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Detailing peeps - black supra product recommendations


Pabs

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Hey all,

 

I'm not getting much joy with posts on DW, so thought I'd ask on here anyway.

 

For those with Black cars, or indeed supras, what products do you use to clean/detail your car with?

 

I've got the usual claybar, washmitts, waffle weaves etc, but I don't have, nor do I particularly want, a machine polisher.

 

I really want to pay some close attention to some imperfections on the bodywork, particularly areas that have had stickers on before and you can still see where they were when you look really closely, or areas that look like bird-mess has been left.

 

So - what do you guys recommend on black cars? I hear good things about a lot of brands (Blackfire/JEFFS) but understand that black is a hard colour, with some products doing a much better job.

 

Cheers!

 

 

PS: I have searched on here already, seen Tom's detailing thread and Lewis' how to clean car thread etc.

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I have used the Natty's Blue on a black supra before and awesome results from it.

 

vbpgimage.php?do=full&p=4885&d=1165151451

 

My current choice of products is

1. Peter Richard's snow foam

2. Sonax shampoo

3. Menzerna Intesive polish (if required)

4. Menzerna Final Finish

5. Poorboy's EX-P

6. 1z Waxpolish soft (contain's fillers)

7. Chemical guys XXX glaze

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Guest DrifterWanaB

iam not mega into detailing, i do what needs to be done for a good finish

 

ill be doing on the supra soon, not tacled it yet

 

wash with a good shampoo

clay bar, Sonus Ultra fine with Poorboys World Spray & Wipe as lube

wash again

polish with Poorboys World Super Swirl Remover 2

wash again

then seal with Poorboys World Ltd Edition Natty's RED Carnauba Paste Wax (this leaves it with the real glossy wet look)

 

 

looks top when done

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iam not mega into detailing, i do what needs to be done for a good finish

 

ill be doing on the supra soon, not tacled it yet

 

wash with a good shampoo

clay bar, Sonus Ultra fine with Poorboys World Spray & Wipe as lube

wash again

polish with Poorboys World Super Swirl Remover 2

wash again

then seal with Poorboys World Ltd Edition Natty's RED Carnauba Paste Wax (this leaves it with the real glossy wet look)

 

 

looks top when done

 

No wax or sealant? and why the wash after SSR2? (Just curious really)

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Guest DrifterWanaB

5. Poorboy's EX-P

6. 1z Waxpolish soft (contain's fillers)

7. Chemical guys XXX glaze

 

i used poor boys EX-P on my white skyline worked a treat

 

so you use a sealer and a wax?

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i used poor boys EX-P on my white skyline worked a treat

 

so you use a sealer and a wax?

 

Yeah, the sealer protects the fresh paint which has been exposed by the polish. The wax and glaze add shine (1z has some fillers, so it covers those small scratches)

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Guest DrifterWanaB
No wax or sealant? and why the wash after SSR2? (Just curious really)

 

wash after the ssr2 to get te dust and stuff off

 

The nattys is the wax aint it?

 

as i say iam not proper into it so probably doing stuff wrong, just thats what i have done in that past and got good results

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wash after the ssr2 to get te dust and stuff off

 

The nattys is the wax aint it?

 

as i say iam not proper into it so probably doing stuff wrong, just thats what i have done in that past and got good results

 

If it works and you are happy with results then it is fine...I personally find half the fun is trying different products and methods, hence the reason for asking. Natty's paste is partial wax so I don't think it makes much difference :)

 

I personally find a sealant helps lock the freshness of the paint for a bit longer.

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Guest DrifterWanaB
If it works and you are happy with results then it is fine...I personally find half the fun is trying different products and methods, hence the reason for asking. Natty's paste is partial wax so I don't think it makes much difference :)

 

I personally find a sealant helps lock the freshness of the paint for a bit longer.

 

Kewl! ill try that from now on cheers

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Well my car apparently has the supaguard protection on it, but this was applied over 2 years ago so suspect it's not really doing much anymore. The car has also been polished as there is white residue in lots of hard-to-reach places that I spent most of the weekend trying to remove.

 

Currently, my stocklist of products is as follows: (and there's loads of other bits that I've forgotten about too)

 

Meguiars NXT Wash

Megs Gold Class Car Wash

Megs Claybar and detailing spray

Klasse AIO

Clearkote Quickshine

Clearkote Vanilla Moose

Megs Gold Class Liquid Wax

Optimum Car Wax

Poorboys Wheel Sealant

 

And these were all used on my Gunmetal grey Leon, and produced fantastic results. I just don't know which of the above is worth replacing for use on a black car...

