basically envolves pouring a known volume of fluid into the combustion chamber and comparing that to the swept volume (the volume given by the cylinder bore area times the stroke)

 

Obviously calculating the swept volume if fairly easy. The stock stroke is 86mm, and my bore is nominally 86.5mm, which are easy known values.

 

The combustion chamber volume is the sum of the cylinder head volume, the volume due to the head gasket thickness, the volume due to the shape of the piston and the volume due to the deck clearance of the piston.

 

So the first thing to measure is the cylinder head volume. For this you'll need a burette. I really struggled to find them for sale in the UK, so ordered one from Jegs.com in the states. They're not cheap by any means, but it's almost and impossible task with one.

 

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Buret-Stand-Kit/751018/10002/-1

 

After fitting a set of spark plugs to the head, I filled the burette up to the zero mark with lamp oil (a light paraffin or kerosene would be ideal) and then fitted the perspex card over the cylinder head combustion chamber. To give a good seal between the perspex and the head, I used a small amount of grease smeared onto the perspex.

Then position the petcock over the hole in the perspex card and pour the fluid into the cylinder head combustion chamber. As the volume starts to fill you'll see a bubble form. You need to get rid of this bubble by gently lifting the cylinder head until the bubble centres around the hole in the perspex. Eventually the fluid will completely fill the cylinder head combustion chamber.

 

 

Read off the value on the burette, and this will tell you what the volume of the cylinder head combustion chamber is! Mine were about 44.7mm. Record them all individually as you'll need them later. :-

 

 

When you go to remove the perspex, be careful. The fluid inside is going to go everywhere. Lots and lots of paper towel will come in handy here!

 

Now you need to do the same process to the cylinder block. To do this you need to move the piston until it's about an inch or so below the deck. Then smear a small amount of grease around the cylinder wall above the piston. This will stop the measuring fluid from seeping past the piston rings. Then move the piston until it's at T.D.C use a dial gauge to ensure it's fully at T.D.C.

 

 

 

Now move the piston down a set amount. I moved it down 5mm, make sure you do this accurately and record the value as again you'll need it later:-

 

 

Now do the same to the block as you've just done to the head. Fit the perspex plate to the block deck and then pour in the fluid and read how much fluid you've poured in:-

 

 

 

The volume of my piston volume was approximately 43.4 cc's.

[TLicense]

Right,

 

So now you've got all the volumes, you need to know what the volume of the head gasket bore is. My head gasket when compressed is 1.4mm so multiply that by the area of the bore. Mine came out at about 8.2cc's.

 

Now work out the volume of the cylinder block. This is done by multiplying the bore area by the stroke - the dimension you moved the piston down by before measuring the piston volume. Mine worked out at about 476cc's.

 

So the combustion chamber volume is calculated by adding the cylinder block volume to the piston volume and then subtracting the swept volume. Then add the cylinder head volume and the gasket volume. Mine worked out at about 67.5cc's.

 

Now you have the combustion chamber volume, the compression ratio is just the combustion volume + the swept volume / combustion volume. Mine worked out at 8.49:1, which is perfect for the pistons I ordered.

If you have any large variations in your compression ratio's between the cylinders, then you'll need to take the cylinder head to have the smallest volume machined out to the largest volume.

 

And that's all there is to the secret art of CC'ing!

[Luxluc]

Wow ... amazing writing ... and work of course

[Guest lexiconby]

hi Tony,

 

just joined the site and have had a wonderful time reading about your progress.

 

was wondering if maybe unscrewing the sparkplug from underneath might help drain the lamp oil easier (sort of like an oil change) or use a small pump (ones that comes from pump hand lotions to pump out enough lamp oil so that u can at least lift perspex without a major spill.

 

i've got about 174,000 miles or about 280,000 km on my 1997 supra non-turbo and am considering taking the engine out eventually to convert it to an TT spec.

[Miguel]

Tony, I thought I would show the maths behind your excellent CC’ing write up as it may make it clearer to some. I’ve also attached an XLS spreadsheet to the end for the people that can’t be bothered to dig the calculator out Feel free to delete my post should you feel it’s getting in the way

So now you've got all the volumes, you need to know what the volume of the head gasket bore is. My head gasket when compressed is 1.4mm so multiply that by the area of the bore. Mine came out at

about 8.2cc's.[/Quote]

 

((B1/10/2)^2)*3.1416*(B2/10) = Gasket Volume.

 

Assuming a gasket diameter of 87mm for B1 and a gasket thickness of 1.4mm for B2

 

((87÷10÷2)^2)x3.1416x(1.4÷10) = 8.3cc Gasket volume (HGv)

 

Now work out the volume of the cylinder block. This is done by multiplying the bore area by the stroke - the dimension you moved the piston down by before measuring the piston volume. Mine worked out at about 476cc's.[/Quote]

 

((B1/10/2)^2)*3.1416*(B2/10)

 

Again, the same formula as above but with different values for B1 and B2. B1 would be the size of the bore, in this case 86.5mm. B2 would be the length of the stroke minus the depth you used to measure the piston volume. In Tony’s case 86mm - 5mm = 81mm.

