Jim_1979 Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 (edited) I went on a 400mile round trip today to get my chargespeed bonnet. However on the way there, the temp soared a few times. It only seemed to happen on up hill sections when giving it some go pedal action. If I eased off, the temp went back to normal within 30seconds or so. It went VERY close to the red section, but not into it. I just eased off and it went straight back to normal. It didn't happen often, maybe 3 times or so. I checked the level of coolant and it seemed fine. I was thinking of flushing and changing the coolant and see what happens. Any ideas? Needless to say, I can't see it getting that hot again not the chargespeed is fitted. Edited May 7, 2008 by Jim_1979 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted May 8, 2008 Share Posted May 8, 2008 The temperate needle shouldn't move higher than just below middle, ever. If it does, you have a cooling problem. Check your radiator cap isn't shafted, and check your radiator isn't gunked up with leaves and stuff. Have you still got the stock fan and shroud setup? Flushing the coolant won't help, it doesn't lose its ability to move heat around, it's the rad that loses its ability to shed it. Some aftermarket bonnet certainly isn't anything like a cure for it, and may even reduce cooling ability depending on its design. -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted May 8, 2008 Author Share Posted May 8, 2008 Cheers, How would I know if the rad cap was shafted or not? I still have the stock fan/shroud setup. Checking for leaves etc is easy enough to do. So what's the best next step, been out in the car today and all was fine. Should I possibly look at changing the rad if that's the problem? Would having a FMIC effect the rads ability to cool the car sufficiently? Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted May 8, 2008 Share Posted May 8, 2008 Could be your fan buggered, had quite a few of those lately causing similar symptons. When the engine is off, is it stiff to turn or does it spin quite freely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted May 8, 2008 Author Share Posted May 8, 2008 Could be your fan buggered, had quite a few of those lately causing similar symptons. When the engine is off, is it stiff to turn or does it spin quite freely? What fan mate?? I'm newish to supra land. The big yellow one on the engine? Or is there another somewhere? Whatever fan it is, is it supposed to spin freely when off or be stiff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted May 8, 2008 Author Share Posted May 8, 2008 Paul.. where'd you go? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vvteye Posted May 8, 2008 Share Posted May 8, 2008 I think he means the big yellow one and it should move freely. I have a big FMIC and my needle stays just above middle at all times. Perhaps it's time to get a dual fan if this would help bring it down as I could roast chestnuts in the engine bay once it's run a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted May 8, 2008 Author Share Posted May 8, 2008 Is there such a thing as a low temp thermostat available for the Supra? I used to have one for my Mr2 turbo and it worked a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted May 8, 2008 Share Posted May 8, 2008 What fan mate?? I'm newish to supra land. The big yellow one on the engine? Or is there another somewhere? Whatever fan it is, is it supposed to spin freely when off or be stiff? The big white fan, cant miss it! It should spin freely yes, check it out. If not could be blocked rad, leak, air lock in the system, water pump, etc. etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Denial Posted May 8, 2008 Share Posted May 8, 2008 A low temp thermostat will not solve your problem, as all it will do is allow your coolant to flow into the radiator at a lower temperature, and this will mean that your car will take longer to get upto operating temperature, and on cold days, it might not get upto a temp where the ecu stops adding extra fuel due to the engine being too cold. One way of lowering the temperatures straight away is use the heater matrix, and position a blower to blow out of an open window. This idea also works in traffic, if your car starts to overheat. A more practical solution would be to either replace your radiator, or get it recored. Is there such a thing as a low temp thermostat available for the Supra? I used to have one for my Mr2 turbo and it worked a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted May 8, 2008 Author Share Posted May 8, 2008 I'm gonna try a new rad cap first, then take it from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creative Posted May 9, 2008 Share Posted May 9, 2008 is the belt slipping? Unusual for it to increase when you open the throttle. Possibly the belt slipping which in turn isnt turning the water pump.... easy off the peddle, belt gains friction and starts turning the waterpump again. Is there a tensioner on these belts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted May 9, 2008 Share Posted May 9, 2008 If the rad and expansion tank arn't full then it would point to the rad cap letting water out...failed rad cap. If all is full then I would expect it's new rad time. Once the engine has been running for a bit, shut the engine off and put your hand on the back of the rad through the big fan blades check extremely carefully for cold spots on the rad...they would suggest poor internal circulation...ie a knackered rad. Rad's only last 10years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted May 9, 2008 Author Share Posted May 9, 2008 I'm gonna get a new cap and if it happens again, then a new rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaymdee Posted May 9, 2008 Share Posted May 9, 2008 Could it be the Water pump seal leaking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted May 9, 2008 Author Share Posted May 9, 2008 Ssssssh! lol. Rad cap, then radiator. Anything else, I'll come to later. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smellywelshman Posted May 9, 2008 Share Posted May 9, 2008 One way of lowering the temperatures straight away is use the heater matrix, and position a blower to blow out of an open window. This idea also works in traffic, if your car starts to overheat. Hahahahahahahaha! Bollo*ks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted July 31, 2008 Author Share Posted July 31, 2008 Replaced rad cap... all seems good so far. Greddy 1.3bar rad cap... I might have fun doing the heater matrix soon. YAY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShamelessTT Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 1.3 Bar one might create more problems mind u, have a quick search you'll see what im saying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaz1 Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 Hahahahahahahaha! Bollo*ks! that is actually true, turn heater on hot and fans on full and it will bring the car temps down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShamelessTT Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 that is actually true, turn heater on hot and fans on full and it will bring the car temps down Yup at the end of the day its air blowing through a smaller radiator, so it must effect the system temp if theres enough airflow.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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