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How did you go about choosing your alloys?


SupraAyf

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I love BBS LM's

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c338/jamie450x/dsc00083yg4-1.jpg

 

But my all time favorites are my 19" Sienna Generation split rim's:cool: always loved the look of Paul Wiffins car and when these came up for sale i had to have them.:)

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c338/jamie450x/supersupe016-1.jpg

 

BBS LM's look ace though I prefer their one piece wheels.

 

I have to second the Siennas though, also my all time favourite wheel ever since I saw Paul's car in a magazine many years ago just after his first PHR kit was fitted.

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Any "proper" wheel will have spigot hole that's a PERFECT fit on the nose of the stock hub, WITHOUT the use of those dreadful ring adaptors. All suspension loads should be transmitted through the nose, NOT the wheel studs. The studs should be PURELY in tension and NOT in shear. The correct spigot hole size also ensures the wheel runs concentric with the hubs. I would STRONGLY advise you ONLY buy forged wheels (like the stock ones). Cast rims may shatter on impact, with immediate tyre deflation, or maybe complete detachment from the hub studs, forged ones bend and stay attached, and short of major impact, the tyre stays inflated. Good wheels are round, and in perfect balance without additional weights. Good wheels are light, but stiff, with good brake ventialtion, and a good heat path from the hub face into the wheels spokes, to promote brake and hub cooling. Good wheels are the right offset. Good wheels are nearly always expansive, bought new. Most aftermarket wheels are junk. Most aftermarket wheel vendors are salesmen and haven't a CLUE what they are doing.

Edited by Chris Wilson (see edit history)
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Any "proper" wheel will have spigot hole that's a PERFECT fit on the nose of the stock hub, WITHOUT the use of those dreadful ring adaptors. All suspension loads should be transmitted through the nose, NOT the wheel studs. The studs should be PURELY in tension and NOT in shear. The correct spigot hole size also ensures the wheel runs concentric with the hubs. I would STRONGLY advise you ONLY buy forged wheels (like the stock ones). Cast rims may shatter on impact, with immediate tyre deflation, or maybe complete detachment from the hub studs, forged ones bend and stay attached, and short of major impact, the tyre stays inflated. Good wheels are round, and in perfect balance without additional weights. Good wheels are light, but stiff, with good brake ventialtion, and a good heat path from the hub face into the wheels spokes, to promote brake and hub cooling. Good wheels are the right offset. Good wheels are nearly always expansive, bought new. Most aftermarket wheels are junk. Most aftermarket wheel vendors are salesmen and haven't a CLUE what they are doing.

 

Chris,

 

Given the above, what would be your recommendations then from the aftermarket brands ?

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BBS do some proper sized rims (spigot hole is correct without kludges). Lexus (GS300 I think) rims are right offset, forged and correct. Image do some lovely wheels. Some of the better Rays rims are good. They even do some magnesium alloy ones.

 

Any experience of the Rays SF Challenge ... ? (not that I have a set on order)

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BBS do some proper sized rims (spigot hole is correct without kludges). Lexus (GS300 I think) rims are right offset, forged and correct. Image do some lovely wheels. Some of the better Rays rims are good. They even do some magnesium alloy ones.

 

 

I really want a set of rays again but none have the correct spigot hole though?

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I wasnt impressed with my Work Equips having have spigot rings considering how much they were:(

 

I made my own though out of a high grade HE 15 alloy, i definetly wouldnt use the plastic rings.

 

Rays have got to be one of the best, if i was thinking of blowing a large chunk of cash on wheels thats what i'd buy.

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Any experience of the Rays SF Challenge ... ? (not that I have a set on order)

 

rays make such a VAST array of rims I just don't know. There's some blah blah (TE?) 57 I think ones which are light, and are definitely available with the right spigot hole diameter. Most makers just turn a BIG hole and use rings, as it keeps the inventory level down. The good makers will machine from blanks to the right spec. It's a minefield.

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For sure, a decent metal ring is a BIG improvement on soft plastic things that look as though they should be in some cheap box of Christmas crackers. Syed's Soarer had some stunning CCD (pretty sure they WEREN'T CCD, but some American billet wheel that's expensive that sounds like that), wheels. They had adaptors that also formed the centre caps, which was kind of neat. Sadly they were the wrong size for the hubs, but it was a nice way of doing them.

Edited by Chris Wilson (see edit history)
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For sure, a decent metal ring is a BIG improvement on soft plastic things that look as though they should be in some cheap box of Christmas crackers. Syed's Soarer had some stunning CCD (pretty sure they WEREN'T CCD, but some American billet wheel that's expensive that sounds like that), wheels. They had adaptors that also formed the centre caps, which was kind of neat. Sadly they were the wrong size for the hubs, but it was a nice way of doing them.

 

CCW's Chris ;)

 

I can supply the Braid range, custom made to fit without Spigot rings

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I thought they were made to order ? so would have thought the spigot bore would be machined to the correct diameter !

 

I thought that too however Ive been told they dont offer that now(think they did a few years ago but stopped now)and are just one size now to fit a range of cars.

The volks on my old supra had no spigot ring and neither on my gtr:rolleyes:

 

Even ccw's thats where ment to be custom wheels for the supra, people had to fit 3-4mm spacers that they supplied to clear uk front calipers:(

 

I want rid of my lexus wheels but finding another set of wheels that fit and thats worth the money is a nightmare especially if they dont make the difference look wise after a £*000

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I came across a magazine featured Red Lexus with some lovely matt black deep-dish wheels and a shallow red lip on the rim - now they may look good on my Red Supra. It would certainly change the look from the gold rims that I have at the moment.

 

My mind is ticking over faster than a belt-fed wombat:d

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Hoff, what is the quality of Rota wheels? They're most recognised for being cheap alternatives to popular designs of wheels, but does the price compromise the quality? How long have you had them? How are they holding up? Thoughts, feelings? :)

 

I have Rota GTR's in silver with polished lip, they are light wheels, and have been on the car for about a year, and no signs of deteriation yet, the rear rims get the odd stone chip in the lacquer, which I touch up with clear lacquer when I notice them, this seems to stop any water getting under the lacquer.

 

Rota do copy more expensive designs, but they are a good quality product in them selves.

 

the reason I choose these wheels was because I spent hours and hours looking at photos of supra's and decided that 5 spoke wheels suited them best, so that limited the search, then it was just a case of finding the right set of 5 spokes, I saw a set of (if memory serves) dare Hiro's on a supra which I really liked (the design is similar to the GTR's) but they were only available in 19", which I didn't want to go to, then I stumbled upon the GTR's which were available in 18", their the very fellow's for me I thought, :D

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