AlexM Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 (edited) This man is your friend if you have between 2-3k spare for a full strip and paint http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/member.php?u=1503 I was thinking more along the lines of swapping the cars over after yours has been finished, complaining the paint is flaking, then getting it re-done. I'll bear him in mind if and when though. good call white with the black will look mint , what colour is the inside ?? , black inside with the cage white could look cool Sounds like a bit of a heat trap to me! Edited February 27, 2009 by AlexM (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRD DAN Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 I was thinking more along the lines of swapping the cars over after yours has been finished, complaining the paint is flaking, then getting it re-done. I'll bear him in mind if and when though. Sounds like a bit of a heat trap to me! yeah very true completley didnt think of that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTO Pete Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 Ive been following this thread for a while now- what a great project, wish I had the space to do stuff like this! Anyway, I have a new laptop with photoshop on it so this thread made me look at how to use it! [/OOPS] Heres my effort..... Not much different to the others that have been put up (or better but I dont have a mouse![OOPS] /vbb/images/smilies/bbcode_oops.gif ) just a slightly different twist! I think having the grey strip the same colour as the wheels would look good. Thought I'd try and be helpful as I will need ryans services at some point![GRIN][/GRIN] Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 Ryan: Your dampers are nearly done (at last...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoff Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 I've been holding off reading this for a while as I wanted to sit down with a cuppa (or 2) and read through it all together. Having been speaking to magictorch and g-nemie about the thread the other day I thought I really should crack on as it was getting well into the project. Ryan, wow. What a fantastic project, very special indeed mate:) You and the guys at Autotech have done a stunning job. I really cant wait to see this in the metal and competing. Brilliant:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 apologies Tony (and well spotted) ... should have called these ... relocated tie rod ends that are adjustable to bring the control arms back into a closer arc to the suspension arms. I've seen them called 'Bump steer reduction kits'. (pic attached) Rose jointed tie rod ends on their own wont do this... I sit corrected That's the bottom arm, and the spaced out bottom joint will be to help correct roll centres when the car's lowered. Close, but no cigar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveL Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 That's the bottom arm, and the spaced out bottom joint will be to help correct roll centres when the car's lowered. Close, but no cigar .... obviously my notes weren't good enough - this link shows what I was originally talking about : (for bump steer correction) http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0508_sccp_making_it_stick_part_3/photo_10.html Thanks Chris for correcting the other half of what I got wrong:) The other pic is quite rightly the relocated ball joint to correct roll centre and apparently camber curve as well(?) ... signing off and not giving up day job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted February 28, 2009 Author Share Posted February 28, 2009 Ive been following this thread for a while now- what a great project, wish I had the space to do stuff like this! Anyway, I have a new laptop with photoshop on it so this thread made me look at how to use it! [/OOPS] Heres my effort..... http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j244/rzeeck2003/1228273971_1111_03copycopy.jpg Not much different to the others that have been put up (or better but I dont have a mouse![OOPS] /vbb/images/smilies/bbcode_oops.gif ) just a slightly different twist! I think having the grey strip the same colour as the wheels would look good. Thought I'd try and be helpful as I will need ryans services at some point![GRIN][/GRIN] Pete Nice Job Pete! Think im pretty much set on all white now though as not sure i could now live with a black roof with the cabin temps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted February 28, 2009 Author Share Posted February 28, 2009 (edited) Right only a little update as have been in portugal the last few days mapping but while on the plane i got bored and decided to mock up an interior wiring layout... Need to still select wire colouring and put on switches for the Solaris but thats pretty much all i need. If anyone wants a powerpoint copy of this let me know and feel free to edit to suit your car. Edited February 28, 2009 by Ryan.G (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 As Ryan is getting his cylinder head built by a local company, they were asking about how much clearance there was from the valve ports to the water jackets etc. As it happens, I've got an old scrap cylinder head kicking about, so offered to stick it through the band saw at work to find out exactly how much material it was possible to remove. Turns out it's quite a lot! The thinnest section I could measure was 4.8mm thick, so I would say that you could potentially remove up to 3.5mm without any problems. This is a cut through the forward most valve centres of the no.6 cylinder, note the steel valve guides. (The ally band saw didn't like them! Or the steel valve seats ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 (edited) Tony that is absolutely awesome, i have a cylinder head in my garage i am rebuilding, i have been shall i shar'nt i for the last 6 months whether to grind the valve boss'es down, i spent hours looking for a picture like that and had decided to try and get hold of a gash cylinder head to chop up, i have 2 spare heads but could not bring myself to chop up a good one, thanks Edited February 28, 2009 by paul mac (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Skyline RB26 stock head as a comparison, I chopped this one up to see where I could safely fettle a new head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 And as a direct comparison in one