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Ultimate Pro street Drag supra!


StuartW

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cheers for that, is there a easier mani to access?

 

The faces will be milled and carefully checked before assembly and leak tested regularly;)

 

Not really the are all tight, the Veilside manifold has a grove on the throttle body with a large o ring which seals it to the manifold. They also use the same technique on the runners to manifold with a rubber seal round the edge of the runners.

 

As this manifold does not have this make sure both surfaces are completely flat and use some good silicone sealent on both and you may be ok. Or you could mill a grove in the throttle body and runners and locate a sutible seal but that may be more difficault.

 

Hope this helps. :)

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Looks very impressive , be very interesting to see what power you get out of it , will those brakes be suitable for road use !

 

Well i am very hopeful of 750whp to start with as that has been achieved with a near exact set up as this reliably from a friend ;)

 

I am also hoping to loose the best part of half a ton of weight on my next weigh in :innocent:

 

The brakes will be okay for road squirts, i will also have the chute armed at all times. I also have full Strange rear disc's (12 inch) and massive drum hand/emergency brakes. Also my Powerglide although Auto it is actually manual so i could shift down do aid with engine breaking.

 

I have been told the Parachute will generally half a vehicles speed in 3 seconds :blink:

 

i can just picture the crash scene...No officer my chute opened all by itself onto that scoobies windshield

:p
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Well i am very hopeful of 750whp to start with as that has been achieved with a near exact set up as this reliably from a friend ;)

 

I am also hoping to loose the best part of half a ton of weight on my next weigh in :innocent:

 

The brakes will be okay for road squirts, i will also have the chute armed at all times. I also have full Strange rear disc's (12 inch) and massive drum hand/emergency brakes. Also my Powerglide although Auto it is actually manual so i could shift down do aid with engine breaking.

 

I have been told the Parachute will generally half a vehicles speed in 3 seconds :blink:

 

i can just picture the crash scene...No officer my chute opened all by itself onto that scoobies windshield

:p
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Think it might make news at 10 if that was to happen lol.

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Stuart,

 

Can you get some pics of your Lexan windows up please mate

 

Ryan

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=85167&d=1232210470

 

 

The Rear screen surround just clips over the glass before you bond it in :)

 

You can use you old one if you do not damage it whilst cutting out the original glass.

 

I have not fitted the door glass yet but it is a direct match to OEM glass. In color and contour...

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Edited by StuartW (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

OOh i had some goodies arrive!

 

Pic 1 Lokar Transmission dipstick

attachment.php?attachmentid=86440&d=1232210470

 

Pic 2 Custom made ATI Torque convertor 1100hp rated 4200rpm stall :D

Pic 3 2Jz to Powerglide Custom ATI Flex Plate

Pic 4 Lokar/Strange Stainless steel handbrake Cable system

Pic 5 Full Bespoke Jap to USA Hardware Bolt kit

Pic 6 All fittings to complete the braking system and Line lock

Pic 7 ATF "F" Fluid + Spare

Pic 8 Shows the How the Custom TC has been Coverted to mate Jap to USA!

Pic 9 Flex plate Mounted to TC.

 

I have mocked up all the Transmission parts..Happy days!

 

Can someone tell me how to make these pictures full page?

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Edited by StuartW (see edit history)
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Today i mocked up the flex plate and the Torque converter. I have an issue with the TC not being hub centric (Yet) but am hoping ATI will rectify this ASAP.

 

Because the ATI adapter plate sandwiches between the 2JZ and the Glide it makes the conventional starter motor mounting impossible because the ATI adapter plate masks the Bolts. Also the powerglide is much bigger on the bell housing hence the Major tranny tunnel mods the Supra previously underwent.

 

To overcome this ATI cunningly tap the Adapter plate to allow the 2JZ original starter to have its bolts reversed also making the starter much easier to remove/replace :D

 

All i had to do was clearance drill the threads on the starter itself. Upon my first test cranking everything engaged and worked smoothly :)

 

The Adapter plate stops you being able to use the stock rear oil cooler cooling pipe that runs behind the engine but seeing as i will be using a remote oil to air cooler it luckily doesn't matter.

 

p.s. the rusty spacer nuts for the flywheel are only for mock up whilst the new ones arrive!

 

Roll on more parts!

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Nice work Stuart, although must admit I don't understand half of the components you're talking about :D

 

If you want to make pics large, you can use photobucket, imageshack, etc, but as part of the rules of the project forum we prefer all images to be hosted here (the image sites delete them regularly, I've already lost half of the images from my single build :( )

 

To make a forum hosted image big, go to the URL of the image and copy/paste it to where you want it to appear in the thread. Then add at the start of the URL and then at the end of the URL.

 

e.g:

 

[noparse] attachment.php?attachmentid=86496&d=1232210470 [/noparse]

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  • 2 months later...

Well its been a while since i updated but i have been Busy chipping away at it!

 

The 2 speed powerglide Drag Autobox went off to Andy Frost ( http://www.redvictor1racing.co.uk) Fastest road legal car in the world, To be fully rebuilt..Again..Before i have even used it:rolleyes:

 

The Box was supposed to be 1500hp proof but it seemed it was more like 400hp not proof!. Andy is a GOD when it comes to drag racing and the Information he is passing onto me is priceless :innocent:

 

However i have now spent a further £2300 on the box with new Straight cut gears set,New Friction band and a few other secret mods:cool:

 

SO The sump is now winged and lengthened by 1.5" and fully baffled to reduce the chance of oil pickup loss.

