EdMorris Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 Right, the TB can be broken down to it's base components. All you really need is a the TB wheel, the sensor, plate, and shaft. Everything else around the body can be ground down or removed to fit. On the relocation kit, it's very easy to install. The hardest part will be deciding where to route your lines. It may be a good idea to think about an external oil cooler as well. I'm running a B&M -10AN oil cooler inseries with my oil filter lines and a random oil relocation kit like this one: http://circuit-parts.ch/cpshop/images/d8e6_1.jpg Thanks Eric. I'll see if any of the traders on here can supply a similar kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowboy bebop Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 As promised, pics of the engine installed. Its minus the intake for the moment as it was easier to fit the lift hooks without it in position. Still a long way to go until the whole car is finished, but this is a milestone in terms of the build. WOW, that is beautiful. More and mroe to me the toyota V8 looks like it's the proper engine for the MKIV Supra. Sometimes when I see a 2jz in the bay, I get the feeling that it's the entirely wrong engine Also on the waterneck, if you have to, you can trim the 45 degree bend off. That leaves you only a straight portion to deal with, and on that straight portion you can clamp on a silicon hose to the radiator. A word tot he wise though, make sure you clamp on the hose tight before you put the intake mani on. Once the intake mani is on, that area will be hard to get to. Thanks again!! Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 WOW, that is beautiful. More and mroe to me the toyota V8 looks like it's the proper engine for the MKIV Supra. Sometimes when I see a 2jz in the bay, I get the feeling that it's the entirely wrong engine Also on the waterneck, if you have to, you can trim the 45 degree bend off. That leaves you only a straight portion to deal with, and on that straight portion you can clamp on a silicon hose to the radiator. A word tot he wise though, make sure you clamp on the hose tight before you put the intake mani on. Once the intake mani is on, that area will be hard to get to. Thanks again!! Eric I suppose I can now officially say that I have a V8 supra? Thanks for the tip on the water neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 Need some advice on this one - oil cooling. I've been looking into mounting a cooler while I'm relocating my filter. Space is, as most of you will know, quite tight. I wanted to fit one in the nearside headlight/indicator space, but after a conversation with merlin motosport, it appears the cooler size needs to bigger than I can comfortably fit in there. He then suggested a laminova heat exchanger type cooler. I did a search on here and wondered if anyone (CW?) has any thoughts on using this with my engine. It would make things a lot easier, but would it be sufficient? Any downside to using one? I suppose I could fit a fin type cooler in front of the rad where there is more space, but that means taking the front bumper/active spoiler off to gain good access, which I really don't want to do as its all finished paintwork. Any thoughts greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Well, you're not going to need an intercooler any more, so why not daisy chain two oil coolers together, one in each side pod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 Well, you're not going to need an intercooler any more, so why not daisy chain two oil coolers together, one in each side pod? Ah, now thats a great idea. I was so busy trying to make my simple diagram work that it didn't even cross my mind to run 2 smaller coolers. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz6002 Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 How about a cooler under the rear of the car, like the FD RX7? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 How about a cooler under the rear of the car, like the FD RX7? Thats possible too I suppose. Decisions, decisions.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 Ah, now thats a great idea. I was so busy trying to make my simple diagram work that it didn't even cross my mind to run 2 smaller coolers. Thanks. Just make sure you use nice big hoses: -10 minimum, preferably -12. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted July 2, 2009 Author Share Posted July 2, 2009 Just make sure you use nice big hoses: -10 minimum, preferably -12. A topic for further conversation, I think. Most owners seem to use -10 or massive -12 for the oil lines. Speaking to the guys who sell the stuff, they reckon -8 is fine seeing as the system is pressurised. Having a bigger fitting and hose will make no difference in efficiency. The smaller size reduces the cost as the fittings and hose are cheaper and so it seems odd to me that sellers would recommend this when they can sell the bigger stuff at a higher price if its really preferable. Discuss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supraGZaerotop Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 what sort of power will this produce and how will it compare to a TT supra? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted July 2, 2009 Author Share Posted July 2, 2009 About 400bhp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 A topic for further conversation, I think. Most owners seem to use -10 or massive -12 for the oil lines. Speaking to the guys who sell the stuff, they reckon -8 is fine seeing as the system is pressurised. Having a bigger fitting and hose will make no difference in efficiency. The smaller size reduces the cost as the fittings and hose are cheaper and so it seems odd to me that sellers would recommend this when they can sell the bigger stuff at a higher price if its really preferable. Discuss. the only reason to install bigger lines would be to keep the system pressure down, if the specialists are recomending -8 i would go with that and keep an eye on oil pressure (particularly when cold) with a peak and hold pressure gauge. Keeping pipe runs as short as possible and mounting the cooler in such a way as to minimise 90 degree bends would also help keep pressures at managable levels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted July 2, 2009 Author Share Posted July 2, 2009 I agree. The hose specialists have advised me and I've gone with that. Time will tell if its the right decision. Thanks for the input guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted July 2, 2009 Author Share Posted July 2, 2009 Propshaft was todays task, and a few snags came up. Sorry for long post. Couple of questions at the end. First, the gearbox mount didn't really line up well when I installed the trans (see pics 1,2). I forced the mount forwards towards the front of the car in order to put the bolts in. I got it to mate up and the rubber took up the tension but I wasn't really happy with it. Anyway it was left like that until today. After offering up the