SimonT Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 Im looking at going BPU as i want to have a bit of fun next year when i get my car back out!! I already have the Walbro pump, cat back exhaust and Iridium plugs so just need the 2 decats and FCD! However, my SMIC i think has seen better days so im wondering what would happen if i dont change it yet and still decat etc? Also i have a bit of oil in my intercooling pipe and coming from my BOV which ive read on here could mean that my turbo seals are on there way out? Would it be wise to get these done also before i venture into BPU or could they handle the extra power? Any input would be much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 (edited) Try and ascertain if the oil is down to your turbo seals, or engine breathing first, as for the IC give it a good visual inspection, and maybe try a leak test, if its still good, then it will be fine for BPU power levels, i still use mine with a single turbo. Edited November 13, 2008 by Tricky-Ricky (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little num Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 hi bud there will always be some oil in the pipes, depends on if its running out or just a smear. whats the milage on the turbo's, i have a uk and went BPU its done 120thou and my intercooler is also shot, but i have fitted water injection that also injects 50% water and 50% methonol, for the winter it will be fine going bpu but i will be getting an uprated cooler before the summer as im running 1.3 in mine and it FLYS lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonT Posted November 13, 2008 Author Share Posted November 13, 2008 Thanks for the advice chaps! Whats a leak rest or was it test?? Either way i dont know! The car has done 110k! Where would i get a water injector are they expensive, easy to fit?? Sorry for the dumbness and all the questions but i dont really wanna put more strain on the turbo's and cooler and blow it up??!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 LOL slip of the keyboard, must get it replaced, test, either pug up the IC and pressurise, (LOW pressure) but if it has high mileage, or has been in the UK for some time its likely to be corroded, so you will need to replace, but what i was getting at is that there is no need to change the IC for BPU or BPU++ water injection is really only a safeguard against detonation, and is also not really necessary at those power levels, and in fact unless you are using a stand alone or piggyback ECU, it may even cause you to loose power if to much is injected as the std fuelling is pretty rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadyn Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 My 1st TT was BPU with an absolutely shagged SMIC and it seemed fine. Wouldnt want to run long term with a bad SMIC though, I only ran mine like that for 7 odd ish months before I wrote it off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonT Posted November 13, 2008 Author Share Posted November 13, 2008 It is a bit corroded so i think i should replace it but will it knacker anything if i dont change it straight away and still go BPU or is it just safer to change it? Thanks for the help!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 It is a bit corroded so i think i should replace it but will it knacker anything if i dont change it straight away and still go BPU or is it just safer to change it? Thanks for the help!! No it won't knacker anything . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadyn Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 You'll be fine for a good few thousand miles, just dont run mega boost or 1.2 bar on it all day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonT Posted November 14, 2008 Author Share Posted November 14, 2008 Cheers for the helps guys very much appreciated! Time for me to buy the double decats and FCD!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonT Posted November 14, 2008 Author Share Posted November 14, 2008 Just wondering what you guys do when it comes to MOT time? Do you just put one cat back on if so which one or do you need to put both back on as i imagine that is a right pain in the back side?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merckx Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 Quite a few on here just put one cat on and they pass, the second one is much easier to put put back on than the first. I put both back on to make sure, I have the philosophy that I may aswell do both when the car is raised up and I have the tools out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonT Posted November 14, 2008 Author Share Posted November 14, 2008 Am i right in saying that the 1st one is the pain as it comes off the manifold??? Edited as i didnt read the last post properly!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razza Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 just find a friendly MOT centre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 As there are no emissions figures available for the J spec Supra, my MOT centre don't test for a CAT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 Not seen it mentioned yet, but you are putting out an extra 50-100 bhp so checks on the following could be wise Tyres - condition and brand - no cheapies Suspension - no play or wear Brakes - pads, discs, fluid age, hose age? Engine oil/filters, fuel filter, gearbox oil, clutch life, clutch and PAS fluid, plugs and coil pack connectors, rubber engine bay hoses (perishing) May want to consider additional guages too - EGT would be a primary choice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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