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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Heater not getting hot


Homer

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There's no heat coming into the cabin even with the heater on full. One of the hoses going to the heater matrix is very hot, the other one cold.

 

The engine coolant was only put in today so could this be an air lock?

 

The engine water temp is also sitting a little higher than on the last supra, about 2/3rds of the way up the gauge instead of in the middle.

 

Any ideas?

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Here we go Homer, i knew i'd read a post on this, its for an NA but I think the process is effectively the same: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=167977&highlight=heater+matrix+airlock

 

 

Also: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=154729&highlight=heater+hot

Edited by Dave17
Found more for you (see edit history)
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Darryl, try to fill the system up from the rear of the engine where the pipes are at the highest point......;)

 

I have a valve fitted to mine now and I have never had any problems since......:)

 

H.

 

Yeah, that's what I was thinking at first, but if there's an air lock in the matrix it's not going to work is it?

 

Have you tried running the engine for a while? ;)

 

Cheers Steve, you're on the ball as always :D

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Yeah, that's what I was thinking at first, but if there's an air lock in the matrix it's not going to work is it?

 

 

Hmm, not sure of the layout of the pipework etc. If you fill the system slowly then I don't see why not.

 

I had problems for months but I also had a small leak, got the leak sorted and then filled the syste slowly and topped it up from the back......;)

 

H.

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I had some weird problems with mine after fitting the Fluidyne radiator with my Dad - we found the best thing to do was take the top rad hose off at the radiator end and top up the coolant there whilst holding that hose up high to get sufficient coolant straight into the engine.

 

Cheers,

 

Brian.

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I had some weird problems with mine after fitting the Fluidyne radiator with my Dad - we found the best thing to do was take the top rad hose off at the radiator end and top up the coolant there whilst holding that hose up high to get sufficient coolant straight into the engine.

 

Cheers,

 

Brian.

 

Thats exactly what I did Bri, but as the entire system was empty I think it's not filled the matrix.

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Thats exactly what I did Bri, but as the entire system was empty I think it's not filled the matrix.

 

Have you tried the trick of having the engine running with the rad cap off, then pump the 2x pipes that go through the bulkhead to the matrix at the rubber parts using your thumb and fingers - if there's air in the system you should see it bubble at the rad cap as you pump those hoses... keep doing it 'til it doesn't bubble anymore.

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Have you tried the trick of having the engine running with the rad cap off, then pump the 2x pipes that go through the bulkhead to the matrix at the rubber parts using your thumb and fingers - if there's air in the system you should see it bubble at the rad cap as you pump those hoses... keep doing it 'til it doesn't bubble anymore.

 

I always do that, obviously with the heater on full heat.

Works everytime

:)

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Still not solved :(

 

Removed the return pipe on the heater matrix but it was already full of water. Added about 200ml of fluid to the other side so there was a bit of a air lock in there...

 

Have you tried the trick of having the engine running with the rad cap off, then pump the 2x pipes that go through the bulkhead to the matrix at the rubber parts using your thumb and fingers - if there's air in the system you should see it bubble at the rad cap as you pump those hoses... keep doing it 'til it doesn't bubble anymore.

 

Tried this, the water level was going up and down when pinching the pipe, but no air bubbles

 

Just jack the front up mate. Sorry if this has been said..LOL

 

Good idea dave, will give that a try.

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Still not solved :(

 

Have you taken the car for a drive yet?

 

When I flushed my coolant I found that I needed to have the engine idling above 3000 rpm for a while with the heater on full before the coolant made it to the heater matrix. I reckon if you took your car round the block a few times, keeping it in a low gear it should fix itself. Don't forget to top up when the engine has cooled down.

Edited by Andy Blyth (see edit history)
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Have you taken the car for a drive yet?

 

When I flushed my coolant I found that I needed to have the engine idling above 3000 rpm for a while with the heater on full before the coolant made it to the heater matrix. I reckon if you took your car round the block a few times, keeping it in a low gear it should fix itself. Don't forget to top up when the engine has cooled down.

 

It's got no tax, insurance or MOT yet, so a drive is out of the question :(

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Still not fixed :(

 

The original problem remains:

 

- No heat to the cabin

- There's no leaks

- Rad is getting hot

- Engine temp is getting too high

- Feed to the matrix is very hot, return is cold

 

When removing the return hose it was full of rusty water, not the fresh coolant thats filled the rest of the system.

 

Is there any way to pressurise the water system to "force" flow through the system and get rid of any locks? I think the problem is in the matrix since the feed is hot and the return cold, how can this be flushed out?

 

I'm thinking of rigging up a hose pipe to the feed to see what comes out the return.. bad idea?

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Have you tried connecting a hose pipe to one side of the heater matrix and a bit of hose on the other side and let water run through it for a few minutes to see if it clears?

 

Not tried that yet, but it was one of thoughts I had. Is there any risk of busting the matrix forcing water through like that?

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