Matt H Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 Looks like a top notch job mate. Really really impressed. Altough not 100% sure about the seat choices, the workmanship on them looks second to none! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 You aren't leaving those washers under the flywheel bolts are you Ed? Unless they are ground and hardened it's a real no no, and even ANY washer is to be frowned on unless an integral part of the bolt, which MUST be top, top quality. I have never seen a BZP *hardened* washer, so I suspect they are punched mild steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted May 27, 2009 Author Share Posted May 27, 2009 You aren't leaving those washers under the flywheel bolts are you Ed? Unless they are ground and hardened it's a real no no, and even ANY washer is to be frowned on unless an integral part of the bolt, which MUST be top, top quality. I have never seen a BZP *hardened* washer, so I suspect they are punched mild steel. D'oh! I thought as the original bolts had a washer (albeit 'integrated'), that I would use some too. Thought I was making things better rather than worse. Do I need to use special high tensile bolts too? Looks like the gearbox is coming off again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 Sorry, but this is a big thing. You need to use bolts of the correct tensile strength, ( ARP have the after market sewn up), with either a built in washer, or a hardened, ground washer. A loose or free flywheel is ALWAYS very bad news, for safety or crank longevity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted May 28, 2009 Author Share Posted May 28, 2009 Right, better get that sorted then. Cheers Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Yep, it's important, I can almost guarantee the flywheel will work loose as it is. Can you use the original flywheel bolts for a 2UZ, or is it a none stock flywheel you are using? ARP will have something, or you can see if any other Toyota uses something of the right length and thread et cetera. You need at least 2 x the thread diameter of threads engaged in the crank threads, and the flywheel holes should be seated virtually entirely on the shoulders of the bolts, not on the threads. If you get really stuck use top quality cap heads (Unbrako or something well respected) with no washers, but if it's a "funny" thread you probably won't find cap heads are available to suit. ARP may be able to match something though. I think I have the ARP master catalogue somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 I sent ARP an email regarding their specific flywheel bolts and getting some made to suit if possible. Waiting to hear back. Its a standard M10 1.25 thread, but due to the shape of the clutch backplate I had to use another spacer for everything to match up and sit flush. This makes the standard bolts too short to fit. My local fasteners place stocks Unbrako bolts. Its where I gat all my bolts from. I'll ask them too. Any idea on the torque for these bolts once I get them? I used the settings from the supra manual as I thought it would be a good guide (49Nm plus an additional 80-100%). Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 I sent ARP an email regarding their specific flywheel bolts and getting some made to suit if possible. Waiting to hear back. Its a standard M10 1.25 thread, but due to the shape of the clutch backplate I had to use another spacer for everything to match up and sit flush. This makes the standard bolts too short to fit. My local fasteners place stocks Unbrako bolts. Its where I gat all my bolts from. I'll ask them too. Any idea on the torque for these bolts once I get them? I used the settings from the supra manual as I thought it would be a good guide (49Nm plus an additional 80-100%). Cheers. See on your photo where the heads are marked "8.8"? The bolts you want will be "10.9". Most socket cap heads are 10.9 as standard. If you buy off the shelf then get self coloured (black) ones as BZP high tensile bolts can sometimes be brittle. A 10.9 flywheel bolt will need to be tightened to yeild, so the Toyta spec is probably a good place to start. I think (but I don't know) than a lot of aftermarket bolts like ARP are 12.9 so they can be tightened to give the same clamp load without stretching the bolt, so they can be re-used. The downside is that torque tightening is a lot less accurate that torque and angle or proper yeild tightening using a torque-sensing wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 Aha, thats a similar to a reply from clublexus, although your explanation includes where one can find tensile strength markings on the bolt. I never knew this, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 Well, they're not all marked the same way But any fastener supplier worth their salt will know what you want if you specify a 10.9 or a 12.9 fastener. Unbrako certainly will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 Great advice chaps as always. As a side this came the other day. Massive 90mm throttle body from a Nissan Q45. Will mate up perfectly with Eric's custom intake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt H Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stel Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 looks great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 Question - are the engine mounts for TT and N/A the same? Specifically, the distance between the threaded bit and the small 'nipple' that locates the mount. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted June 23, 2009 Author Share Posted June 23, 2009 ENGINE IN THE CAR!!! Very good day today. A couple of mates helped me squeeze the V8 lump into the bay, and apart from a little faffing about with the engine mount brackets (I had them on the wrong sides to begin with ), it all went pretty smoothly. I installed the engine together with the transmission, as I thought it would be easier to torque the trans bolts up off the car. Its very tight in there between the strut towers and the engine sits way back, so lots of space up front. I'm so chuffed to finally see it in the bay. I'll get some pics up tmrw for you guys, after I've cleaned things up a bit. Got some time off work too so I intend to crack on with things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowboy bebop Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 NOW THAT IS OUTSTANDING NEWS!!! Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted June 23, 2009 Author Share Posted June 23, 2009 I know, its been a long time coming but its finally in. Thanks for all your help with the mounts issue, Eric. I sourced some brand new OEM sc400 ones from Belgium in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowboy bebop Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 No problem at all. With those stock isolators, the engine should drop in perfectly. In for pics. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted June 23, 2009 Author Share Posted June 23, 2009 Yep, just a bit of jiggling around, moving and tying up pipes/hoses, and it seated fine. Quick question. Will the standard oil filter fit in there? Looks like it might foul the roll bar, but I've not tried it yet. Also, did you manage to get any pics of your modified throttle body, Eric? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowboy bebop Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 The oil filter will foul the sway bar, so what I did was to install a relocation kit. The oil filter is now up front, just within reach. Here are the pics of the TB. Not the bet pics, but you can get the idea. All of the excess can be trimmed and/or removed, leaving just a basic design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 (edited) Glad it's coming along now, you deserve total success, given your attention to detail. Edited June 24, 2009 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 The oil filter will foul the sway bar, so what I did was to install a relocation kit. The oil filter is now up front, just within reach. Here are the pics of the TB. Not the bet pics, but you can get the idea. All of the excess can be trimmed and/or removed, leaving just a basic design. Thanks Eric, just to confirm. The small pipe fittings at the back of the TB can be removed too, as they foul the intake, and the only bits left attached are the electrics and the throttle cable. Correct? Also, is the relocation of the filter an easy job? Can I simply modify or make up a new bracket, or is it more involved than that? Looks like it only needs to come out and forward a bit to clear the bar. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 Glad it's coming along now, you deserve total success, given your attention to deatail. I couldn't have got this far without your help Chris, and many others of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 As promised, pics of the engine installed. Its minus the intake for the moment as it was easier to fit the lift hooks without it in position. Still a long way to go until the whole car is finished, but this is a milestone in terms of the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowboy bebop Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Thanks Eric, just to confirm. The small pipe fittings at the back of the TB can be removed too, as they foul the intake, and the only bits left attached are the electrics and the throttle cable. Correct? Also, is the relocation of the filter an easy job? Can I simply modify or make up a new bracket, or is it more involved than that? Looks like it only needs to come out and forward a bit to clear the bar. Cheers. Right, the TB can be broken down to it's base components. All you really need is a the TB wheel, the sensor, plate, and shaft. Everything else around the body can be ground down or removed to fit. On the relocation kit, it's very easy to install. The hardest part will be deciding where to route your lines. It may be a good idea to think about an external oil cooler as well. I'm running a B&M -10AN oil cooler inseries with my oil filter lines and a random oil relocation kit like this one: http://circuit-parts.ch/cpshop/images/d8e6_1.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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