grahamc Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 Can anyone recommend a decent boiler engineer in the Redhill, Surrey area? Hot water and heating has suddenly stopped working. Overheat cutoff keeps tripping, so I am guessing that its the thermostat, but what the hell do I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 You need British gas homehelp mate, has helped me out no end of times Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havard Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 It sounds like your pump ay have packed in mate. This shouldn't expensive really. A pump will cost you about £40 and labour should be about an hour. I could be wrong but it sounds like you aren't getting any circulation. If the boiler fires then it has no way of removing the hot water and will cut out on the boiler overheat stat. Beware of cowboys mate!! H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merckx Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 Overheat cutoff keeps tripping. This happened to my sister's a combi boiler few months ago. It had an airlock in the combi boiler, there's a little bleed valve that I used to release the air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted September 14, 2008 Author Share Posted September 14, 2008 It sounds like your pump ay have packed in mate. This shouldn't expensive really. A pump will cost you about £40 and labour should be about an hour. I could be wrong but it sounds like you aren't getting any circulation. If the boiler fires then it has no way of removing the hot water and will cut out on the boiler overheat stat. Beware of cowboys mate!! H. could be, my guess was completely UN-educated! This happened to my sister's a combi boiler few months ago. It had an airlock in the combi boiler, there's a little bleed valve that I used to release the air. Boiler is a Glow Worm Ultimate, if that helps Where is the bleed valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havard Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 could be, my guess was completely UN-educated! Boiler is a Glow Worm Ultimate, if that helps Where is the bleed valve? If it is relatively modern then it should be self venting. Do you know where your pump is? Turn your heating on and try changing the speed of the pump. There should be a 3 speed selector switch on the side of it. You should hear the pitch of the motor change as you do this. H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted September 14, 2008 Author Share Posted September 14, 2008 If it is relatively modern then it should be self venting. Do you know where your pump is? Turn your heating on and try changing the speed of the pump. There should be a 3 speed selector switch on the side of it. You should hear the pitch of the motor change as you do this. H. Not a clue on how modern, its a big box... As for the pump, no idea... what will it look like?? Size?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted September 14, 2008 Author Share Posted September 14, 2008 If it is relatively modern then it should be self venting. Do you know where your pump is? Turn your heating on and try changing the speed of the pump. There should be a 3 speed selector switch on the side of it. You should hear the pitch of the motor change as you do this. H. About the same size as an alternator? Making an odd squeakin sound (almost like a loose fan belt).... does change pitch, just not sure about the rest of the noise! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamesy W Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 That's the one, is there a large screw on the front of it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRALOOPY Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 Going through all this atm too. I'll let you know what it was. BTW the insurance thing is a god send. but BG are far to exspensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted September 14, 2008 Author Share Posted September 14, 2008 That's the one, is there a large screw on the front of it? Yes, it does. Going through all this atm too. I'll let you know what it was. BTW the insurance thing is a god send. but BG are far to exspensive. At least I am not the only one... glad its not the middle of winter as well! Let me know what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fargo Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 sounds like a circulation problem, if you really get stuck then let me know, im a BG engineer and your not far from me really (uxbridge) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyT Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 Make sure your pressure is up around 1.5 bar too. Gotta get mine serviced soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havard Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 Actually, Andy T has a good point there. Is the system up to pressure? I would imagine that it would not fire if there was low pressure though. What does the pump say on it. The manufacturers details are usually on the top. The big screw is a vent screw. I would undo it slowly and see if you get water out? H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamesy W Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 Sounds a bit stone age but sometimes when they seize up a little tap with a hammer/screwdriver can ease them up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted September 14, 2008 Author Share Posted September 14, 2008 sounds like a circulation problem, if you really get stuck then let me know, im a BG engineer and your not far from me really (uxbridge) Woul appreciate some help if you are in the area, but thats a rather long way to go if you are not. Make sure your pressure is up around 1.5 bar too. Gotta get mine serviced soon. Will check that now, only place I am seeing a gauge is on one of the