cheekymonkey Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 Thanks to the guys who helped me push the supra backwards on Saturday at Llandow as it would NOT go into reverse It seems to happen after hard driving so must be down to heat or something. I had this problem to a lesser degree a few months ago, and collapsing pressure plates was suggested, but now I'm on a new clutch (RPS Street Max) and it's still doing it. Once I got home and the car was a normal temps again it was fine! What could it be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 Not enough clutch release bearing travel to free the plate. Heat expansion means the marginal amount when cold is insufficient when hot. It's a problem I often see on this make of clutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheekymonkey Posted October 6, 2008 Author Share Posted October 6, 2008 OK - will have to live with it then, not a problem as I know it's not anything damaged as such. Out of interest how come it only affects reverse/1st and normal gear changes are unaffected? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 You are trying to use the clutch, which is dragging, to stop the gear train to stationary. Changing between gears requires just a speed differential, and the falling engine RPMs will help match the speeds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheekymonkey Posted October 6, 2008 Author Share Posted October 6, 2008 Thanks Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheekymonkey Posted July 6, 2009 Author Share Posted July 6, 2009 Just wanted to bump this to get some more ideas. I just realised that this problem started to occur *before* I got the RPS Street Max fitted, so I thought getting a new clutch would sort it. It's happening more and more now, essentially I cannot reverse if I need to when I'm out and about on the road unless I turn the engine off, engage reverse and then start her up again. Even with the clutch fully depressed I have to control the car with the brake in reverse -it's like an auto Still have the problem with 1st gear too, it's not as bad but I really have to use a LOT of force to push the clutch down, else I get the dreaded crunching noise and people give me funny looks! Can I adjust the pedal a little to get more travel? Any other ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Smaller bore slave cylinder or larger bore master cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheekymonkey Posted July 6, 2009 Author Share Posted July 6, 2009 Is that likely to be costly Chris? Something you've done on Supras before now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 I have done it on a Skyline with a race clutch by sleeving the slave cylinder. It's a lot of time and work though. You shouldn't need to do any of this though, having said that it's anything but unusual with RPS clutches, in my opinion. OS Giken seem the best for sensible money, but aren't a drag start clutch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheekymonkey Posted July 6, 2009 Author Share Posted July 6, 2009 What could have caused the same problem on my previous (CW) clutch? Wondering if it could be an underlying issue somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Leaky master cylinder? A leaky slave should show obvious fluid under, or around the rubber dust seal. A laky master can leak back into the reservoir. My clutch uses totally stock geometry, a failure to fully release indicates other issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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