Pete Posted April 20, 2005 Share Posted April 20, 2005 Some nice welding there Chris.. What are you planning to do with this Skyline when it's complete? (not that these kind of projects are ever truly complete) Beat the pants of everything in the 2006 season? You must have a target in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 20, 2005 Author Share Posted April 20, 2005 It will be used as a track day fun car. I'll keep it road legal, I want to be able to drive it up the road to Oulton Park, and to Donington and Pembrey, I am getting sick of trailering and mauling the racecar about on track days, getting too old for that! Had noise issues with the Zeus, too That reminds me, need to make a new (baffled..) silencer for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 On the pistons, what's this extrusion that goes through half the skirt for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 21, 2005 Author Share Posted April 21, 2005 You mean the cut out? It's to clear the oil squirter jets. they squirt cooling oil up under the pistons, into a hole, and into and through a hollow chamber under the crwn. The oil then comes out of another hole. That's why the pistons are so damned expensive, the forging is trick to get the hollow chamber. Easy with cast ones though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 The cutouts at the bottom of the 3rd ring groove, are they to feed this squirted oil onto the oil scraper ring to cool it or are they to channel scraped oil into the piston? -Ian PS I hate you for building such a monster for a track day fun car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 21, 2005 Author Share Posted April 21, 2005 No, most / all pistons have holes or slots here, it's to allow the dual rail 3rd ring to deposit scraped off bore oil back inside the piston and into the sump. That's why nearly all oil rings have in effect 2 rails, either totally seperate with a wavy spacer rail, or cast, but with a relieved cut back section between the parts that conatct the bore, to mimic 2 rings. Some ultra trick full race 4 stroke pistons have only 2 rings, lots of 2 strokes only 1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 You mean the cut out? It's to clear the oil squirter jets. they squirt cooling oil up under the pistons, into a hole, and into and through a hollow chamber under the crwn. The oil then comes out of another hole. That's why the pistons are so damned expensive, the forging is trick to get the hollow chamber. Easy with cast ones though. Very trick. Have you got any shots of the squiters? (Potentially opening this thread up to a torrent of filth!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 22, 2005 Author Share Posted April 22, 2005 I am building 3 other Skyline engines at the moment, I'll get a photo of a stock bottom end that should show the squirters later. Going to pick up the block now, and take the rotating bits for balancing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 15, 2005 Author Share Posted June 15, 2005 Been really busy with race cars and Supras, but finally my new block is on the engine stand and I am about to commence building the thing The block is bored and honed to each individual piston, first job is de burr it and modify the oilways which could stand improvement from some careful rotary filing. I am thinking of re enginering the huge and bulky Nissan oil filter and oil cooler (oil to water heat exchanger under the inlet manifold) to something a lot lighter, simpler and neater. I am going to be using either a simple oil to air cooler or maybe a Scandinavian oil to water heat exchanger I have, depends on the logistics of where i can mount a 40 plus row oil cooler. Then it's a dry build of crank, pistons and rods to measure bearing clearnaces and piston deck heights. The pistons may well need machining to drop the compression a bit. The bearings are all avaialble in selective sizes for the Skyline, so it's out with the Plastigauge to check the actual dry build running clearances of mains and big ends. All rotating parts are dynamically balanced, so then the short motor can be built up and I'll start on porting the head. I'll take pics and put them on my site. Whats's the simplest app to use to put text on digiatl photos, with arrows, maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 The block is bored That's because it's been sat around for so long ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 15, 2005 Author Share Posted June 15, 2005 Wise guy! You just bolt your alternator on properly, or get on with some work! Will speak to you re cameras when I get a minute, seems no 3G is available around these rustic parts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supraman Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 I'll take pics and put them on my site. Whats's the simplest app to use to put text on digiatl photos, with arrows, maybe? Chris, Ms Paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 21, 2005 Author Share Posted June 21, 2005 Short of a bit of fettling, a quick bead blasting and a thorough cleaning I have finished hacking off the front diff from an RB26 cast alloy sump with a Trust sump extension to go on my RB26 engined R33 GTS-t. I wanted a cast sump as it ties in the block and gearbox more rigidly, adds rigidity to the bottom of the block, aids oil cooling and allows known and tested commercial bafling to be used. All preferable to the admittedly lighter pressed tin RB25DET sump pan normally found in an R33 GTS-t. I also removed the front driveshaft tube and bearing housings, welding up the resultant holes with alloy plugs. An original sump with the diff still attached is in the original_sump file, on a customer engine i rebuilt a bit ago, as a comparison. (poor picture, I should have photo'd the sump before attacking it...) It was quite a time consuming and `orrible job actually! Pics Here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 23, 2005 Author Share Posted June 23, 2005 Crank bearings now selected, I fitted small size one (GTR crank main and rod bearings are available in 6 tolerance sizes so one can get clearances absolutely spot on). I use Plastiguage to check small clearances, it's a thread of plastic about 3 thou inch thick, that you put on the journal you wish to ceck the clearance of. Then you torque up all the caps, or the girdle in this case, strip again, and the width that the bearings have sqashed the threads too can be measured. This width is the bearing clearance, measured against a scale. i aimed for 0.0015 to 0.0018 thousandths of inch, and managed to get them all spot on with some fiddling. Need to check the rod bearings next, but work is interfering again! PICS HERE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 24, 2005 Author Share Posted June 24, 2005 Crank girdle studs (£350 for 14 studs and nuts, Jeez...) are in, crank bearings are now clearanced and finally assembled, crank is in and torqued, water and oil pumps (N1 race water pump, Tomei (high capacity, adjustable pressure) oil pump is on. Next job is piston deck heights an machining the pistons to get my desired compression ratio. Note the oil squirters to cool the hollow piston crowns in one or two of the photos. These make a big difference to piston cooling, the Supra has these too, although not thehollow piston crowns. [/url]PICS HERE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ewizzy Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 Chris, this is going to be an absolute TOOL!!!! I hope if I ever manage to get down to you to get some work done, I can get a passenger ride Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted June 29, 2005 Share Posted June 29, 2005 Ahh, this takes me back to rebuilding my engine for the kit. Wish I'd taken more pics. Sadly only have the assembled block and head... oh well.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest polus Posted June 29, 2005 Share Posted June 29, 2005 I would buy a DVD with such a project on it Like a DIY guide to engine building... Same here, infact Id be your happy little helper if I lived nearby... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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