pipes above the boiler. Actually, Andy T has a good point there. Is the system up to pressure? I would imagine that it would not fire if there was low pressure though. What does the pump say on it. The manufacturers details are usually on the top. The big screw is a vent screw. I would undo it slowly and see if you get water out? H. Will try it... should I get a bucket? Sounds a bit stone age but sometimes when they seize up a little tap with a hammer/screwdriver can ease them up. Im like clarkson, a hammer will fix any problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted September 14, 2008 Author Share Posted September 14, 2008 on the gauge, pressure reads black "hand" 0.5bar, red "hand" 1.1bar i have had the pump off for a while and now switch back on. Not making odd sounds anymore. Also banged about on it a little, helped (me) a little , not sure about the hot water though. Unscrewing the big screw, releases some water, quickly tightened it back up, hisses a lot. Now that the little black disc on the front comes off, its much easier.... GRUNDFOS SELECTRIC UPS 15-50, some part numbers and volts and other boring info... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamesy W Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 It shouldn't be hissing, thats air trapped in your system, undo it again till the hissing stops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyT Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 I'm guessing that the red hand is actual and black is the low limit Graham. If the black hand is actual pressure it's low. Only way to find out is to find the valve on the pipework outside of the boiler casing and open it a little, see which hand moves. Valve should be a simple in line 90 degree turn jobbie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havard Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 Bloody Grundfos....... I work for their main competitor Wilo. Grundfos are actually the market leader and they do make a good pump. There should be a code on it to say how old it is? Usually 4 figures like 9806 as in week 6, 1998 etc. If the black hand on the guage is at 0.5 Bar then that is normally the point at which the low pressure cut out kicks in.... I would imagine you need to pressurise the system. Hopefully there is a floppy braided connector off your mains water to connect to the heating pipework? H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted September 14, 2008 Author Share Posted September 14, 2008 It shouldn't be hissing, thats air trapped in your system, undo it again till the hissing stops. I will give that a go... with a bowl! I'm guessing that the red hand is actual and black is the low limit Graham. If the black hand is actual pressure it's low. Only way to find out is to find the valve on the pipework outside of the boiler casing and open it a little, see which hand moves. Valve should be a simple in line 90 degree turn jobbie. Bloody Grundfos....... I work for their main competitor Wilo. Grundfos are actually the market leader and they do make a good pump. There should be a code on it to say how old it is? Usually 4 figures like 9806 as in week 6, 1998 etc. If the black hand on the guage is at 0.5 Bar then that is normally the point at which the low pressure cut out kicks in.... I would imagine you need to pressurise the system. Hopefully there is a floppy braided connector off your mains water to connect to the heating pipework? H. its 9518 what the hell is a "floppy braided connector"? Where would I find this? Near the boiler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havard Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 I will give that a go... with a bowl! its 9518 what the hell is a "floppy braided connector"? Where would I find this? Near the boiler? Ooh, 9518......that was a really bad week for faults..... Just kidding. There should be some sort of flexible connector (Looks like a braided brake line) or a valve that is shut from your cold water pipework that links to the heating system. Something that will temporarily put water into the system. You open the valve and you will hear water rushing into the system, the black needle on the guage should rise after a minute or so. May be a good idea to post up a picture of the pipework under the boiler. .You have to pressurise it someway as you have no header tank on your system. H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted September 14, 2008 Author Share Posted September 14, 2008 Ooh, 9518......that was a really bad week for faults..... Just kidding. There should be some sort of flexible connector (Looks like a braided brake line) or a valve that is shut from your cold water pipework that links to the heating system. Something that will temporarily put water into the system. You open the valve and you will heat water rushing into the system, the black needle on the guage should rise after a minute or so. May be a good idea to post up a picture of the pipework under the boiler. .You have to pressurise it someway as you have no header tank on your system. H. Funny I am going to have to continue tomorrow, as I am knackered today and have an early start tomorrow. Thanks for all the help guys! Much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted September 14, 2008 Author Share Posted September 14, 2008 one last question, probably the most stupid question in the history of the forum... boiler is down stairs in WC, pump is upstairs in airing cupboard with an immursion heater... Is the immursion heater supposed to be off/on?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonball Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 Talk to Trig here on the board - corgi engineer and a damn nice chap too Did my boiler for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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