 

((86.5÷10÷2)^2)x3.1416x(81÷10) = 476cc Cylinder Volume (CBv)

 

So the combustion chamber volume is calculated by adding the cylinder block volume to the piston volume and then subtracting the swept volume. Then add the cylinder head volume and the gasket volume. Mine worked out at about 67.5cc's.[/Quote]

 

Lets get the swept volume first (Sv). Again, as above, it uses the same formula. ((B1/10/2)^2)*3.1416*(B2/10)

This time B1 being Tony’s bore of 86.5mm, and B2 being the FULL stroke of 86mm.

 

((86.5÷10÷2)^2)*3.1416*(86÷10) = 505cc Swept volume (Sv)

 

This is what we have so far:

 

Cylinder Block volume (CBv) 476cc

Piston Volume (Pv) 43.4cc

Swept Volume (Sv) 505cc

Cylinder Head volume (CHv) 44.7cc

Head Gasket volume (HGv) 8.3cc

 

Now it gets simpler. CBv+Pv-Sv+CHv+HGv = Combustion chamber volume (CCv)

 

476+43.4-505+44.7+8.3= 67.4.cc (CCv)

 

 

Now you have the combustion chamber volume, the compression ratio is just the combustion volume + the swept volume / combustion volume. [/Quote]

 

The home stretch. CCv+Sv÷CCv = CR

 

67.4+505÷67.4 = 8.49:1 Compression Ratio.

 

 

Voila! You’re done!

 

Mine worked out at 8.49:1, which is perfect for the pistons I ordered. 

If you have any large variations in your compression ratio's between the cylinders, then you'll need to take the cylinder head to have the smallest volume machined out to the largest volume.

 

And that's all there is to the secret art of CC'ing! [/Quote]

 

Attached XLS spreadsheet below:

CompCalc.xls

Edited September 6, 2009 by Miguel (see edit history)

[Kranz]

Tony, this is excellent

 

This is sure going to be a great engine when its done.

 

Regarding pushing the valves in past the valve seals, doesn't the seal come with a clear plastic 'top hat' for the valve stem to protect the seal lip?

I've seen VW ones come with a 'top hat' in the seal that the top of the stem locates in then the valve pushes through the seal and the 'top hat' removed.

[TLicense]

was wondering if maybe unscrewing the sparkplug from underneath might help drain the lamp oil easier

 

Good call! that would work well. If only I had thought of that before pouring lamp oil all over the floor!

 

Tony, I thought I would show the maths behind your excellent CC’ing write up as it may make it clearer to some.

 

Cheers Mig, I was struggling to think of a clear way to communicate it all. Thanks for clearing it all up!

 

doesn't the seal come with a clear plastic 'top hat' for the valve stem to protect the seal lip?

 

I've seen the little top hats before when I was working on a Fiat engine I think it was... (let's just put those days behind us!!! )

But no, neither the Ferrea or the stock Toyota seals come with anything like that. It's not really a problem though, just a smidgeon of lube on the end and it pops in there like a.... well like something that would pop in somewhere with the application of lube!

 

Cheers for your input guys!

[paul mac]

good write up Tony, with regard to the burette and probably more for other peoples reference rather than yours, i got mine off this guy on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Burette-compression-ratio-100cc-Vol-Turbo-Supercharger_W0QQitemZ140310706539QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item20ab2b796b&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 £40 delivered

[JohnHandy]

Tony any more updates mate?

[Andy-No-Knee]

Can I put a request in for a spesific update???

 

Can you show in real detail how you measure the shim gap and swap/change shim after the cam shafts are put in???

 

Ta muchly!!!

[Ryan.G]

Did i hear a running engine

[Steve]

Did i hear a running engine

 

Now tell him to get on with mine

[JohnHandy]

Tony don't want to hassel mate but cant wait for the rest of this write up it is realy inspiering.

 

Quick question though if your fitting billit main caps is ther any diference in fitting and would you still use OEM bearings?

 

Thanks

[dude]

Tony don't want to hassel mate but cant wait for the rest of this write up it is realy inspiering.

 

Quick question though if your fitting billit main caps is ther any diference in fitting and would you still use OEM bearings?

 

Thanks

 

If your going to the expense/hassle of billets I would prob fit ACL race bearings as a min or even better some black metal bearings.

[JohnHandy]

If your going to the expense/hassle of billets I would prob fit ACL race bearings as a min or even better some black metal bearings.

 

Got you dude thanks dose this affect the thrust washer? ie do you need an aftermarket one insted of OEM?

[TLicense]

Hi John,

 

Sorry if this is very very late in replying, but no you shouldn't need an aftermarket thrust washer. The billet main caps will still need to fit the crankshaft pins, so will need to be the same width as stock, so the stock thrust washers should still work.

 

 

As far as the engine build thread, I'll get on with the rest this week and get it finished