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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

AFR of 10, bad i guess


Fargo

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Of course there is a balance, but i'd still want it higher than 10 yeah.

 

x

 

i think its best to leave that to the mapper, i run 10.7:1 at WOT and 14.7:1 at cruise on an

 

 

 

 

 

 

SAFC :hide::rlol:

and before anyone starts i have an e-manage ultimate to go on when my re-built engine goes in :D, seem to be a few of these HKS V-pro/F-con thingys not running very well at the moment, i saw one on e-bay last year and it sold for £50, guess the mapping costs put people off

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I just replied to your post, when installed I gathered you undid the main live terminal and grounded the negative side for a minimum of 10mins,

 

There is no problem running this on a stock j-spec car with stock fueling

 

I was using a aem afr, again although not exactly accurate I seen 10's at wot, it begins to go mid 11's around the 6k mark,

 

On initial throttle, I would think that would be acceleration enrichment

 

The new ecu uses the same harness as the sz, if he can gain access then your mapper should be able to lean it out more if you wish

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when installed I gathered you undid the main live terminal and grounded the negative side for a minimum of 10mins,

wish

 

yeh got the PM, will reply now..ta

 

are you talking about reseting the stock ecu, if so then yes i did although not for 10 mins, i'll go and do that now.

 

would it be fait to say that when running on stock ecu at 1.1b on a jspec that upon acceleration an afr of 11.5 is not as preferable as a 10.

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If you had a standalone, I'd say that would be a pretty bold, but good state of tune, but as its oem, there are many factors to take into consideration, one being your egt's will be pretty high and as alex has already said could easily melt something in the process, so you would prefer it to be rich rather than lean

 

As regards to pm do you run any higher octane fuel?:search:

 

If not then you really dont want to run in the lean side at all, you will more than likely suffer det, I'd advise running the premium unleaded in any turbo car

 

Maybe Ryan or the like can chime in on this but acceleration enrichment, whether proportional to load or tps[or both], will require that you do run on the rich side until your at wot then you lean it out at mbt, adding a little extra juice to keep things cool and prevent any possible det with dodgy fuel, 12.2[or 12.5in cooler climates] would be premium in a forced induction car, but best stick to mid 11's or high 10's for our road going cars

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Right, i have removed the fcon and gone back to stock ecu.

My WOT AFR has gone from 10 (poss less as tis the lower limit on the aem afr) on the fcon v to 10.5-7 on the stock ecu.

 

some debate as to which is better 10 or 11.4 at WOT, certainly i feel better actually having the afr on the scale rather that off the scale.

 

my idle seems to be erratic though, the day before i fitted the fcon i had fitted an envy 1.2 restrictor ring and had put this on the downpipe section, the one the car came with was some crappy 1.2mm steel thing that had gone oval and was fitted just before the back box.

 

since that day my idle has mostly been in the 17's and also off the scale of my gauge. was normal with the fcon fitted and now is back to 17's.

 

Would the position of the ring cause this (ie back pressure 'pressures' have changed)

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the one the car came with was some crappy 1.2mm steel thing that had gone oval and was fitted just before the back box.

 

mate what do you expect from this forum, no one has a magic wand that they can wave over your car from 200 miles away, if you carry on with WOT thashing of your car you WILL blow it up, you need to take it to a mapper before you do any perminant damage (if you haven't allready), FYI the restrictor ring you describe is either a Chris Wilson one or a copy of one, ie ~ they are oval and it doesn't matter where you fit it :(

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calm down mate, wasnt expecting any magic from anyone, just info for me to learn by, the fcon is already removed so i will do as many WOT as i please with as much risk as the next BPU.

Reason i fitted the fcon on before mapping is cause it effectively had a base map already, from a jspec bpu with 440's, same as mine.

Re the ring i removed, yes its oval shaped on the outside but i should have perhaps been clearer in that the hole in the middle had in fact been ovalised with the heat and in fact was enlarged due to the lip of the circle bending out in the same direction as the exhaust flow, certainly looked to be a poorly engineered piece, if the only comparison i have is the envy one which is more robust.

