b16gtf Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 i have bought a chrome top rad hose, when i fit this will i need to bleed the car or anything?? dont want air getting in and overheating. also if i do how do you bleed these, only just got it. Many Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miko_supra Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 Never changed one myself, but i would think that you would need to empty the system slightly as the pipe will be full of coolant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b16gtf Posted July 9, 2008 Author Share Posted July 9, 2008 bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabs Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 as per previous answer. Either try to catch the coolant that you lose, or replace with new. The top of the rad will empty out until the level is below the hose. Not sure how much you'll need though. Do a search on here - I'm sure there is a thread by "Sharpie" that asks similar questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabs Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 Here ya go: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=151062 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 I jacked mine up at the front and just swapped it over, then topped up with water as only a tiny amount was lost. On a side note I got rid of my metal top pipe, they get hot and stay hot not like silicon plus it turned the water a rusty colour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolarbag Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 On a side note I got rid of my metal top pipe, they get hot and stay hot not like silicon plus it turned the water a rusty colour Really? Wouldnt that become like a heat transfer then? If I can find a competant welder I'd like to fit AN type braided lines for my coolant routes - mainly to become guaranteed leak free and the bling factor:innocent: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 Wouldnt that become like a heat transfer then? My metal pipe got too hot to touch and once hot stayed hot, my theory is some of that heat must go back into the water system. The silicon pipe never gets that hot, even after a session on track you can hold it All IMO as my car never over heated with either setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolarbag Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 I see what you mean, but I'd just like to find out whats better for the coolant, I've seen fin type cooling pipes I once thought would aid cooling if someone was to fab it into something like our metal top rad hose, it may look a little fugly but functional, They were metal, but I wonder does the fact silicone isnt a good conductor of heat aid in cooling or as the metal conducts heat is it transfering some of it away from the coolant? I guess it may be the latter, but with the benefit of a small amount of heat transfer comes the disadvantage of the transferred heat warming up any cooler coolant, cancelling the initial benefit that it could have brung Silicone may be better for daily driving then and overall, but on track it would only make a difference on your cool down period? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 I dunno mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabs Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 All I know is, CW is NOT a fan of these hardpipes because when the engine moves it puts stress on the silicon connectors, which eventually tear/rip and cause leaks. A full silicon hose is his preferred option. I hear that the OEM hoses eventually sag and get in the way of the fan, so I'm not liking that idea either. Ideally, I'm trying to source a black samco/sfs hose to replace my hardpipe, but everywhere I look want £50+ ish for the one hose. All that said, Like Wez, my chome hardpipe is functioning fine and not causing any (known) issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colsoop Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 I hear that the OEM hoses eventually sag and get in the way of the fan, so I'm not liking that idea either. Ideally, I'm trying to source a black samco/sfs hose to replace my hardpipe, but everywhere I look want £50+ ish for the one hose. All that said, Like Wez, my chome hardpipe is functioning fine and not causing any (known) issues. You would have to put a fair few miles on your Supra before a new toyota hose started to sag ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabs Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 You would have to put a fair few miles on your Supra before a new toyota hose started to sag ! well only going by what has been said to me in the past. Also bearing in mind that brand new toyota rad caps have failed within a few hundred miles of purchase as well..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colsoop Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 well only going by what has been said to me in the past. Also bearing in mind that brand new toyota rad caps have failed within a few hundred miles of purchase as well..... It does sag but what im saying is it isn't a quick thing - it is age related. I don't know how much a new top rad hose from Toyota is probably around £20 ish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTRickeh Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 'Rad Hose T16571-46150 Mr T's price is £11.15 + Vat Rad Clips x 2 T90467-37005 Mr T's price is £4.55 + Vat each. £23.79 all in.' - Sharpie That's from the thread Pabs posted above, so yeah fairly cheap to replace if you want a stock one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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