spiderpigcity Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 as usual i started with a small turbo conversion, now i must have shares in boostlogic in texas. i have ordered just about everything you can get that is worth it for a single conversion. zohair at boostlogic is the man and he knows everything about supras. he is also i nice helpfull guy and their customer services are great as you would expect for usa. anyway i wanted to removed the charcoal canister because its p** and it takes up the space i need for my new header tank. i am writing this article because there isnt really anything i could find that was usefull. start by removing all the 3 pipes that fit to the top of the canister (under bonnet on passenger side next to the firewall). throw the pipes away. undo the 10mm bolts that hold it to the braket. then give it a tugg and remove it. then remove the 2 10mm bolts that hold the bracket to the inner wing. they seem impossible to get at so you need a long extension with a 10mm socket on and then you can fit the bar through the brake lines and undo them. i had my car on ramps at the garage but you have will have to use axle stand i suppose. jack the car up and remove the wheel arch liner on the passenger side. there are loads of 10mm bolts and screws to undo. then at the firewall end of the wheel arch you will see the drain (vapour pipe) that runs from the inner wing and down through the inside wing and under the steering rack. undo the 3 10mm bolts on clips that hold the pipe and bend it to remove it and chuck it in the bin. pull the rubber bung out of the hole in the inner wing and throw it away. block the hole with a new rubber grommet to seal it off. now for the pipes that lead to the tank. block the 2 that come from the engine bay off. the one that comes up the firewall from under the floor is the petrol tank vapour release pipe. leave it open. on the bottom of the pressure tank was a 1 way valve mounted to the supporting bracket take it off and make sure you keep it for a moment. refit the inner arch liner and jack the back of the car up. undo boltsthe 2 bolts that hold the petrol tank up to the rear boot. 14mm, one is a bit of a bugger you will need a long extension for this. drop the tank down 2 inches, it will not fall off dont worry. open the boot and remove the lower boot cover. undo the 10mm nuts that hold the cover on over the fuel tank inside the boot, undo the rubber pipe that is at the 3 oclock position on the fuel tank head plate. it is only about 6 inches long and joins the top pipe that is bolted to the tank at about 11 olclock position, disconnect this end as well. throw the hose away. this is where the vapour line starts. get some rubber hose and cut it to 3 inches long. place the rubber hose on the the first pipe at 3 oclock. jubilee clip it. on the other end of the 3 inch pipe fit the 1 way valve that you took from the charcoal canister. jubilee clip it. then get a 2ft length of rubber hose and slide it down where the fuel lines come up between the tank and the boot 11 oclock. this is why you dropped the tank 2 inches so that you can get the hose through the gap. push one end of the hos onto the 1 way valve and jubilee clip it. replace the tank cover and fit all the 10mm nuts. make sure that the 1 way valve allows air into the tank but not out. just test it by blowing through it before you fit it to see which way iot works. now go back under the car and tighten the 14mm bolts up that hold the tank up to the floor. get the rubber hose and tie wrap it to the rear chassis member near the diff. make sure its pointing towards the ground so that no cr*p gets in it. job done. you have allowed the tank to breath and the fumes will not get past the valve, if the do then they will be long gone in the same place as your exhaust and wont come into the car. hope this helps. i will post some pics when i get chance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uk-rich Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 hmm, seems you took the long way round the vent, i just joined the vent from the tank (carbon cannister end), to the pipe that runs under the steering rack, no fume for me, and it vent where toyota intended it to i wouldn't want it near the rear of the car (mine spits flames) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 hmm, seems you took the long way round the vent, i just joined the vent from the tank (carbon cannister end), to the pipe that runs under the steering rack, no fume for me, and it vent where toyota intended it to i wouldn't want it near the rear of the car (mine spits flames) mine vents into the front wheelarch. Then just remove the line going over the diagnostic port and block the ends off. Bob = Mothers sibling There were threads on Mkiv.com giving a how-to but i gave up searching.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderpigcity Posted July 11, 2008 Author Share Posted July 11, 2008 ok ill vent it to the inner wing then, just heard some people had problems with vapour getting into cabin, some people dont. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderpigcity Posted July 11, 2008 Author Share Posted July 11, 2008 hmm, seems you took the long way round the vent, i just joined the vent from the tank (carbon cannister end), to the pipe that runs under the steering rack, no fume for me, and it vent where toyota intended it to i wouldn't want it near the rear of the car (mine spits flames) cant be any different to having unburnt petrol going down your exhaust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 ok ill vent it to the inner wing then, just heard some people had problems with vapour getting into cabin, some people dont. IIRC thats when they remove and leave the vent pipe loose in the bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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