Kev.O Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Well done Ryan (and the Autotec boys) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnd-mkiv Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Well done mate, great progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luxluc Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Great work Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Class One Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Looking good Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Walker Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Haha, love it and amazed to see it moving so soon, superb job Ryan. The car is awesome on so many levels Couldn't agree more. What pedro said is interesting, I've never seen a main loop inside the front seats before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little num Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 We going to see this at Llandow then ryan, i hope its done for then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steady_dave Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Awesome, stunningly awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorin Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Can't wait to see it used in anger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted June 16, 2009 Author Share Posted June 16, 2009 Ryan, don't take this as critisism sir but are you sure its ok for the main hoop of your roll cage to be quite so close AND in front of your seats? All the cage is going to be padded with FIA padding for the side support but the main hoop is actually directly above my head. It was one reason we couldn't put the engine back any further because my head would actually be behind the hoop. Its a Sacrifice of moving the engine back unfortunatly. Awesome, are you going to add a strut brace? Yup We going to see this at Llandow then ryan, i hope its done for then. Maybe Llandow next year lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miles Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 well done buddy looking awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky49 Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Looks really good ryan Look forward to seeing it finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 In my experience, one item that people often get "wrong" is the balance bar. As this component is central to the overall efficiency, and performance of the braking system, listed below are a few pointers that should help you to set up, and adjust the balance bar, therefore obtaining maximum benefit and optimum performance from your brake system. The side to side end float of the balance bar within its housing should be approximately 2mm. To obtain this clearance, one of the clevises should be screwed on or off the bar as required. Push rod adjustment: This must be carried out with the brake system bled, and the pads fitted. The object of this exercise is to ensure that the balance bar lies square within its housing, and at 90 degrees to the master cylinders when the pedal is depressed. To obtain this setting adjust the pushrod lengths, which normally means the front rod being 6 to 10mm longer than the rear. Then with a normal load applied to the pedal, the push rods should appear the same length, and the balance bar square to the pedal, The above settings are very important, and once set should not be disturbed. One other important point, when carrying out the above adjustments it is essential that the master cylinder pistons return fully, with the push rods back against their retaining washers. Check that there is no interference on the pedal such as stoplight switch that prevents the master cylinders coming fully off. Setting the brake balance: Before this can be done it will be necessary to bed in the pads and get the brakes up to a normal operating temperature Brake balance can vary from driver to driver, but for tarmac rallying or circuit use most drivers prefer to have a slight bias towards the front. This is best achieved by carrying out a series of stops (high speed is not necessary). Remember, adjusting the master cylinder push rods does not adjust the brake balance!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gander Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 looking good. must be a buzz to drive it for the first time. must be a pain to change the plugs though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 In my experience, one item that people often get "wrong" is the balance bar. As this component is central to the overall efficiency, and performance of the braking system, listed below are a few pointers that should help you to set up, and adjust the balance bar, therefore obtaining maximum benefit and optimum performance from your brake system. The side to side end float of the balance bar within its housing should be approximately 2mm. To obtain this clearance, one of the clevises should be screwed on or off the bar as required. Push rod adjustment: This must be carried out with the brake system bled, and the pads fitted. The object of this exercise is to ensure that the balance bar lies square within its housing, and at 90 degrees to the master cylinders when the pedal is depressed. To obtain this setting adjust the pushrod lengths, which normally means the front rod being 6 to 10mm longer than the rear. Then with a normal load applied to the pedal, the push rods should appear the same length, and the balance bar square to the pedal, The above settings are very important, and once set should not be disturbed. One other important point, when carrying out the above adjustments it is essential that the master cylinder pistons return fully, with the push rods back against their retaining washers. Check that there is no interference on the pedal such as stoplight switch that prevents the master cylinders coming fully off. Setting the brake balance: Before this can be done it will be necessary to bed in the pads and get the brakes up to a normal operating temperature Brake balance can vary from driver to driver, but for tarmac rallying or circuit use most drivers prefer to have a slight bias towards the front. This is best achieved by carrying out a series of stops (high speed is not necessary). Remember, adjusting the master cylinder push rods does not adjust the brake balance!!! Thanks Chris. Im getting there with this pedalbox!! Many thanks for all the advise over the last week with it chap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Supra2 Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 In my experience, one item that people often get "wrong" is the balance bar. As this component is central to the overall efficiency, and performance of the braking system, listed below are a few pointers that should help you to set up, and adjust the balance bar, therefore obtaining maximum benefit and optimum performance from your brake system. The side to side end float of the balance bar within its housing should be approximately 2mm. To obtain this clearance, one of the clevises should