marc_p Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 Ok, This has spawned from when the Crank Pulley split in two. I will start from the beginning. I finally fitted the new crank pulley on saturday, along with a new belt, so I decided to take a trip to a mates house to give it a run out (about 15 miles) When I got there the radiator was boiling over and there was a hell of a lot of steam coming from the expansion tank(it had blown the lid of it) and I switched the engine off and the steam kept coming from the end of the expansion tank tube for about 15 minutes, luckily the mate, who's house I was visiting, was a mechanic so he had a look around and he reckoned it would be an air block in the radiator and suggested I bleed it when I got home, so we let the car cool for a couple of hours and filled the radiator up (as most of the water had left as steam). So I set off home with the heaters on full and got there fine, when I got home I bled the radiator, anyway, the next day I went about 150 miles -200 miles in the car perfectly fine with no problems, I had a few stops and no signs of bubbling or steam. Anyway just as I got home I got out the car and there was the bubbling again, so I bled the radiator again and then on the way to work this morning I got about 5 miles the heat rised and I saw the steam coming from the bonnet, so I pulled over and put some water in the radiator (as it had gone in steam again) and limped it home with heaters on full. So thats the story so far, also a few other things to mention: -There was no oil in the radiator -No water from exhaust, apart from usual startup residue. -The heaters weren't really blowing hot this morning, but were fine last night when it boiled. So has anyone got any Ideas? Cheers Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShamelessTT Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 Rad cap? i know someone will say it lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_p Posted August 5, 2008 Author Share Posted August 5, 2008 Yeah I did a search and rad cap came up (alot) but can't see how it could be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 Yeah I did a search and rad cap came up (alot) but can't see how it could be. Do you mean you recently fitted a new one or you don't understand how a dodgy rad cap can cause overheating? -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_p Posted August 5, 2008 Author Share Posted August 5, 2008 Do you mean you recently fitted a new one or you don't understand how a dodgy rad cap can cause overheating? -Ian I don't understand how a dodgy rad cap could cause it, also, would it be a bit too much of a coincidence for the rad cap to go 'dodgy' at the same time the crank pulley wheel broke. Oh and the top hose get's red hot while the bottom hose stay's cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShamelessTT Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 Id just replace it if u havent already, there like a tenner or something. It controls the pressure in the system (under pressure waters boiling point is > 100c). If ur rad cap is knackered it could release pressure too early or not hold it at all, thus allowing the boiling water / steam into the expansion tank. At least thats my take on it......someone will soon smack me down if im wrong tho. How about water pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibbleyuk Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 Rad cap done mine last week problem solved! The top rad pipe should go hard when running if it is then the rad cap is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_p Posted August 5, 2008 Author Share Posted August 5, 2008 Id just replace it if u havent already, there like a tenner or something. It controls the pressure in the system (under pressure waters boiling point is > 100c). If ur rad cap is knackered it could release pressure too early or not hold it at all, thus allowing the boiling water / steam into the expansion tank. At least thats my take on it......someone will soon smack me down if im wrong tho. How about water pump? Ah right, will get a new rad cap pronto, stock is best i'm guessing. I think the water pump is fine but might replace that aswell just to be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 I don't understand how a dodgy rad cap could cause it. A leaking rad cap is one of the most common causes of overheating. The cooling system is kept under pressure, under pressure the coolant boils at a high temperature, if the pressure drops ie. if the seal on the rad can is leaking, the coolant will boil over at a much lower temperature. Once the coolant starts to boil over it will overflow out of the expansion bottle, you will then lose fluid and the temp will increase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creative Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 welcome to my world! start with the rad cap as mentioned. make sure you have fluid in the expansion bottle as well. Next check the waterpump is flowing by having a look down the rad top to see if water is moving across it.. (its a cambelt off job to replace the pump if its gone) Check your rad itself isnt blocked. It should be evenly hot all over. if its cool to touch at any point it means the rad is blocked. Last and not least is the stat. If its a sticking stat, this could cause the problems you are suggesting as sometimes it will work and other times it will stick closed and overheat. also worth giving the hoses a check over for any splits or leaks.... hope that helps fella! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazzi Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Had the same symptoms Marc, took the whole rad out and replaced it with an ASI one (had a new rad cap on btw) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d_d Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 If you took the rad out when taking the crank pulley off you probally still got a air lock but as above change your rad cap for starters, make sure its fully bled. Check all your hoses for leaks etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_p Posted August 11, 2008 Author Share Posted August 11, 2008 Just for any future searches on this, it was the radcap, put a new one on the car on saturday and sorted the problem. Also there was a tiny airblock in it still, I found the best way to resolve this was to take the rad cap off, put the heaters on full and leave it running for a couple of minutes. Cheers for the help guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz6002 Posted August 11, 2008 Share Posted August 11, 2008 ignore me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted August 11, 2008 Share Posted August 11, 2008 If the thermostat has been buggered by the previous overheating, it will cause problems,ie not opening there is also the possibility that the head gasket/head warped due to the serious overheat, i take it you did check the coolant after the pulley failure? how long did it run with no water pump working? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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