Steve Gee Posted March 16, 2002 Share Posted March 16, 2002 My second set of Toyo T1-S's in a year, are coming to the end of their life. Each set has done about 12,000 miles. Both sets have performed very well, I used to have Toyos on my Impreza as well, so I know they're good performers. I know I could get more miles, if I switched to a harder compound tyre, but then grip suffers. Does anyone have any comments on compound versus grip? Each set of Toyos cost me about £550 twice a year! Recommendations/comments welcomed. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GavinL Posted March 17, 2002 Share Posted March 17, 2002 Hi... Daft question I know but are you sure you can't get the Toyo's cheaper? I get my Goodyear Eagle F1's from www.micheldever.co.uk, they are a good quality, grippy and reasonably hard wearing and they cost me £415.00. I would be suprised if the Toyo's were that much more expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
francesca Posted March 17, 2002 Share Posted March 17, 2002 I have been running SO3's since May of last year, they transformed the handling & are wearing OK. I paid about £230 each fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mycroft Posted March 17, 2002 Share Posted March 17, 2002 Goodyear Eagle F1's 'Z' 265/40×17's £200 for a pair fitted and balanced, Headley Tyres ,Nr Newbury,Full IR allignment to your or Manufacturers specs £60 (including camber) The guy who does the work knows these cars very well and is fussy, you can stand by the computer and say, 'nah can I have a bit more toe in' or 'lets have the max camber'. My F1's last about a year on the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GavinL Posted March 17, 2002 Share Posted March 17, 2002 Quote: from Mycroft on 11:17 am on Mar. 17, 2002[br]Goodyear Eagle F1's 'Z' 265/40×17's £200 for a pair fitted and balanced, Headley Tyres ,Nr Newbury,Full IR allignment to your or Manufacturers specs £60 (including camber) The guy who does the work knows these cars very well and is fussy, you can stand by the computer and say, 'nah can I have a bit more toe in' or 'lets have the max camber'. My F1's last about a year on the rear. Sadly they only have one left and can't get new stocks for about 4-6 weeks. I have heard that a new version of the F1 is due for release soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted March 17, 2002 Share Posted March 17, 2002 Hey, any of you guys use BF Goodrich TA K/D's they are supposed to grip like hell but arn't good for use on wet weather so much. So I guess you guys in the UK stick with All Weather Performance tires! Ai! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Gee Posted March 17, 2002 Author Share Posted March 17, 2002 Thanks for the replies, but how many miles are you getting out of the different makes? I'm currently doing about 28,000 miles a year. Thanks Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branners Posted March 17, 2002 Share Posted March 17, 2002 You probably need a low wear rate tyre like the F1, pirelli p-zero or michelin pilot sport. Bridgies will go in about 10k miles, the others should be good for about 15k upwards depending how you drive. JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted March 17, 2002 Share Posted March 17, 2002 Used to get about 12k out of rear F1's but the fronts always wore on the inside edges cos I was doing a lot of motorway miles. I've binned fronts with 5mm on the outside and bald on the inside after 7k. Great tyres though. Cheers, Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 I had Dunlop SP8000 on my car. I found the rear tires worn on the inside almost bald and a bit of thread on the outer wall was on? What does it mean when thread wear is mostly concentrated on the inner wall than on the outer wall? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mycroft Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 Too much negative camber for the way you drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 Yo! Mycroft! What do you mean for the way you drive? Explain what it means and what does driving style have to do with too much negative camber? If you think otherwise my car is in awesome condition and I really look after it!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon F Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 Could be worth checking out your rear dampers Randy. If they are slightly weak the car will squat down more than normal under acceleration. (Back to squat here Mycroft!). When the car squats down it picks up a bit more negative camber, and hence you could be accelerating on the inside edges of your tyres. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 Thanks Gordon! Can I make any adjustment with the dampers to prevent it from Squat or do I have to get em replaced? you know its hard to come by many guys to fix supra's or other hi-performance cars here. I have one chap but he is quite busy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mycroft Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 It is not just take off. Look at it this way, if you are of the 'grab the car by the throat' kinda guy then you will need to have that 1½deg neg camber, it will mean fairly even tyre wear!, if you drive smoothly (no less fast, usually faster in fact) then you will need less camber to gain an all round even wear rate! This is something almost every body gets wrong, put simply the goal of setting the Camber correctly is to (in part) get the very best from the tyres, the same load but spread over the whole width of the contact patch evenly means the tyre warms more evenly which means it wears more evenly, which means more grip, so treat those camber settings as a 'good idea', then look at your tyre wear, if you seem to be wearing fiercely on the inside, then you may just be a better driver than you think, reduce your camber a little, and the handling will improve and the tyre will last much longer. To get the best out of your car for the way you drive, just look at your tyres, if they are not evenly worn across the whole width of the tread, you are one of these; 1/. a twonk that drives with the wrong tyre pressure. 2/. a cheapskate who does not maintain his car. 3/. a poor unfortunate who has failed to notice that he is not getting the very best out of the 4 items of the car that actually contact the road...get the geometry sorted. (Edited by Mycroft at 6:52 pm on Mar. 18, 2002) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ash Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 Quote: from randy on 4:41 am on Mar. 18, 2002[br]I had Dunlop SP8000 on my car. I found the rear tires worn on the inside almost bald and a bit of thread on the outer wall was on? What does it mean when thread wear is mostly concentrated on the inner wall than on the outer wall? Could be the rears are toeing out a mile. It happens when the car has been lowered without the geometry being reset. Or maybe your springs/dampers are shot. Yours, J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon F Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 Mycroft What you say is correct, however I do think that you are maybe looking too far into Randy's problem. I'm sure that for 95% of us, Toyota's suspension geometry is more than adequate. As you have indicated, most uneven tyre wear is caused by poor tyre maintenance, wear and tear on suspension components (some not immediately noticeable), and also damage from kerbing etc. If all of these are correct, then have the springs and dampers checked and rated. Altering the camber would be the (very) last resort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mycroft Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 My local alignment place (and I hope all those near you) won't charge if they don't adjust, so taking the car somewhere like that gets it up on a ramp and you can see underneath. Semantics really, but I'd do the camber first so as to rectify any gross wearing of the tyres (or evil handling) then hit all the others ASAP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon F Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 ( Just bringing this back on thread!) I've done a set of rear Yoko AVS Sports down to the wear bars in 5500 miles! Fronts look as good as new! I drive (reasonably) carefully as well! What's the best anyone's got out of a set of AVS's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 Think my AVS's have covered 6-8k miles and are not done yet. Many of those have been M-way type miles...they were "bedded" in at Bentwaters, and have survived a high speed challenge (standing starts and the like) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 There is one thing that was wrong with what I did. I ran with a little lower tire pressure than normal. Will this make the inner wall wear more than the outer wall? I have since got new tires and increased the tire pressure. Currently Rear- 34 psi Front- 36 psi Is this pressure OK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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