Chris Wilson Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Very good = Snap On, Stahlwille, Facom. Good = Britool, Clarke Professional (Machine Mart), Gedore, Teng professional. Rubbish = Most new ones from Ebay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Am I best off going for the 6 sided version or will it be ok with the 12 sided one? Thanks for your help Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Single hex will always grip better, hence why impact sockets are single hex. Bi hex allow you to reposition the spanner in tight confines to get another bit of a turn. Can you not get a 1/4 inch drive socket in there? Most 1/4 drive sockets in 10 mm sizes are single hex if you have a 1/4 drive socket set? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Single hex will always grip better, hence why impact sockets are single hex. Bi hex allow you to reposition the spanner in tight confines to get another bit of a turn. Can you not get a 1/4 inch drive socket in there? Most 1/4 drive sockets in 10 mm sizes are single hex if you have a 1/4 drive socket set? Unfortunately when I fit the driver to the socket, it no longer sits on the bolt properly and will simply slip off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merckx Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Can't you pull out the extension bar a little or use a deeper socket? If there's a chance of a hex socket slipping on a shallow bolt or nut I grind the face of the socket flat so you don't have the beveled inside part of the socket which doesn't help at all as you want as much contact area as possible with the bolt or nut. I'll be surprised if they're very tight though, mine came loose easily with a ring spanner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 It's not a case of a deeper socket, if anything I need a shallow one. I can take a picture if that helps I appreciate all the replies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uk-rich Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 when i removed mine to fit the brembos, all the bolts were snapping off, hammer and chisel dealt with them nicely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 when i removed mine to fit the brembos, all the bolts were snapping off, hammer and chisel dealt with them nicely You weren't refitting another set though were you Rich? I'm afraid mine might snap. Maybe it's a UK thing, more rust Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uk-rich Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 i would of really struggled to get mine off, even with heat and peno oil, really badly rusted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 i would of really struggled to get mine off, even with heat and peno oil, really badly rusted As I suspected I really don't want to remove my hubs because I've snapped them. I'll try CW's method though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Err, won't you have to remove the hub falnges to get the new ones on, anyway? I cut the old ones off, if the customer wants them gone entirely, and not just neatly trimmed back. They won't go over the hub flange... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 I was going to cut a groove out of the new ones and slide them back on like in the picture below: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharpie Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 (edited) Does anyone have the part numbers for the rear shields please? I don't see them listed on my EPC. Oh, hold on, they are part of the parking brake: RH 46503-14020 LH 46504-14020 Edited December 22, 2008 by Sharpie Found part numbers. (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Don't become a surgeon, please It'll work, I guess.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 I don't see them listed on my EPC. I have them now thanks Pete. Don't become a surgeon, please It'll work, I guess.... Are you suggesting I keep my rusty ones and try and make them look a little more presentable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 Just cut them off altogether and have none. Cheap, easy, and improves disc cooling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 Just cut them off altogether and have none. Cheap, easy, and improves disc cooling. That's interesting to know. What was the reason Toyota put them on in the first place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 To keep water off the discs as much as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 So removing them will have no adverse effect on anything. The extra water won't be a problem? Not that it goes out in the rain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 38super Posted December 25, 2008 Share Posted December 25, 2008 I've done 100,000km without the dust shields since the change to UK/US brakes, quite a lot of it on gravel roads, with no problems. YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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