dandan Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 What are you going to have them made from Chris? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 Probably 5140 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 Probably 5140 Is that a common material choice in the aftermarket world? ps - Ref the phonecall on Saturday, the driveshaft nuts were tighter than a tight thing and needed close to 6ft of leverage so I guess that's a good sign. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 22, 2009 Author Share Posted May 22, 2009 Right, these things take time Collected 3 freshly bored, decked and honed blocks all with custom billet cams made and fitted and honed to size. All within 3/10 thou inch to size and roundness. Crank is being ground on the mains as there was 1.5 thou "bend" in it, but it's in such a bizarre place I suspect it was made like that from new. Carillo rods are made and here, as are the special forged pistons and the ring packs. Once the crank is here next week I can do a dry build, and get the head gasket made up. Kent sent the cams about 3 weeks ago, and they will need the shimming doing. So at LONG last the engine can go together soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorin Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 So at LONG last the engine can go together soon Look forward to the shiny assembly pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 22, 2009 Author Share Posted May 22, 2009 Skyline first, then this. I am surrounded by none profit making boxes of bits right now, but I will post some photos in due course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 20, 2009 Author Share Posted July 20, 2009 OK, managed to get some work done on this project this morning. I checked all the caps for bore size, ovality and straightness, with a Mercer gauge and a machined bore guage bar. As I expected and hoped, they were spot on. Dry built with the steel crank in the mains, and checked actual bearing clearances again, with Plastigauge. Was wanting 1.5 thou inch (0.0015") and I think you must agree, we have got pretty much what we were after Will fit a new piston to one of the new rods and check deck heights after lunch, so i can get a head gasket made to give the CR I am after. That should finalise the engine bits, save for valve springs and 2 missing shims for under the springs. I hope to have the block built this week. http://www.chriswilson.tv/4agecrank/4agecrank.html As an aside I decided to have the caps made with little crescent shaped cut outs in their sides, to allow a tool to engage to lever them from the block rails, as these can be fiddly to remove otherwise. They work well. I'll do future ones the same I think We now have CNC files, tooling and some actual blanks for 2JZ-GTE steel main caps. Be aware though, that with *PROPER* machining this mod isn't cheap, but witness the 2JZ engines which have had steel caps fitted that have given catastrophic trouble, due to them not having been done correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitz Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Looks like a fine job there Chris! Keep us posted on more updates when you get the time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorin Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Nice to see it coming together now Chris.... just how many receipts have you had to hide from Mrs Wilson now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 22, 2009 Author Share Posted July 22, 2009 Nice to see it coming together now Chris.... just how many receipts have you had to hide from Mrs Wilson now? Lots, let's not go there.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 22, 2009 Author Share Posted July 22, 2009 I gapped the rings tonight using my new powered ring grinder. I have always gapped rings by hand in a small vice with soft jaws, and on a V8, V10 or V12 it takes forever. This new gizmo should be a lot faster, plus it's VERY accurate. I have also double checked the rod bearing clearances with Plastigauge. In the photos you can see the difference in piston crown volume between the Formula Atlantic N/A pistons (12.75 to 1 CR) and the new turbo pistons at 8.75 to 1 with a 1mm head gasket. Not so clear is the 1 mm bigger piston pins in the turbo pistons, the slightly thicker rings for better heat transfer to the block, and the fact they are a bit meatier around the pin boss area. The Carrillo rods have their own CARR bolts in them, I haven't used them before, but at the price they should be damned good The bolts are 3/8 inch as opposed the 5/16 inch bolts in the Atlantic rods, again, a bit of extra strength, although it won't be revved as hard in the new turbo format. I need to make an oil feed restrictor for the block to head oilway, and then I can get on with the head. Photos at http://www.chriswilson.tv/4ageblock/4ageblock.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share Posted November 5, 2009 After finishing a couple of other projects before the bad weather I should be back on track with this build. Just got off the phone to Quicksilver Race Engines in the USA having ordered the valve spring seat shims, valve stem seals and some other stuff, plus a spare cylinder head in case this all goes horribly wrong. My intention is to acquire the main bits to put another bare Formula Atlantic engine in N/A form together as a back up. I welded an oil return for the turbo in the dry sump pan the other day, and now the sump can go on and the block can be buttoned up with water pump, rear main seal housing and dummy front cover (in place of the stock oil pump). I'll get pics as and when. I have new valve springs, the head rebuild is next, I haven't even dummy fitted the new cams yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 Did some more on it today, it's looking a bit more finished now http://www.chriswilson.tv/4AGEbuild/build.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Look good, Chris. Still going with the GT3071r? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 Yep, we'll see how it goes on the dyno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Im very jealous! Needs a Solaris though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 9, 2010 Author Share Posted December 9, 2010 I have resumed work on this. I was looking at the cams the other month and thought they seemed to have a hell of a lot of duration, so took them out and had them checked. Kent had sent me the wrong profiles.... I was a bit miffed to say the least, as it was all shimmed up and ready to time. Anyway, they offered to make another pair with the exact same size base circle so I didn't have to re-shim, with the correct profiles I'd asked for. This took a long time.... They are now done and today I installed them, checked the clearances, which were unchanged, and timed them up. I also fitted the throttle pot I bought off Ebay a while ago. I now need to find the cam position Hall effect sensor, which I bought from RS Components, and which I put somewhere so safe even I can't find it Once found I will work out a way to mount it and get a cam position trigger signal. Turbo oil drain hose is too short, I either extend it with a join or find a 90 degree hose with longer legs (preferably the latter). Then it's the bit I hate, an engine loom. A bit of finishing on the dry sump piping and it should be pretty well done. At last!! The cams should both have .1363 inch lift at TDC, given it's a horrible belt drive I have got it pretty good. It'll change as soon as it's run, as the belt will stretch, but it gives me a nice warm feeling to know it was, for a short time, spot on Photos of today's efforts below. http://www.chriswilson.tv/cam_timing/cam_timing.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davej705 Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 Very cool project Chris.should be alot of fun when it's complete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 Great pics Chris, love your work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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