Pabs Posted May 23, 2008 Author Share Posted May 23, 2008 No, no one has it yet. c'mon - it's killing me! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamanC Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 Not enough coolent in the expansion bottle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 (edited) The fan shroud is covering some of the rad ? Jubily clips on silicon hoses ? Edited May 23, 2008 by wile e coyote (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabs Posted May 23, 2008 Author Share Posted May 23, 2008 Well I need to order a new rad ASAP (just after bank hol I recon) so I'd like any other recommendations! Golpher rad is about £220 delivered, and CW rad about a tenner more. Nothing in it between the two, purely down to the shiny vs stock look! I think if I can get a polished rad cover then I'd go for the CW one, but struggling to find one at mo. Need to keep my shiny engine bay shiny! Sad I know, but it's true. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Blyth Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 Daman, your cooling system has a major flaw in it! Let's see who can spot it, and say why The expansion bottle is aimed to fill the battery tray when it overflows? The elbow pipe where the turbo coolant returns isn't "bling" enough for you? The cooling system won't be adequate enough to handle the inevitable battery fire that will occur when the battery cover frets through the positive wire resting on it? I give in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben-san Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 (edited) Edit> Talking jibberish. I'll try reading page 2 before answering a question on page 1. Edited May 23, 2008 by Ben-san (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabs Posted May 23, 2008 Author Share Posted May 23, 2008 come on Chris - you've had us in suspense long enough - spill the beans! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamanC Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 Chris? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabs Posted May 24, 2008 Author Share Posted May 24, 2008 hello???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colsoop Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamanC Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 http://www.great-lakes.org/graphics-2/TTI/713-733-BLOODRED-HOOK.jpg Probably! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabs Posted May 24, 2008 Author Share Posted May 24, 2008 why the hell is "nice warm feeling", and "dark suit" tags on this thread? I really need to order a rad next week, so I think I'm going to go for the Golpher unit as nobody has said anything bad about them?!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 (edited) Like 99% of road car engines the MKIV power unit is mounted on isolators that keep engine vibration out of the chassis. In the case of the MKIV these are silicone filled rubber mounts that allow the engine to rotate a limited about, clockwise and anti clockwise, under torque reaction about the car's centreline. The distance effectively moved increases the further from the engine mount points, radially speaking. The movement at the top of the engine can be 2 or more inches in extremis. Toyota know this and fit all pipes, cables and umbilicals to the engine is such a way, and of such a material that the only thing restraining the engine from moving rotationally are the engine mounts, which they are designed to do, with movement limiters and safety devices built in. See where this is going? The engine is heavy, very heavy, its inertia is huge, and the rotational forces very substantial. A top rad hose made almost entirely of polished metal with maybe only an inch of very stiff in compression and virtually totally rigid in extension silicone hose each end is not a good design for an auxiliary engine stabiliser. Something will eventually give. Fanciful? Ask Pete Sharp, been asking him to revert to a stock top hose for some time, then this happens: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=151062 People make this "bling" but often are clueless as to the implications of a seemingly trivial change. You do not try and restrain a rubber mounted engine by things like earth leads, exhaust systems, throttle cables, radiator hoses, heater hoses, et cetera. Next time you are under the bonnet of any car look at the coolant hoses, and the other cables and hoopla, and you'll see they are always designed to accommodate engine movement without they themselves being put under any significant load at all. Edited May 25, 2008 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabs Posted May 25, 2008 Author Share Posted May 25, 2008 Ahhhh so that's what it was. Makes perfect sense I suppose! I would assume then, a standard hose or Samco hose would do the job perfectly because it has the ability to flex as required. And damn, I sold all my Samco hoses recently LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 And today I find another car with that top hose set up, this time it's snapped the top stub pipe off the rad itself, again because of excess loads down the pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tango Posted May 28, 2008 Share Posted May 28, 2008 very good point Chris, I was going to get the metal pipe, change my mind now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nizam Posted May 28, 2008 Share Posted May 28, 2008 i need a new performance radiator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabs Posted May 29, 2008 Author Share Posted May 29, 2008 i need a new performance radiator thanks for letting us know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoboblio Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 Interesting.....learn something new every day, thanks Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firestorm Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 hhm yes i wanted a hard pipe.. now im not convinced.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UltraFlynn Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 My hard pipe was always getting pulled off and leaking. When I replaced the radiator last year I reverted to the stock hose to protect the new rad. (In fact my goal under the bonnet is to keep things very much as stock but as new as possible) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 Silicone rubber to chrome steel or polished alloy = leaks unless the clips are done up so tight as to damage the hose long term, too. Just put a rad and water pump in a MKIV and pressure tested it, now the hard pipe is weeping at the hose joint, unless the Mikalor clamps are done up insanely tight, and that tight equals potential hose damage. Fitting a stock top hose today, that'll be 3 water leaks fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabs Posted May 29, 2008 Author Share Posted May 29, 2008 all good information - thanks Chris! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx1lew Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 going back to the question about the rad cap, These golpha rads came with 1.1 caps, is that safe.. Id rather not blow the heater matrix, how do you tell if you have?.. no heating? Lew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Why T Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 Glad i got the samco hoses and nt a shiny hard pipe now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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