Supra V8 2uz project

[JamieP]

Anyone know of such a place?

 

 

Shame you have to pull the engine out, AFR have a engine dyno Ed.

[EdMorris]

Shame you have to pull the engine out, AFR have a engine dyno Ed.

 

Excellent, thanks Jamie

 

It is a shame since it was so close to being ready. Still, chin up and all that.

[Chris Wilson]

You don't need to cut the sealant, you are probably being too mumsy with it, get a bit more manly and see what happens If you want to e-mail me some decent photos of what joint you are trying to part I'll see if I can help you out.

[EdMorris]

You don't need to cut the sealant, you are probably being too mumsy with it, get a bit more manly and see what happens If you want to e-mail me some decent photos of what joint you are trying to part I'll see if I can help you out.

 

Could be, I'm just getting so paranoid about it. I'll take some pics tomorrow.

[EdMorris]

Progress.

 

I persevered getting the sump pan off without pulling the motor. Turns out I was being a little girl about it. I did slightly bend one corner but that was tapped back into shape well enough. However, I had to shave the cross member a bit as the lip of the pan wouldn't clear it, long story...

 

Once off it was inspected and as predicted there was a lack of sealant around the area of the drip/leak. The issue has been rectified and after starting the motor we are now two days with no oil leaks. I think I have a result!!!

 

The oil warning light is still coming on though, so I will swap out the pressure sender for a new one to eliminate that, and take it from there. Any other thoughts?

 

Attention now back to the clutch. I ordered a new AP racing 3/4 inch bore master cylinder which I received the very next day (by talking to Mark at AP racing - top bloke, and Tim Phillips at Circuit Supplies - another top bloke). My release bearing should work better with this, and I should get more travel at the bearing, which is what I need. I'm currently having a plate machined to accept the slightly different flange shape of the new cylinder and then I can mount it on the bulkhead. I need to install a remote reservoir as there is no clearance on top of the new master cylinder. Plate and reservoir should be with me tomorrow or wednesday, so will update shortly after with any results. Oh, and I'm going to ditch the standard clutch hard pipe in favour of a braided line straight into the bearing.

 

I feel like I'm moving forward again, which is a really great feeling.

[Chris Wilson]

Sounds good, that should sort it out.

[EdMorris]

Sounds good, that should sort it out.

 

Chris, I had to go for the offset one in the end due to the odd shape of the bulkhead. I guess thats why the standard one is offset. I'll get some pics up when done.

[Chris Wilson]

OK, would be interested to see those, thanks.

[EdMorris]

Below are the pics of the new cylinder and adapter plate, plus some of it installed on the car with the new clutch line plumbed in. You can also see the remote bleeder line which attaches to the bearing as well. In addition, you'll notice that I now have an issue with mounting the remote reservoir (I tied it up just to test the system).

 

Anyway, I now have a working clutch

 

However, I'm not getting the increase in travel that I was expecting. The release point is still quite low on the pedal despite the larger bore master cylinder, but at least it works and shifts ok. It must be said that my working clearance between bearing and clutch fingers is a bit out due to an earlier setting up issue of my own making. As the clutch beds in and wears a bit, this should come back to me a little. For now I'm happy the whole system works and I can change gear, albeit rather noisily.

[EdMorris]

While I was under there with the camera, I took a pic of the underside showing some of the exhaust piping.

[Ricky49]

Looking good

[MarkR]

Those exhausts look great

[EdMorris]

Those exhausts look great

 

The manifolds are even better, but I can't get a decent picture.

[Chris Wilson]

Does the pedal go to the floor before the slave cylinder runs out of travel? Or is the stroke of the cylinder the limitation? I am wondering if the short stroke of the short cylinder isn't displacing enough volume of fluid before the piston bottoms? You can get bigger than .75 bore cylinders if needed, but the pedal may get a bit heavy. If the pedal bottoms before the cylinder you MIGHT be able to weld up the original clevis hole in the pedal and re drill nearer the foot pad a touch, the pushrod ball end will accept some misalignment. You would then get a bit more cylinder travel V pedal movement.

[Chris Wilson]

Re the reservoir. You *COULD* bleed it with the reservoir tied up like you show it, then turn the M/C upside down and have the reservoir just a tad higher. Once bled the M/C will work fine inverted.

[EdMorris]

Does the pedal go to the floor before the slave cylinder runs out of travel? Or is the stroke of the cylinder the limitation? I am wondering if the short stroke of the short cylinder isn't displacing enough volume of fluid before the piston bottoms? You can get bigger than .75 bore cylinders if needed, but the pedal may get a bit heavy. If the pedal bottoms before the cylinder you MIGHT be able to weld up the original clevis hole in the pedal and re drill nearer the foot pad a touch, the pushrod ball end will accept some misalignment. You would then get a bit more cylinder travel V pedal movement.

 

There is about the right amount of pedal travel to the biting point, but then you don't get full release till the pedal is just off the floor. Its odd as the QM bearing info says that a 1" stroke 3/4" cylinder is recommended. Ok, so my clearance is out by about 0.5 - 1mm max, but surely its not that? Is it really that critical and such a low tolerance?

[EdMorris]

Re the reservoir. You *COULD* bleed it with the reservoir tied up like you show it, then turn the M/C upside down and have the reservoir just a tad higher. Once bled the M/C will work fine inverted.

 

Really? That seems most odd to me. Also, I don't think my braided line would take the twist, would it?

 

I'm sure I can get this sorted some other way. Perhaps even get a custom offset reservoir fabricated.

[EdMorris]

Took the car for a test drive yesterday. Not good. She's undriveable, with no power steering (not sure on that yet), and a clutch that is both too heavy and too fierce. This wretched clutch will be the death of me. Biting point is way too low so its like an on/off switch. Also, it sounds horrible. Clattery, grindy and very loud. Is this normal? I expected some noise but this is terrible. I think I've taken a really nice N/A supra and ruined it.

 

I'm at my wits end with this thing. Does anyone know whether I can use a different clutch set up, maybe even a standard supra one, with this engine? Failing that, does anyone with more knowledge of these things fancy taking a look at it?

[Chris Wilson]

Remind me what clutch is in it please. HKS multi plates are, in my opinion, a joke, and are harsh as hell. ALL sintered plate multi plate clutches rattle save some ultra rare OE ones (eg Renault 5 Turbo 2 mid engined road car). Don't sepair, just teething trouble, I'll recite my Skyline woes from its first two outings if it makes you feel any better Nothing very dramatic wrong, just needs money throwing at it

[EdMorris]

just needs money throwing at it

 

Yeah, I thought that. Seems I keep doing it, but for no reward.

 

Anyway, its a Quarter Master 'extreme V', twin plate 8.5". Can't seem to find it on their website now to show you but thats what its called.

[Chris Wilson]

I'll happily take a look at it for you Ed.

[EdMorris]

I'll give you a bell Chris.

[evinX]

Have you fitted the interior yet? id like to see some pics of the car and the interior fitted, your colour combination is awesome.

[EdMorris]

Nah not yet, Vince can't take the car until the 20th June at the earliest, which is a shame.

 

However, I did put the drivers seat in yesterday to road test it. I could go and take a teaser pic if you want?

[MarkR]

Yes please