TRD DAN Posted August 31, 2008 Author Share Posted August 31, 2008 Don't get me wrong I'm not saying that as soon as you go single costs spiral, but if you go in thinking that all you need to do is get the best parts fitted by the best people then you will have no more hassle after that then you're mistaken. Spiral is probably the wrong word, it indicates a speeding up in money loss, maybe drain is a better word I sound like I'm putting a downer on this for you which isn't my intent, going single is mint, do it right & your post single maintenance costs will be less than doing it wrong. not putting a dower on it at all bud your just being a realist which some people need even me sometimes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 not putting a dower on it at all bud your just being a realist which some people need even me sometimes No probs, I guess it'll prolly help if I tell you what I've learned after my install 1. Stay away from Precision GT4088R's, hell I wouldn't even put a genuine from Garrett themselves now I've wasted over £1500 on them. 2. Front crank oil seal was a pain for me, new oil pump at build time wasn't enough, went through a couple of seals post build, the only thing that fixed mine was a PHR modified pump. I'll add to this list as I think of them, off to bed now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 i wouldnt like to buy one already done as that takes the fun out of it for me , but i just couldnt see why if done right first time round why cost would spiral im not one for cutting corners so im kinda looking forward . the other bonus i have is this engine can be on a stand for as long as i want it to be and just start from there also i get oem parts at a reasonble price working for toyota ok fella, just testing the water to check your committment to make 550 hp isnt to difficult, have you been in a single if no i would suggest you speak to a few members who would be more than happy to impress you with their bad ass car , anything over or aproaching the 500hp mark makes a very quick road car so dont get hung up on numbers, make sure you know exactly what you want from the car then aim for that, for your power figure and a quick road car i would probably go for a good cast manifold as they promote higher exhaust gas velocity (= less lag and better low rpm torque), 650 cc drop-in PE injectors as a minimum or 720cc with a new fuel rail. Avoid anything that starts to push the power up the rev range (big intake plenum, 4" exhaust and 272 cams are out) and you will have a quick spooling lag free (virtually) weapon capable of beating anything this side of a Veyron (good effort Jamie ). Yes you can control a T61 type turbo easily with a piggy back, go for the e-manage ultimate, and dont ignore anything that you have any doubts with on the car, that slighty noisy rear wheel bearing or those budget brand tyres, as Jevansio said, are not going to enjoy the power doubling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 i would probably go for a good cast manifold as they promote higher exhaust gas velocity (= less lag and better low rpm torque) Interesting. I've not heard that before. I would also go for a cast manifold but not for that reason. Can you explain about the good cast manifolds having higher exhaust gas speed? I don't really understand it. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 Interesting. I've not heard that before. I would also go for a cast manifold but not for that reason. Can you explain about the good cast manifolds having higher exhaust gas speed? I don't really understand it. Cheers by increasing the exhaust manifold tubing dimensions (length and diameter) you lower exhaust gas velocity, at low rpm any turbo car wants high gas velocity to spin the turbo up quickly, imagine a kids windmill, and you blow through a straw pointing at the optimum point to spin it up, now try the same but blowing through a hose pipe a bit crude but you get the picture , other factors are the shear surface area of a tubular manifold over a cast one, and for this reason the tubular will radiate a lot more heat, again heat is energy that we want spinning the turbo up, however alls not cut and dried as the shorter cast manifold may suffer cylinder reversion (thats exhaust gas where we want fuel/air mixture) and at a certain point as with the stock manifold the smaller diameters will cap power, i'm not sure where this point is but IIRC Wez runs about 580hp and has an awesome torque curve on i think a PHR manifold, if anyone sees any glaring errors in this please correct me as i have had a "little" red, hic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 Dan I've emailed you the attached spread sheet, parts listed were based on our discussion.TRD DAN.xls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 ok fella, just testing the water to check your committment to make 550 hp isnt to difficult, have you been in a single if no i would suggest you speak to a few members who would be more than happy to impress you with their bad ass car , anything over or aproaching the 500hp mark makes a very quick road car so dont get hung up on numbers, make sure you know exactly what you want from the car then aim for that, for your power figure and a quick road car i would probably go for a good cast manifold as they promote higher exhaust gas velocity (= less lag and better low rpm torque), 650 cc drop-in PE injectors as a minimum or 720cc with a new fuel rail. Avoid anything that starts to push the power up the rev range (big intake plenum, 4" exhaust and 272 cams are out) and you will have a quick spooling lag free (virtually) weapon capable of beating anything this side of a Veyron (good effort Jamie ). Yes you can control a T61 type turbo easily with a piggy back, go for the e-manage ultimate, and dont ignore anything that you have any doubts with on the car, that slighty noisy rear wheel bearing or those budget brand tyres, as Jevansio said, are not going to enjoy the power doubling According to threads ive read on supraforum (not saying they are right) 4" exhaust/down/mid pipe. helps with spool, its certainly not doing my car