Viper008 Posted March 21, 2002 Share Posted March 21, 2002 I have just got a J-Spec TT GZ 93 what is a good place to start with the mods to produce more power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 21, 2002 Share Posted March 21, 2002 We are going to have to put these sorts of answers in an FAQ section!!!! Stage1) Decat (Chris Wilson's) Boost Gauge (Any Apex'i and Blitz look nicest) Highflow filter or induction Kit (K&N, Blitz, HKS) Catback exhaust (HKS and Blitz are the most commonly available) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper008 Posted March 21, 2002 Author Share Posted March 21, 2002 Thanks the usual add on bits. Do they make a big difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 21, 2002 Share Posted March 21, 2002 More power, more noise and more longer lasting silly grins....can you really lose?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted March 21, 2002 Share Posted March 21, 2002 JB **Hint, Hint** FAQ **Hint, Hint** JB :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branners Posted March 21, 2002 Share Posted March 21, 2002 but Martin, thats just for the gearboxes....if you fancy knocking up a FAQ about the standard mods then please do... JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich J Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 Quote: from Viper008 on 7:13 pm on Mar. 21, 2002[br]Thanks the usual add on bits. Do they make a big difference? Thos mods will make a big difference on a Supra and should see you boosting to about 1.0-1.2kg/cm2 (close to bar in scale, standard is about 0.8kg/cm2). If your's doesn't (some cars seem to resist boosting more with even both cats removed, mine did), then add a boost controller or bleed tee and get it boosting to between 1.0-1.2kg/cm2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Hockley Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 You might want to check with your insurance company that they insure cars with modifications, should you intend to declare them. If they dont you are looking at an invalid policy. Best of luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Jackett Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 Wouldn't add a modified filter unless you can feed it direct with cold air from outside the car. Standard ones sit right next to the Turbo and suck in hot air. SO in the summer you could actually lose power. This is what I was advised when modifying mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 I mean't change the filter in the standard air box or fit an induction kit...can't see how using a different filter in the air box will hurt the cars performance...plus the UK is a cold place most of the time so we don't suffer as much as some..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Jackett Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 I thought the induction kit used its own filter which draws air from inside the engine bay. If it is not then you are right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam W Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 "Induction kit" describes 'pod filters' such as the HKS mushroom filter, the K&N red&silver thing and the Blitz SUS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren S Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 Quote: from Adam Wootten on 11:16 am on Mar. 22, 2002[br]"Induction kit" describes 'pod filters' such as the HKS mushroom filter, the K&N red&silver thing and the Blitz SUS. Do these up market air filters directly replace the original, do they make a difference on their own and do you need to adjust anything else at all? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 Yep that's what I meant direct replacement filter... The most basic benefit is that you only have to clean them not replace them. Other than that it will be negligable..some claim to reduce turbulance and allow more air through without reducing cleaning efficience....K&N are the brand I would most respect in this scenario adn their filter recharger (cleaning) kit is quite awsome! The Induction kits are the same unless you can ram outside air at them they do bugger all but they do sound nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mycroft Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 Brian is so right, although it is quite cold outside under that bonnet the air around the engine is 34/38C and even though a LITTLE bit of cold air enters the engine bay, you must remember that warm air is more 'fluid' and will always displace the heavier cold air, PODS suck, worse still the they SUCK hot air, they are rubbish pure and simple, spend £50 making a quality unit that really will add 15/20hp instead, also the results published by the POD people are for units in cold air, they are NOT on vehicle figures. The original Toyota filter is very very good, better at filtration than ANY HKS or Blitz or any other, the Supra/Soarer NEEDS good filtration. The PODS use a less good filter membrane, they take the majority of their air from under the bonnet, this area has airborne graphite substrates, these go straight thru the more open filters and attack your turbos, the acidic nature does them no good at all. A proper external air supply direct to a factory filter will give better response, it actually gets better the faster you go, the air is not contaminated with the bad sh1t from under the bonnet. Pay £150 for something that actually degrades the car? You must be joking! (Edited by Mycroft at 6:09 pm on Mar. 22, 2002) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ash Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 If you want more power then turn up the boost pressure to just below fuel-cut, and accept that that is the limit of the car. If you want more still then buy a more powerful vehicle. There are a number of people on this BBS that love people such as yourself. They look out for posts such as yours and will sell you any old shite. Yours, J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Davies Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 Yeah because there has never ever been any more powerful supras than that... Hmmmm Neither exactly especially well considered statements Ash... Above the fuel cut thresholds things generally begin to get much more expensive, and probably needs detailed attention to the fuelling. This was recently covered on another thread. Mycroft details a good point, the after market filters aren't good for performance at all, there are some sealed solutions about that are worth looking into. Again something we've gone over in detail in other threads (maybe a while back now though). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mycroft Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 I designed a simple pressure control loop for my soarer, it goes back on very soon, it can be set for just that task you mention Ash and cost about £15, it gives the Soarer 50hp, I don't know enough about the Supra Sasquahannah System but i'm sure it could be adapted easily by someone in the 'know' I have fitted a few of these and they do the same job as those damnedably expensive AVC-R units, but they do it discretely and without all that wire cutting bolleaux. 008, Don't believe the hype! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 Quote: from Mycroft on 8:05 pm on Mar. 22, 2002[br] I don't know enough about the Supra Sasquahannah System Neither does anybody else. WTF is that ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 At the end of the day people generally by Induction kits not for power but for the sound / look. There are better solutions, than just attaching a pipe with a piece of gauze on the end. No one is trying to "sell any old shite" if fact no one who has an aftermarket parts business has responded... IMO the best solution is to take the head light out and stick a moulded funnel in its place....but that's not very practical... The "ultimate" off the shelf induction kits include an aluminium box which prevents the warm air around the engine getting into the engine...but this system is of course just what the stock box does... So like I said to start with you can get replacement panel filters or an induction kit but don't expect much. What ever you do once you get bitten by the modding bug its hard to stop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Davies Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 Quote: from Martin F on 9:40 pm on Mar. 22, 2002[br]Quote: from Mycroft on 8:05 pm on Mar. 22, 2002[br] I don't know enough about the Supra Sasquahannah System Neither does anybody else. WTF is that ? One presumes he means the sequential turbos, since that would follow from the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mycroft Posted March 23, 2002 Share Posted March 23, 2002 He's quick that boy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 23, 2002 Share Posted March 23, 2002 Quote: from Darren S on 1:47 pm on Mar. 22, 2002[br]Quote: from Adam Wootten on 11:16 am on Mar. 22, 2002[br]"Induction kit" describes 'pod filters' such as the HKS mushroom filter, the K&N red&silver thing and the Blitz SUS. Do these up market air filters directly replace the original, do they make a difference on their own and do you need to adjust anything else at all? Cheers personally I think they are a total waste of money. I'd love to sell filter kits, but I can't in all honesty recommend them. The stock filter and air box seems fine with any mods I have come across on cars in this country. Going to something like the twin HKS parallel turbos poses a problem. I have to say I don't think the HKS filters do a proper job of filtering, and my own Skyline bore this out, IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mycroft Posted March 23, 2002 Share Posted March 23, 2002 Making a BFI for a Supra can't be that hard, and it will gain a GENUINE 15/20 hp, you won't see it on a dyno because the dyno is stationary, but on the road that is a very different matter. 'Somebody' with business head could make a simple cold air induction kit for the Supra, then sell it for £150 to all of you who want something that actually works, you then just fit the kit keep the original Toyota filter have a positive pressure across the filter at no matter what throttle opening (no pod has ever done that), BTW a cold air can be throated to produce a a lovely baritone roar with no loss of power, and as the 'mouthpiece' is right on the front of the car it is quite loud! (Edited by Mycroft at 12:23 am on Mar. 23, 2002) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 23, 2002 Share Posted March 23, 2002 Quote: from Chris Wilson on 12:10 am on Mar. 23, 2002[br personally I think they are a total waste of money. I'd love to sell filter kits, but I can't in all honesty recommend them. The stock filter and air box seems fine with any mods I have come across on cars in this country. Going to something like the twin HKS parallel turbos poses a problem. I have to say I don't think the HKS filters do a proper job of filtering, and my own Skyline bore this out, IMHO. I read your comments about engine wear in conjunction with HKS filters which was a bit of an eye opener... I have been thinking of making my own box out of aluminium but then comes the problem of supplying it air with out drowning it whenever it rains.... The easiest solution is put a NACA(?) duct in the bonnet right above the sealed box and use it to pile in the air but this means I either need to be able to shut the vent or never drive it when it rains. Or I need to create some ducting which goes where a rad panel would....that feckin' great big hole could be covered by plastic ducting which ten feeds into the sealed box, that would/should get around the water problem but it would be expensive to get just one made... For those of you with the air duct ontop of the radiator picture a version of it imagine a version of it which covers that whole gap infront of the radiator, when an FMIC is fitted that area gets directly exposed to outside air thus alot of air can be ducted out of there and straight into the alu intake box (which is only sealed when the bonnet is shut)....inside the intake box would be an induction cone or two Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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