image: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 (edited) lol, I was just doing exactly the same! Interesting how the 2JZ has the additional cooling over the top of the exhaust port. The inlet on the RB is smoother. The 2JZ looks like it has a larger exhaust port. Edited February 28, 2009 by TLicense (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 really interesting Chris to see the Skyline in comparison, the port layout is roughly the same even down to the pent roof valve angle, compare those two 20 year old designs to a modern BMW M3 design that is producing the same power as our (stock) "old bangers" but without the turbos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 So do these areas effect flow much on the 2JZ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 They'll have some effect, yes. But to what degree is very hard to say. Seeing as the valve stem will be protuding down from that, I wouldn't have thought it would be a massive amount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 So do these areas effect flow much on the 2JZ? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=88714&stc=1&d=1235861415 yes they will effect flow but at what point i am not sure, there are also other issues like gas velocity that come into play, low velocity (big port) kills the bottom end and vise versa, i have a home made flow rig and a grinder so i will post before and afters now i feel confident i'm not going to end up in the water ways Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Is that what the "valve bosses" are then Paul? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Is that what the "valve bosses" are then Paul? sure is, i have a set of brand new Ferrea valve guides that have an appointment with Mr Grinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 I shortened my guides and removed the casting bosses, but you have to offset doing this against more rapid valve guide wear, and less contact area with the valve, so less heat can be dissipated into the head casting and waterways. The 2JZ intake ports are considered to be on the large side of correct, if you port the inlets much you can kill gas speed dramatically. I think, for an old production head, they are very good. The RB26 has poor exhaust port flow, and careful work in that region gives good results. The M3 head shows what two decades of development can do Note that being N/A though they can get away with very short guides. Asymmetric cam profile, with lots of duration, again, development, VANOS and N/A make it quite different. Nice venturi effect at the valve seat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 I shortened my guides and removed the casting bosses, but you have to offset doing this against more rapid valve guide wear, and less contact area with the valve, so less heat can be dissipated into the head casting and waterways. The 2JZ intake ports are considered to be on the large side of correct, if you port the inlets much you can kill gas speed dramatically. I think, for an old production head, they are very good. The RB26 has poor exhaust port flow, and careful work in that region gives good results. The M3 head shows what two decades of development can do Note that being N/A though they can get away with very short guides. Asymmetric cam profile, with lots of duration, again, development, VANOS and N/A make it quite different. Nice venturi effect at the valve seat good points on the inlet valve Chris and this is why i went for the Ferrea bronze guides for heat transfer, totally agree on the shape of the port as well and looking at the cutaway vindicates my decision to leave the inlet valve well alone and i may even leave the boss in as well, there is definately some work that can be done on the exhaust, as for the M3 you've got to love the angle and how straight that port is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 Cant wait to get a piece of the head for my wall This is just what the guys at Swindon race engines needed Can i suggest we start a new thread with the pics etc in chap so other can find if searching etc. Thanks Again Mate and Cya in the morning Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 Quick update to end the night Had to send the underslung pedal box back as was not ideal with me being so low to the floor and asked what they could do with regards a floor mounted setup. Luckily they managed to get me a Floor mounted setup which met the ratios i needed and got it sent out next day They now offer the same kit for supra and other cars http://www2.obp.uk.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32_52_165&products_id=565&osCsid=c2f14bfa45534350fd7ab31ed3b65896 Managed to get the pedal box test fitted tonight and in the right place for me although we have made it adjustable to come forward 90mm for the shorter driver lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted March 9, 2009 Author Share Posted March 9, 2009 (edited) Right update time The exhaust System is now nearly finished and all welded up as well as the wastegate is fully fitted to the manifold. Just need to vent the wastegate back into the exhaust and job done on that side of things. Test fitted my Uk brakes to make sure they cleared my wheels and luckily they did Put the lexan rear window in to see what the fit was like and its spot on!! Finally got to do a job i have been waiting for a while and that was mock up and then fit the v mount setup for the Rad and Intercooler. Managed to get an intercooler which met my needs in the design but was only a 2 row but due to the size of it im sure it will be perfect with the Gt35R espically in a V mount setup. Also grabbed a 200sx Radiator which worked in the size we wanted. Here is a pic of them being mocked up Got Steve to welded up a few brackets and we made up some rubber mounting for the intercooler and Rad to sit on. Then mocked up some piping... Then i got my Alu skills back into action and made up a custom scoop for the vmount setup to ensure it works its best and is totally sealed After a few cuts here and there it fitted well Next job is to finish off the Steering column. Its half way there but i want to fit a collaspable joint in the system for extra safety. One good thing though is i reckon we saved about 20kg by loosing the stock column is weighs loads. Edited March 9, 2009 by Ryan.G (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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