Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

yet another broken wheel stud


TRACIE_LOU

Recommended Posts

no spacers being used, wheels have plastic ring adaptor to resize hole to hub

 

The wheel spacers could explain it

 

This was extracted from Chris Wilsons recent post in another thread

 

 

Chris Wilson said - Any "proper" wheel will have spigot hole that's a PERFECT fit on the nose of the stock hub, WITHOUT the use of those dreadful ring adaptors. All suspension loads should be transmitted through the nose, NOT the wheel studs. The studs should be PURELY in tension and NOT in shear. The correct spigot hole size also ensures the wheel runs concentric with the hubs. I would STRONGLY advise you ONLY buy forged wheels (like the stock ones). Cast rims may shatter on impact, with immediate tyre deflation, or maybe complete detachment from the hub studs, forged ones bend and stay attached, and short of major impact, the tyre stays inflated. Good wheels are round, and in perfect balance without additional weights. Good wheels are light, but stiff, with good brake ventialtion, and a good heat path from the hub face into the wheels spokes, to promote brake and hub cooling. Good wheels are the right offset. Good wheels are nearly always expansive, bought new. Most aftermarket wheels are junk. Most aftermarket wheel vendors are salesmen and haven't a CLUE what they are doing.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The wheel spacers could explain it

 

This was extracted from Chris Wilsons recent post in another thread

 

 

this true and he explained this to us i beleive that our wheels are inccorect offset cw said they where to wide is this the cause,where can you purchase nice wheels that are supra specific correct offset stud patern and hub centric any pics would be nice,seems rushing in last minute to get wheels is yet another costly mistake we made :(:(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Which wheel has lost a stud now? The OSF had all the studs replaced. I said checck the torque after a reasonable journey, if it's the same hub that's broken another stud, were the other 4 tight still, or is it another wheel? If it's another wheel i would say renew ALL the 3 other wheels studs, as someone has overtightened them in the past. If it's the OSF again, then something horrible is happening and it wants a good coat of looking at. Give me a bell, we'll have a chat and see what it may be.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tighten all nuts holding alloy wheels to 79lbft. We had a front wheel on one of our 200Sx cars, that spat out two nuts shortly after we got it. When we removed all the three studs that were left there were signs of stretching. Since this near disaster, I would change all studs on a hub if one broke. May be over kill, but the alternatives could be deadly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I snapped a stud a few weeks ago when I changed the front brake pads. Some monkey had really overtightened them. I had to heat almost all of them up and give the nut a good thump to get them off. New studs from Toyota are around £1.90 each.

£10 a wheel is better than a nasty accident.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your wheels should pull central from the chamfer on the nuts anyway .

.

 

:blink: very dangerous assumption. They don't, trust me. You need the hub to centre the wheel and not the nuts, hub-centric spacers all the way. I just got some turned up at work, bespoke to my set-up and made from the correct ally (HB4 IIRC). I would prefer not to have them at all, but can't afford to buy a whole set of alloys. They fit lovely anyway and the car feels so mush more settled. I was running on just the 5 studs and no rings for 4 years:taped: I never realised until a while back that this was so dangerous (the wheels where on the car and like that when I got them).

 

I am considering changing the studs as well, who knows what stresses and strains these have seen over the years :tongue:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have metal spacer rings on my Volks and they are definitely taking the strain of holding the wheel, as they are difficult to get off the hub when I remove the wheel! A good tight fit. Not sure I'd be happy with plastic ones, surely they would have quite a bit of compliance in them, transmitting shear force to the studs?

 

I'd also like to echo the "change your studs" comments. I had a rear stud shear after someone else did something with the wheels, so I swapped all of the rear studs on both sides, just to make damned sure. They are peanuts, as already mentioned, especially compared to shedding a wheel at god only knows what speed. The fronts should be easier to change than the rears as there is no handbrake mechanism getting in the way.

 

I believe there is a guide to changing them somewhere ;)

 

-Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.