 

Regardless of the fcon issue, i noticed the afr's playing up (biased to the lean end) when i had fitted the new ring in a different position,, which is why i asked this forum of knowledgeable people.

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mate what do you expect from this forum, no one has a magic wand that they can wave over your car from 200 miles away, if you carry on with WOT thashing of your car you WILL blow it up, you need to take it to a mapper before you do any perminant damage (if you haven't allready), FYI the restrictor ring you describe is either a Chris Wilson one or a copy of one, ie ~ they are oval and it doesn't matter where you fit it

 

Have you read this thread?:search::blink:

 

Why does he need to go to a mapper with a stock ecu? He has just stated that he removed his fcon, and he still has idle issues, unless he's been in there with a soldering iron, theres nothing a mapper is going to do to fix that.

 

First Fargo, what issues did you have...if any...before you fitted the F Con?

2nd...unless the postie has been in the F Con with a soldering iron on route to delivery there is no chance it will blow up-assuming you have a stock j-spec!!

Do you have a boost controller?

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idle issue before fcon, coincidently with replacement and repositioning of 1.2b ring, i also adjusted the idol as since putting the polished TB on it has been idling at approx 1k rpm.

Re AFR's with stock ecu at idle 14.8-15, at WOT 11.4. then after fitting/fiddling witht he above my idle was running lean at 16.5-17-18.

 

With fcon, idle was same, WOT was then 10, and again the idle started to lean out..

 

My spec to clarify is jspec auto, walbro, fmic, aem tru boost running 1.1b, aem afr.

 

ta

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Have you read this thread?:search::blink:

 

Why does he need to go to a mapper with a stock ecu? He has just stated that he removed his fcon, and he still has idle issues, unless he's been in there with a soldering iron, theres nothing a mapper is going to do to fix that.

 

 

:rlol: sorry fella but have you read this thread the guys opening post states "i've just fitted an F-con and at WOT my afr's are all over the place" :wtfsign:, now as all of us know installing and tuning an f-con is a piece of p**s that anyone can do in a weekend :p, this car is very very lucky to be still in one piece and i would not be surprised to read in an month or two his engine has infact been damaged, he now still has afr issues with his stock ecu so he's either damaged it or induced a bad connection somewhere, despite all this he still continues to rag the car at WOT :blink:

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Right, i have removed the fcon and gone back to stock ecu.

 

my idle seems to be erratic though, the day before i fitted the fcon i had fitted an envy 1.2 restrictor ring and had put this on the downpipe section, the one the car came with was some crappy 1.2mm steel thing that had gone oval and was fitted just before the back box.

 

since that day my idle has mostly been in the 17's and also off the scale of my gauge. was normal with the fcon fitted and now is back to 17's.

 

Just to clarify, I never had any problems with the Fcon in my car in over 4years, I have not changed the map, so anyone shouldnt have any problems in a jspec tt,

 

The points above, if you would have read more closely, show the car having stock ecu and idle problems only arising after fitting a 1.2bar restrictor ring. Puts in a f-con, removes it and still the same problems.

 

So Fargo is now back to STOCK ecu and having idle afr problems...which would suggest a hardware problem rather than software - maybe you could explain how this car is at severe risk of blowing up and how a mapper would be a more suitable solution than a mechanic?

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right, have decided to get the manuals out and start diagnosing, obvious thing to start with would be the fueling, been meaning to get an aeromotive fpr for a while now so will get one and at least make sure the pressures are ok, will want to remote mount the pressure gauge in the cockpit to keep an eye on it under real world 'load'.

Also looking at getting the PHR Fuel Pressure Pulsation Dampener Bypass line, any thoughts..

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Mate before fitting anything, f-con, fpr fuel pulsation dampner e.t.c take your car to a suitable garage and get it running like it should (like stock) then begin modding it,

 

Your clutching at straws if you start modding it to make it better, you could change every part in the car before you get to the problem

 

Once fixed, you will need a fuel pressure gauge if you want it mounted in the cabin, i have a defi(nice) but you need the link controller too which puts costs up, there are a lot of copies out there which can be powered remotely that are just as good

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