 

The engine Block is all re-bored to take the Wiseco 86.5mm pistons. I am building up the short block tonight.

attachment.php?attachmentid=90088&d=1232210470

 

 

I have 2 10x10" Pro Cool Tranny coolers with fans.

 

The Dash2 display has arrived inc oil temp, pressure for both engine and gearbox.

 

I now have a Special paper engine oil filter system so after every run i can check for any unwanted particles in the oil.

 

I decided to go for a SFI Spec Fluidamper Crank damper

attachment.php?attachmentid=90090&d=1232210470

 

 

The crankshaft has been polished and all new OEM bearings

 

Also some PHR solid engine mounts

 

a 5" exhaust system for drag and a bespoke twin 3" system that will have better ground clearance for the roads.

attachment.php?attachmentid=90091&d=1232210470

 

A Matching set of Sparco Pro 2000 seats (to comply with pro street drag rules)

 

a BL Turbo oil feed and return line Kit

 

Set of mandrel bent 100mm Intercooler tubing

 

Set of Goodridge Braided Brake lines for the fronts

 

Aero bonnet catches

attachment.php?attachmentid=90100&d=1232210470

 

 

And Lots lots more..I will update with more details later.

 

A varley red top 25 racing battery and Aluminum Holder.

 

I have finally completed all the paint work (In my garden shed) and everything looks as good as the house of color paint!

 

I decided to go for an exposed dash so fully stripped and painted the entire inside of the car, along with 6 coats of lacquer :blink:

 

The rear braking system is complete and next week i am back off to Andy's to collect the gearbox and complete my 1200cc fuel system.

 

Also the Fully built cylinder head with full Ferreira valve train and double springs should be turning up any day....

 

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Edited by StuartW (see edit history)
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For a 1000bhp all out drag car id go bigger turbo than a 74 and you want to be running bigger injectors if you want a 1000bhp:)

 

Possible interested in the 264 cams.

 

The 74 should support over 1000hp but you are a bit small on the injectors dude. I will prob have to fit the 1200 cc ones same as my silver car:innocent:

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Can someone tell me how to make these pictures full page?

Right click the 1st image attachment (small pic) & select "copy shortcut" from the menu.

 

Paste this inbetween some normal image tags:

 

[noparse]attachment.php?attachmentid=86440&d=1232107869[/noparse]

 

To show the next image just increment the attachmentid, which would go to 86440 in this case:

 

[noparse]attachment.php?attachmentid=86441&d=1232107869[/noparse]

 

:)

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The 74 should support over 1000hp but you are a bit small on the injectors dude. I will prob have to fit the 1200 cc ones same as my silver car:innocent:

 

I plan to run the 74 purely for this season as a shakedown thing.

 

So much stuff is new to me on this set up i want to have some restrictions and want to build up slowly to my sub 8 sec target over the next 5 years or so.

 

I was going to run the 1600cc,s but had been told by Many that they could not be controlled well enough to idle under 1500rpm for street use.

 

At that time i was going to run AEM but now i am going the Solaris route and i am going to fully utilize the Traction control system too, Maybe the Solaris will cope better with the idle and 1600's?

 

I already have set up 2 IAC's to cope with the lack of induction on the GSC's being 274 10.8mm lift.

 

I had heard of people running another set of smaller injectors alongside to cope with idle.

 

basically i am gonna find out for myself and i do realize i will be compromising all the time and will probably eventually go all out Pro non road legal.

 

For NOS i have a wizards of Nos Wet system with progressive controller and a 6 port direct system to be integrated as time goes on.

I have a fully set up system on my White Supra that saw gains of 65hp @ 573hp on a single fogger so i am hoping for around 120hp safely from the direct port system.

 

Also i am currently doing lots of R&D on the AEM Meth injection system i have to apply the benefits to the Drag car.

 

This will also be controlled and triggered through the Solaris depending on loadings,speed,boost etc.

 

But for now my plans are fully road legal just for the Fun factor!

 

Also all being well it will be SVA'd and become the first 09 plate supra:D

 

Any pics/Specs on your silver car dude? I remember now it was the one Homer now has but any specs on when it was alive? Also why did you strip it?

 

Cheers

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Today i received the Built cylinder head.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=90232&d=010420092028

 

It has been skimmed,Fully ported and the inlets have been knife edged and polished, Not to mention a bit of flowing from the Guys who build 250+hp 1.6 Ford rally engines.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=90234&d=1232210470

 

Then the CNC machining was done to accommodate the Ferreira Dual Valve springs, They had to machine another seat 24 times to allow the smaller inner spring to seat 3mm above the outer spring, this then levels the tops of both springs (They will be cleaned properly before i re-install them!)

 

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The valves are one piece Stainless steel

 

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3 Angle seat job on all

 

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The pictures are probably a bit too good quality as the real items actually look much better..I am very pleased :D

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well components are about £600 imported and labour should have been around £900 plus a donor head import taxes and carriages:innocent:

 

I did see a built head with a simirlar spec for sale on here a while back for £1400 ish.

 

Cool, not bad considering! I cant wait to see this car in action.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Race me

wont be ready for a while as have so much work to do so wont be racing you for a while yet as i have a bucket for an engine i went to look at your car before you brought it and it was really the inspiration for mine yours is coming on great glad there will be some to beat me off light outside asda

 

 

image

 

image

Edited by Race me (see edit history)
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