be screwed on or off the bar as required. Push rod adjustment: This must be carried out with the brake system bled, and the pads fitted. The object of this exercise is to ensure that the balance bar lies square within its housing, and at 90 degrees to the master cylinders when the pedal is depressed. To obtain this setting adjust the pushrod lengths, which normally means the front rod being 6 to 10mm longer than the rear. Then with a normal load applied to the pedal, the push rods should appear the same length, and the balance bar square to the pedal, The above settings are very important, and once set should not be disturbed. One other important point, when carrying out the above adjustments it is essential that the master cylinder pistons return fully, with the push rods back against their retaining washers. Check that there is no interference on the pedal such as stoplight switch that prevents the master cylinders coming fully off. Setting the brake balance: Before this can be done it will be necessary to bed in the pads and get the brakes up to a normal operating temperature Brake balance can vary from driver to driver, but for tarmac rallying or circuit use most drivers prefer to have a slight bias towards the front. This is best achieved by carrying out a series of stops (high speed is not necessary). Remember, adjusting the master cylinder push rods does not adjust the brake balance!!! which text book you get that information from chris none the less, useful though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absz Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 which text book you get that information from chris none the less, useful though. Its the hardrive in his head:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Supra2 Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 Its the hardrive in his head:) i'm sure it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 Nice work Ryan. I can't wait to see how she goes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRALOOPY Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 which text book you get that information from chris none the less, useful though. Its the fact that he could go to said textbook and pick out that info for Ryan that helps. NOT your snidy comment. Although chris probably just wrote that, or thats what I'd like to believe:) Its going great Ryan good work. Dave;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 Right been on the phone to Tilton tonight to talk about master cylinder selection and the possibilty of going for a tilton 600 unit as i dont seem to be getting anywhere with the current OBP setup. Got the day off tomorrow to have another quick look at it and try some bits they suggest. They asked me to fill out the info in the form below http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=faq&view=9 After filling out the form for my setup they suggest i go for: (btw put the car weight at 1400kg with fuel and driver) Front: 0.750 Rear: 0.700 They also worked out the front Uk calipers need 550psi of pressure and the Uk rears need 591psi of pressure. Currently i have: Front: 0.700 Rear:0.750 Below are some pics of the way the bias is set at the mo which based on what Chris and Tilton have said is wrong at present. Tilton recommend between both the clevis for each Master cylinder it should be around 2.5" Its bloody useful that OBP gave no instructions for there unit! Need to measure tomorrow the current pedal travel and also see if the pedal pivot crosses past the level of the pedal also. Any input or anything that looks wrong let me know Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 Its the fact that he could go to said textbook and pick out that info for Ryan that helps. NOT your snidy comment. Although chris probably just wrote that, or thats what I'd like to believe:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 just looked at the 3rd picture Ryan and there are a few bits that dont look straight to me (the centre bush and the threaded bar), i have no idea about setting all this malarky up but as an apprentoid i was always taught to get everything smack on then set it up so as not to introduce variables or errors, it may not matter but just my two pence worth, loving the pics fella keep em coming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted June 21, 2009 Author Share Posted June 21, 2009 just looked at the 3rd picture Ryan and there are a few bits that dont look straight to me (the centre bush and the threaded bar), i have no idea about setting all this malarky up but as an apprentoid i was always taught to get everything smack on then set it up so as not to introduce variables or errors, it may not matter but just my two pence worth, loving the pics fella keep em coming The centre is definatly straight, i have just set the clevis's wrong at present and in the picture makes it look off. I've order a new set of new wilwood master cylinders as im not sure on the ones used in the OBP kit. I have read pretty much every bit of Literature about setting up the pedalboxes now so i think i can get it working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted June 21, 2009 Author Share Posted June 21, 2009 (edited) Bits left to do: - Fit cams - Fit turbo kit - Fit fuel system - Reinstall engine - Fit Rad and Vmount setup - Fit prop and new center bearing. - Spray and fit, rear hatch, doors, front wings, spoiler, bonnet, front and rear bumper - Fit plexi windows - Fit new front windscreen - Fit oil cooler system - Install engine loom and Solaris. - Make Alu door cards - Fit WI system - Fit all track based sensors - Make and fit custom windscreen wiper system to accomodate spray plug access panel. - Setup suspension and brake system - Fit Mechnical handbrake system - Setup pedalbox - Make breather tank - Mot - Finally Map on Dyno Im away from the 1st - 8th of July and Steve and the guys at Autotec are going to spray and assemble the outside of the car so i want to try and if possible get the car mechanically ready and mapped. Going to be a few late nights this week i imagine after work. I have pre-warned the missus Edited June 21, 2009 by Ryan.G (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 What a terrible looking thing that pedal box is!! Bin it, it's an abortion of the worst order. Even the pedals look like a slight sideways push would cripple them. That apart, the clevieses are FAR to far away from the tube. You need to just be abale to articulate the adjuster bar within the tube without the clevises jamming up. So there needs to probably be about 1/8 total (1/16 inch either side) clearance between clevises and the tube. The balance bar itself looks like it's too thin, for a none single seater application you need at least a 3/8 UNF threaded bar. Although this one probably won't do (not enough leverage ratio, I still say you need a top mount assembly) it shows how a proper one is made, and how much you need to be spending: http://www.racecarsdirect.com/listing/25048/Ap_Floor_Mounted_Pedal_box_and_cylinders.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.