TRACIE_LOU Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 whats going on this is the second one in a month what could be causing it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
extendor Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 Do you or did you use wheel spacers. I would suspect non hubcentric spacers to cause this. If so you should replace them all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRACIE_LOU Posted November 15, 2008 Author Share Posted November 15, 2008 no spacers being used, wheels have plastic ring adaptor to resize hole to hub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 whats going on this is the second one in a month what could be causing it ? what are they just falling off ? or are they snapping off when you tighten them up, if yes you need a torque wrench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 Any photos of these failed studs anywhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRACIE_LOU Posted November 15, 2008 Author Share Posted November 15, 2008 i just noticed that a nut was missing took closer look and its snapped off car has only been driven back from cw wont be able to get pics up for a few days as working nights:( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-Brett Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 no spacers being used, wheels have plastic ring adaptor to resize hole to hub The wheel spacers could explain it This was extracted from Chris Wilsons recent post in another thread Chris Wilson said - Any "proper" wheel will have spigot hole that's a PERFECT fit on the nose of the stock hub, WITHOUT the use of those dreadful ring adaptors. All suspension loads should be transmitted through the nose, NOT the wheel studs. The studs should be PURELY in tension and NOT in shear. The correct spigot hole size also ensures the wheel runs concentric with the hubs. I would STRONGLY advise you ONLY buy forged wheels (like the stock ones). Cast rims may shatter on impact, with immediate tyre deflation, or maybe complete detachment from the hub studs, forged ones bend and stay attached, and short of major impact, the tyre stays inflated. Good wheels are round, and in perfect balance without additional weights. Good wheels are light, but stiff, with good brake ventialtion, and a good heat path from the hub face into the wheels spokes, to promote brake and hub cooling. Good wheels are the right offset. Good wheels are nearly always expansive, bought new. Most aftermarket wheels are junk. Most aftermarket wheel vendors are salesmen and haven't a CLUE what they are doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 Sounds to me like one of two things, you are over tightening the nut or under tightening, both can cause this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRACIE_LOU Posted November 15, 2008 Author Share Posted November 15, 2008 The wheel spacers could explain it This was extracted from Chris Wilsons recent post in another thread this true and he explained this to us i beleive that our wheels are inccorect offset cw said they where to wide is this the cause,where can you purchase nice wheels that are supra specific correct offset stud patern and hub centric any pics would be nice,seems rushing in last minute to get wheels is yet another costly mistake we made :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRACIE_LOU Posted November 15, 2008 Author Share Posted November 15, 2008 Sounds to me like one of two things, you are over tightening the nut or under tightening, both can cause this. what are the torque settings as i have a torque wrench at work and can check them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
extendor Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 Now you have owned up to plastic rings I thing you are going to find the studs are badly fatigued. Please change them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 Which wheel has lost a stud now? The OSF had all the studs replaced. I said checck the torque after a reasonable journey, if it's the same hub that's broken another stud, were the other 4 tight still, or is it another wheel? If it's another wheel i would say renew ALL the 3 other wheels studs, as someone has overtightened them in the past. If it's the OSF again, then something horrible is happening and it wants a good coat of looking at. Give me a bell, we'll have a chat and see what it may be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRACIE_LOU Posted November 15, 2008 Author Share Posted November 15, 2008 hey chris its the other front wheel i only driven it back from yours as not had chance to check studs working nights but will grab torque wrench tonight and check them over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRACIE_LOU Posted November 15, 2008 Author Share Posted November 15, 2008 bump :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 bump :D If it's the OSF again, then something horrible is happening and it wants a good coat of looking at. HTH Give CW a call to book it in Case closed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminator Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 I tighten all nuts holding alloy wheels to 79lbft. We had a front wheel on one of our 200Sx cars, that spat out two nuts shortly after we got it. When we removed all the three studs that were left there were signs of stretching. Since this near disaster, I would change all studs on a hub if one broke. May be over kill, but the alternatives could be deadly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Get all your studs changed asap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Yes, I would say it would be prudent to change all the other ones, too. Someone's over tightened them in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merckx Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 I fitted new ones when I put the new wheels on, I always torque them up. I don't let anyone else remove and refit a wheel if I get a tyre fitted. I always remove it myself and take it to the tyre place in another car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xeno Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 I snapped a stud a few weeks ago when I changed the front brake pads. Some monkey had really overtightened them. I had to heat almost all of them up and give the nut a good thump to get them off. New studs from Toyota are around £1.90 each. £10 a wheel is better than a nasty accident. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt _Aero top_ Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 no spacers being used, wheels have plastic ring adaptor to resize hole to hub Your wheels should pull central from the chamfer on the nuts anyway . I would just change the studs as other members have said . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suprattgaz Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Your wheels should pull central from the chamfer on the nuts anyway . . very dangerous assumption. They don't, trust me. You need the hub to centre the wheel and not the nuts, hub-centric spacers all the way. I just got some turned up at work, bespoke to my set-up and made from the correct ally (HB4 IIRC). I would prefer not to have them at all, but can't afford to buy a whole set of alloys. They fit lovely anyway and the car feels so mush more settled. I was running on just the 5 studs and no rings for 4 years:taped: I never realised until a while back that this was so dangerous (the wheels where on the car and like that when I got them). I am considering changing the studs as well, who knows what stresses and strains these have seen over the years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 I have metal spacer rings on my Volks and they are definitely taking the strain of holding the wheel, as they are difficult to get off the hub when I remove the wheel! A good tight fit. Not sure I'd be happy with plastic ones, surely they would have quite a bit of compliance in them, transmitting shear force to the studs? I'd also like to echo the "change your studs" comments. I had a rear stud shear after someone else did something with the wheels, so I swapped all of the rear studs on both sides, just to make damned sure. They are peanuts, as already mentioned, especially compared to shedding a wheel at god only knows what speed. The fronts should be easier to change than the rears as there is no handbrake mechanism getting in the way. I believe there is a guide to changing them somewhere -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 I changed my rears to these Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRACIE_LOU Posted November 17, 2008 Author Share Posted November 17, 2008 thats what we need pics cheers dude im gonna have a go at this myself i think and see if we can find some ally spacers i would make them myself if i were still in my old job:d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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