AlexM Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 I've just been changing my pads, on the rears I lost one of the clips that connects the two pads - how important are these, and what are they called for me to get a replacement? I had a piston stuck on one front caliper, managed to free it and changed the pads. The pad I removed had very uneven wear (1-2mm difference from one end to the other), I presume this stuck caliper is the culprit? I pumped the brakes and found I could no longer move the disc with my bare hands, I put the wheel on but it is very hard to move as the pads are hard against the disc - has the caliper stuck again? I haven't tried the other front side yet since but I'm hoping that one will at least go without issue! Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 I pumped the brakes and found I could no longer move the disc with my bare hands, I put the wheel on but it is very hard to move as the pads are hard against the disc - has the caliper stuck again? If the new pads are dragging and the piston is semi seized it will get very very hot in a short drive. Personally i would open up the top of the caliper as you did to change the pads, place one of the old pads inbetween the new ones (this is with the caliper still angled away form the disk) and centralise them so both pistons are well away from the pads. Get someone to press the brake pedal while you watch the pistons, a semi seized one will be reluctant to move. If one does seem seized then clamp (you may be able to just use your hands) a pad over the good piston and get your assistant to gently apply the brakes again, this should force the other piston to move (careful you don't pop it out of the caliper!) unless its really seized. I'd try and push it back and forth a few times and definitely try and get it so you can rotate the wheel after pumping the pedal (there will always be a little resistance) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 oh also, when the caliper was off to do the pads did the bolts left in the calipers (the ones with the rubber boots and part of the same bolt where you removed/loosened the two 14mm nuts) move in and out freely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted August 7, 2008 Author Share Posted August 7, 2008 I didn't try sliding the pins on this one, I will have a go when I take it off again. I'll try the rest as well, thanks! Car won't be moving until I know it's right, clutch needs changing anyway. I don't suppose you know the purpose of the little mental clips are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 The clips are to stop the pads rattling/squealing. Are yours 1 pot rears? See EPC images attached Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted August 8, 2008 Author Share Posted August 8, 2008 The clips are to stop the pads rattling/squealing. Are yours 1 pot rears? See EPC images attached Yup, thanks Nic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 The springy 'clips' are to push the pads apart so they dont rest on the disc during normal driving. Got some new one's from toyota for £4.50. I'd advise changing them as they will suffer from metal fatigue and become less effective, cause the pads to rest on the disc's and will cause excessive wear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted August 8, 2008 Author Share Posted August 8, 2008 The springy 'clips' are to push the pads apart so they dont rest on the disc during normal driving. Got some new one's from toyota for £4.50. I'd advise changing them as they will suffer from metal fatigue and become less effective, cause the pads to rest on the disc's and will cause excessive wear. Is that £4.50 for a full set or a pair of clips? All of the clips have been very rusty, on both cars - perhaps worth replacing the lot.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonahjones26 Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 f*cking hell alex you didn't change your own pads did you? please don't drive too fast! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonahjones26 Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 were they easy to do??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted August 8, 2008 Author Share Posted August 8, 2008 were they easy to do??? The ones that weren't a problem, yeah. I had absolutely no confidence when I went in to do the first one, had someone help me out doing the fronts on the red car. Dived in and did the back pads on the white car myself, no problem. It's easy when you've done it once! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted August 15, 2008 Author Share Posted August 15, 2008 (edited) If the new pads are dragging and the piston is semi seized it will get very very hot in a short drive. Personally i would open up the top of the caliper as you did to change the pads, place one of the old pads inbetween the new ones (this is with the caliper still angled away form the disk) and centralise them so both pistons are well away from the pads. Get someone to press the brake pedal while you watch the pistons, a semi seized one will be reluctant to move. If one does seem seized then clamp (you may be able to just use your hands) a pad over the good piston and get your assistant to gently apply the brakes again, this should force the other piston to move (careful you don't pop it out of the caliper!) unless its really seized. I'd try and push it back and forth a few times and definitely try and get it so you can rotate the wheel after pumping the pedal (there will always be a little resistance) oh also, when the caliper was off to do the pads did the bolts left in the calipers (the ones with the rubber boots and part of the same bolt where you removed/loosened the two 14mm nuts) move in and out freely? The sliding bolts moved ok. I just went for a very short drive, could hear the right rear rubbing. I stopped, both front sets and the right rear were stinking hot, left rear hadn't even cleared the rust off the disc (Wondering if the left rear was working properly). The pistons on the front right and rear right moved quite easily, though I had to use some leverage on all of them. The pad I took off the front right piston side also had uneven wear. Is there something more sinister going on here? Edited August 15, 2008 by AlexM (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordy07 Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 Im not sure mate but it will be interesting to find out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted August 16, 2008 Author Share Posted August 16, 2008 Well, I did everything Scooter suggested today and it looks like my calipers need replacing/refurbishing (whichever works out cheaper). Worked the sticky piston in/out about 6 times on the front right and while it did make it a lot better, it was still dragging a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordy07 Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 Hope you get this sorted alex.Let me know(by pm if you want)how much a refurb costs matey if you get it done,cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 Well, I did everything Scooter suggested today and it looks like my calipers need replacing/refurbishing (whichever works out cheaper). Worked the sticky piston in/out about 6 times on the front right and while it did make it a lot better, it was still dragging a little. there are normally cheap second hand sets about but these will usually be old too...... You could try and do a semi permanent repair yourself, if you are confident you can bleed the brakes? You could open up the caliper and leaving only the pad furthest from the pistons press the pedal to extend the pistons out a long way. Then detach the brake hose from the caliper and use some pliers/grips on the pistons to remove them completely from the caliper. Only grip on the very end of the piston, after the ridge to avoid damaging the surface that actually slides in the caliper bore. Its likely the piston will have a defined ridge on it somewhere so smooth this off and clean thoroughly the inside of the caliper too and refit with some fresh brake fluid as lubrication (search for some specific threads on this if you feel confident enough to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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