Axle Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 With so many of us atleast going the BPU route, where is the best place to start to ensure our cars are recieving optimum cooling? New 'upgraded' rad/fans etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Konrad Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 FMIC for a start I would say, after that aftermarket radiator and maybe electric fans on top. I've seen some Supra in US running "ice water" instalation, but you would have to google what was it on about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 A good SMIC or FMIC, decent spal fans on the rad might do some good but i've read they aren't much better than stock. I've read that hardpipes (intercooler) are meant to help with efficiency which can only help. A nice shiney rad might if you wanted to spend some dosh though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 Put some decent gauges on it before you go changing the cooling system unnecessarily, even with hybrids i had perfectly adequate water and oil temps, i am only now adding an oil cooler because i have fitted an oil cooled single. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 Do you mean cooling in terms of the water temps? If so, provided you don't have a huge FMIC in front of the rad, the stock rad is absolutely fine provided the rest of the engine is in good condition. Even with mine with a 3 row Greddy it was still fine, even on track. In fact, it was still fine with a T67dbb single, even in the heat of summer an heavy traffic. It's not been on the track yet though That was with a Do Luck front with ducting, it *might* not be so good with an FMIC and the stock front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axle Posted July 2, 2008 Author Share Posted July 2, 2008 Yes Homer i was thinking water temps really. I was browsing this site which made me pose the question. One of their adverts stated that improved cooling from a more efficient Fluidyne rad generated around 5-10bhp more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 Yes Homer i was thinking water temps really. I was browsing this site which made me pose the question. One of their adverts stated that improved cooling from a more efficient Fluidyne rad generated around 5-10bhp more. I would be surprised at that but if you can get the charge temps down then you can definitely get more power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 One of their adverts stated that improved cooling from a more efficient Fluidyne rad generated around 5-10bhp more. It's sales garbage for the US market. Best ignored unless you have a huge FMIC, your old rad is tired or you're running silly boost in hot weather/track conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 I would be surprised at that but if you can get the charge temps down then you can definitely get more power. Water temps have virtually no bearing on charge temps if the system is working. An FMIC is mounted before the rad anyway... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 Yes Homer i was thinking water temps really. I was browsing this site which made me pose the question. One of their adverts stated that improved cooling from a more efficient Fluidyne rad generated around 5-10bhp more.Pfft. Ridiculous claim. Do you have 5-10 more horsepower before your engine has warmed up then? I notice the page also says the stock radiator is plastic, which it isn't. If your coolant isn't chronically overheating you won't gain anything from fitting a different Rad. Also, a FMIC is more likely to cause overheating than the stock SMIC because it blocks air flow to the rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axle Posted July 2, 2008 Author Share Posted July 2, 2008 Yeh i figured it was marketing BS, but still made me question the Supes standard cooling efficiency and weather there were relative simple ways of improving it. IE Bigger fans etc. I guess we have not much to worry about. Other then some guy wanting to stick lambo doors on his supe on another thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 Water temps have virtually no bearing on charge temps if the system is working. An FMIC is mounted before the rad anyway... Yeah, i was just lazy and didn't type everything i was thinking. I was basically meaning forget the water for more power, concentrate on cooling the charge temps lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axle Posted July 2, 2008 Author Share Posted July 2, 2008 Actually while on the subject, can someone direct me to the best transmission cooler for the supe? As im going to be looking into upgrading the Torque converter, which i may be purchasing from those guys (on Trd's recommendation). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GazB Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 You will gain some lost bhp by removing the viscose fan. Not sure how much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 You will gain some lost bhp by removing the viscose fan. Not sure how much The load you will lose on the engine removing the viscous fan, will just be transferred to the alternator to run the electric fans, you don't get something for nothing. The viscous fan is much more reliable and able to flow ample quantities of air to cool the radiator. I would hazard a guess the stock viscous fan will flow more than a pair of electric fans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorin Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 Sticking an FMIC in front of the rad will make cooling worse. Much worse if it's not properly ducted. Twin electric fans will never push as much air as the driven viscous fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 Al you will be fine with the ducted GReddy SMIC you have just bought and the stock radiator, provided it is in good condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GazB Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 CFM for a standard viscose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 CFM for a standard viscose? You'd probably have to ask Toyota for that From the cars I've seen, the stock viscous fan shifts at least as more air as twin electric ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 The viscous fan is far more capable than electric ones assuming you still have the shroud, if you don't it'll be fairly useless. The key to cooling is forcing the air through the rad. Air will go for the exit with least resistance....make that the core of the rad and you're onto a winner. You need to seal the area infront of the rad so that the air entering the nose has to go through the rad and into the engine bay. The stock radiator has a vast surface area, a properly working stock rad will be enough for the needs of anyone on this site. In short, stock fan, stock shroud and a new rad will be spot on....it will have kept the car cool in Death Valley(et al) testing...so England is going to be a piece of cake. Blocking the rad with an FMIC changes things but if you make sure it's all still a sealed area then it shouldn't be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GazB Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 I've just fitted a twin fan set, one pulls 2500 cfm and the other 1500 cfm (smaller as it sits between rad and IC down pipe). I've fitted them because after market rad cap split top of rad should have read up first about TRD rad caps or sellers information should be more clear that these will result in rad pressure increasing But then less new rad would be sold So i've had a nice new shiny PWR, very big, hold 10 ltr's but EGT's still running into 100's during heavy use of right foot on hot days. AC rad and FMIC both block air flow through to rad I could have modified fan shroud and kept viscous fan but 2 new electric fans controlled by ECU do a very nice job Only down side is the running noise of these fans, they sound like i'm getting ready for take off Next job is to remove AC rad as i don't use it and it's blocking air flow to rad. I need also to manage the warm air that is being created within endgine bay due to new fans. I'm looking at a home made wind tunnel with fans and a smoke machine to see where it's a going and if i can direct it to different places. I'm well aware that i need a much cold air to the right places as well, so this is being address as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colsoop Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 If you go the FMIC route make some proper ducting for it, sides and top and bottom making sure the air can only go one way. At BPU i would just go with a new stock rad ducted fully along with a coolant change and a new SMIC. You will not overheat it ! (Assuming you have a stock front bumper) If track days float your boat perhaps an oil cooler and a ps cooler in the left hand duct. if you wanted to reduce heat you could have all your pipework heat coated to reduce temps slightly although cost versus temp drop would have to be weighed up. If soing lots of high speed runs maybe fit the oem scoop + fitting kit and make it fully functional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 I was never that impressed with my old Fluidyne rad, the fit wasn't good and it did not perform any better than the stock rad. The Power Enterprise double row rad I have on now is a lot better at keeping the temps down. It was 36+ degrees today here, I was having a bit of a play when the roads were clear and then later stuck in slow moving traffic and temps stayed stable all day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axle Posted July 2, 2008 Author Share Posted July 2, 2008 The Power Enterprise double row rad I have on now is a lot better at keeping the temps down Better then stock Rad Nic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 So i've had a nice new shiny PWR, very big, hold 10 ltr's but EGT's still running into 100's during heavy use of right foot on hot days. ?? Cooling system does not effect EGTs unless its not working or head gasket is gone, and EGTs should be in the 100s?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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