any harm, give me a couple of weeks and i will report back on what effect the intake manifold has on spool and power with dyno graphs, good or bad:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 3. Size your turbo correctly 1st time round, GT4088R probs asside, I thought it was great at first but now want more power. Maybe a T67 would have been a better first choice for me. The only way to decide is to get in other peoples setups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRD DAN Posted September 1, 2008 Author Share Posted September 1, 2008 ok fella, just testing the water to check your committment to make 550 hp isnt to difficult, have you been in a single if no i would suggest you speak to a few members who would be more than happy to impress you with their bad ass car , anything over or aproaching the 500hp mark makes a very quick road car so dont get hung up on numbers, make sure you know exactly what you want from the car then aim for that, for your power figure and a quick road car i would probably go for a good cast manifold as they promote higher exhaust gas velocity (= less lag and better low rpm torque), 650 cc drop-in PE injectors as a minimum or 720cc with a new fuel rail. Avoid anything that starts to push the power up the rev range (big intake plenum, 4" exhaust and 272 cams are out) and you will have a quick spooling lag free (virtually) weapon capable of beating anything this side of a Veyron (good effort Jamie ). Yes you can control a T61 type turbo easily with a piggy back, go for the e-manage ultimate, and dont ignore anything that you have any doubts with on the car, that slighty noisy rear wheel bearing or those budget brand tyres, as Jevansio said, are not going to enjoy the power doubling i have been in a single yes cant remember , what size turbo it was from memory but believe it was in the region of 700hp but i didnt like it , the power just wouldnt go down atall and it felt undrivable and all power was up top. completely agree with what you said there, if you have doubt there is a reason, you have that doubt so replace it budget tyres with this type of car are a deffinate no go lol but cheers for everything you have mentioned its sometimes easy to forget about the simpler things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 According to threads ive read on supraforum (not saying they are right) 4" exhaust/down/mid pipe. helps with spool Jamie i'm not exactly sure whats going on here with the 4" (at least on my car) and doing a lot of reading on the net has not helped me understand it either some say backpressure = low rpm torque others disagree, it seems to be with cylinder scavenging, none of my tuning books elude to it either, i think i should have refrained from mentioning it in spool/lag terms as i think it has nothing to do with them and more to do with conventional engine tuning. However this is not all theory as my experience is first hand, when i fitted the Boostlogic 4" it killed low rpm torque stone dead and made the car absolutely awefull to drive (not to mention the noise) it was gutless up to about 3500 rpm which i'm sure you'll agree is p**s poor for a T61, conversly when i had my cat in for an MOT i was shocked at how fast the car picked up, it was just as quick off the mark as when it had the j-spec ceramics, obviously if you ran the car on a dyno the 4" is going to totaly outperform a Dragger with a cat in but for me it lead to the conclusion you need to be somewhere in the middle to balance low speed torque and peak power, if someone could definatively tell me whats going on i would be greatfull (sorry for the slight highjack Dan) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 Yea, seems odd to me that it would aid spool but when you compare mine to other cars on Ryan's site im out spooling every other T67 by a long way, granted some of them have cams which would not help but im pretty sure im the only T67 car running 4"down and mid pipe. There is a couple of threads on supraforum regarding it but i cant find them now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 (edited) Yea, seems odd to me that it would aid spool but when you compare mine to other cars on Ryan's site im out spooling every other T67 by a long way, granted some of them have cams which would not help but im pretty sure im the only T67 car running 4"down and mid pipe. There is a couple of threads on supraforum regarding it but i cant find them now. it may be dependent on the mix and match of bits we all have on our cars Jamie, when i put the 4" on it really was one of those wtf moments when you think something is broke it was that dramatic which was a shame as i love the look of the BL, perhaps some cars respond well to the big exhaust and others not, with consideration to your 4" down and mid this is defo something i would consider and may be one of the reasons yours spools so well and i had issues with a 3" into 4" which is pretty pointless from a exhaust gas point of view and should really be the other way round, i just though i would flag it up for peeps to consider Edited September 1, 2008 by paul mac (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Yea, seems odd to me that it would aid spool but when you compare mine to other cars on Ryan's site im out spooling every other T67 by a long way, granted some of them have cams which would not help but im pretty sure im the only T67 car running 4"down and mid pipe. There is a couple of threads on supraforum regarding it but i cant find them now. I have the BL 4" DP/MP and Catback system on mine, although it is not fully mapped yet. Just sorting out a larger FMIC then will go and see Ryan again to get it finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Not read the whole thread but who is doing the work for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 I have the BL 4" DP/MP and Catback system on mine, although it is not fully mapped yet. Just sorting out a larger FMIC then will go and see Ryan again to get it finished Ahh nice, be interesting to see:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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