propshaft and bolting it in I realised that moving the trans forward a bit (by doing the above), left an 8mm gap from the diff flange to the prop. Also, the centre support bracket was not lining up well either. After removing the trans mount and loosening the engine mount nuts a bit to allow a little movement, the gap has now been reduced to about 4mm (see pic 3, middle bolt - that green looking washer should sit inside the flange). So, I tightened the bolts mating the prop to the trans. I thought I could then just tighten the bolts mating the diff to the prop, and the centre support bolts, then measure up for a new trans mount to be made that will line up perfectly. I did this, but noticed that the shaft was not being brought flush with the diff flange, just the rubber mounting bending out of shape at the point where the bolts are. So, with the Toyota manual as reference, I see that there is an adjusting nut on the front part of the prop (see pic 4). I'm not sure exactly how this works as the manual is not very clear, but I'm assuming I can take up the 4mm gap by effectively extending the front part of the prop using this adjusting nut. Am I correct, or is there more to it? Has anyone done a similar operation on their car? Also, its a brand new shaft, if that makes a difference? I suppose an alternative is to make a 4mm spacer to fit between the prop and trans faces, and this might actually be simpler than getting involved trying to change the shaft length. Any thoughts greatly received. Thanks, Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee from China Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Well, you're not going to need an intercooler any more, so why not daisy chain two oil coolers together, one in each side pod? Dont mean this in a nasty way but as Ed's car is a NA he never actually had an intercooler in the first place! But your suggestion was/is a good one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 (edited) Anyone done the propshaft adjustment I mentioned, or even replaced the front portion at some time? Edited July 7, 2009 by EdMorris Spelling error (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 As I recall the centre sliding section just slides and the nut doesn't and can't, lock up the sliding splines. I'd have thought there would be enough extension to accommodate the box and engine being a few mm further forward, it may be stuck due to the grease hardening in storage (it was probably made 15 years or more ago). The gearbox rear mount will need re fabricating, or new holes put in the chassis rails and captive nuts welding in (big job also). The manual goes to great pains about relative front and rear propshaft angles, to the point of obsessiveness. You'll know if there's an issue as you'll get either a thumping from the centre support bearing mount on take off, or a vibration from the prop when under way. If you pull the front section of the prop right out of the rear section be VERY careful. The front and rear U/J's are phased, and the sections need to go back EXACTLY as they come apart, so mark the splines before they separate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 Thanks for the reply Chris. I'm having a new mount fabbed up as we speak, which is gonna be about £170 due to the work involved and the ally being pricey. I also asked the chap making it for me about the prop. I took it with me for him to look at and you've just confirmed what his thoughts were, especially regarding the UJ's. He seems to think the nut grips some kind of collet arrangement that still allows movement in the shaft. I've personally never seen this kind of shaft before which is why its confusing me. I'll have another look at it now. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee from China Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Coming along nicely. Has Vinnie finished all the trimming now? when do you plan on completing? Cant wait to see it all together! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 It may have a water / dirt seal under it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 Coming along nicely. Has Vinnie finished all the trimming now? when do you plan on completing? Cant wait to see it all together! Should be finished with the door cards, rear quarter and boot panels by saturday. Have to take some parts back for minor repair due to the heat lately, but after that its pretty much done. I still need to decide what I'm doing with the gear shift panel too. Not sure if I'll meet the suprapod deadline now though. Still have to wire the engine in, plumb it in, etc. Taking a while to sort this. Plus exhaust to be made and rear hubs to clean up and mount. Loads really, and I'm back to work now so less time to spare. Shame, I wanted to have it ready for the pod. Gutted actually Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Ed, I can confirm the prop does slide in and out without touching the nut. I picked mine up and the front section fell off There is easily enough adjustibility to take up 4mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 Ed, I can confirm the prop does slide in and out without touching the nut. I picked mine up and the front section fell off There is easily enough adjustibility to take up 4mm. Brilliant, thanks for that. I got bogged down yesterday evening cleaning the 6 speed hubs that will replace my n/a ones, so didn't get a chance to check it out. It must just be a little stuck, and as Chris mentioned its probably been sat around for quite some time. Thats a relief. My new gearbox support bracket should be ready tomorrow so I can try and fit it all up then. I'll let ya know how I get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted July 9, 2009 Author Share Posted July 9, 2009 I got my custom gearbox bracket today and I can tell you its a thing of glory (pics to follow soon). Great job by Gary at Tak engineering in Slough, he comes highly recommended by me for all your custom bits and bobs. Tell him I sent you if you ever use him. However, todays job was doing the left rear hub. Got the suspension arms off ok, but noticed all the ball joints need replacing as there is too much play in them and the rubbers are badly worn. Also, most of the bushes have seen better days. So, I'll be replacing all the main rear components on both sides (stock parts, unless there are better options?), which I expect will make a huge change to the handling once its all set up properly and a huge dent in my current account (goes to have another chat to the bank manager...). I need some prices on these parts if any of the traders are reading? Also, the exhaust is going to be just under a grand to build. Thats everything excluding the manifold which I already have. The guys are powerflow fitters and have done numerous magazine featured cars. Anyone had experience of powerflow products? I'm not certain I'm going to use them but they are local which would be a bonus. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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