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Well my car apparently has the supaguard protection on it, but this was applied over 2 years ago so suspect it's not really doing much anymore. The car has also been polished as there is white residue in lots of hard-to-reach places that I spent most of the weekend trying to remove.

 

Currently, my stocklist of products is as follows: (and there's loads of other bits that I've forgotten about too)

 

Meguiars NXT Wash

Megs Gold Class Car Wash

Megs Claybar and detailing spray

Klasse AIO

Clearkote Quickshine

Clearkote Vanilla Moose

Megs Gold Class Liquid Wax

Optimum Car Wax

Poorboys Wheel Sealant

 

And these were all used on my Gunmetal grey Leon, and produced fantastic results. I just don't know which of the above is worth replacing for use on a black car...

 

Honestly, I doubt you would see a HUGE difference changing products, as they are all decent products. With a list like that I'm surprised at the reluctance to using a machine polisher.

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TBH, I'm reluctant to go the whole machine route because it'll just cost me yet more money, and time.... neither of which I have much of at the moment. :( Plus me and power-tools generally don't mix well lol...

 

I've got a shopping list longer than my arm for bits and pieces I want/need, and I've even been toying with the idea of getting the car professionally detailed to give me a good kick start, but it's still going to cost a bomb.

 

I think results by hand will be good enough for me - but if there is a good polish / wax that I'm not using and should be - then let me know cos it'll make my life easier :D

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TBH, I'm reluctant to go the whole machine route because it'll just cost me yet more money, and time.... neither of which I have much of at the moment. :( Plus me and power-tools generally don't mix well lol...

 

 

Power tool like Porter Cable will actually cost you more money, but i disagree about time. PC and other clones of it are absolutely safe for paint (no burns as it is orbital polishing machine) and it's doing like hundreds round movements every minute, so imagine yourself doing it manually. I personally use Sonus range of polishing compounds as those are very oily stuff and do not dry out during polishing like Menzerna sometimes do. Closing it down after polishing with AG deep shine stuff and Meguires caranuba wax / Autoglym Aqua Wax. Here's effect on dark car (Storm blue)

DSC_0719 (Large).JPG

DSC_0717 (Large).JPG

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*waves*

 

You need a machine polish, that's the crux of it really, unless your hands can spin at crazy RPMs for a few hours of course. Your fingers might have to work as a paint depth gauge too just to be safe ;)

 

95% of the finish you see on a really well detailed car is down to a good machine polish IMO, the wax just enhances things that little bit more.

 

Of course you could go for a polish & wax that contains a lot of fillers and do it by hand but you are only hiding the defects and they will be back to haunt you again in a month or so. As daft as it sounds black Colour Magic will give quite impressive results, even more so if you wax over the top, it's a bit like Botox though, it's not a permanent fix and makes you feel a bit like a cheat.

 

The first thing you need to get right is the wash stage though, until you do that you'll just add scratches and swirls - lots of info on DW, in fact I'm shocked that you aren't getting the answers you want. Is this because you are asking questions that have been answered a lot already rather than searching? 2 bucket, test all cloths on a CD first to make sure they don't scratch, yadda, yadda...

 

Did you see my Supra detail thread over there? Mainly machine work though, it's really the only way forward to get good results.

 

Wax - personal choice, everyone sees different things when they view a comparison on a single car, I've had waxes costing silly money right next to ones costing £30 and you really can't see much difference on a well prepared car. The expensive one might just bead tighter and last that little bit longer maybe.

 

Dodo Blue Velvet looks nice on black, I also like Victoria Collectors and Chemical Guys 5050 for a nice wet finish, I suspect I've posted pics at some point, I usually do because I'm a bore :)

 

http://www.megaboost.co.uk/detailing/dodo-roof-00.jpg

 

http://www.megaboost.co.uk/supra/mine/detail-14-10-07/P1100729.JPG

 

http://www.megaboost.co.uk/supra/mine/detail-14-10-07/P1100718.JPG

 

http://www.megaboost.co.uk/supra/mine/detail-14-10-07/P1100847.JPG

 

 

Try out the stuff you already have though before you start spending more money on things - it's easy to get caught up in this kind of thing and get carried away trying new things.

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*waves*

 

You need a machine polish, that's the crux of it really, unless your hands can spin at crazy RPMs for a few hours of course. Your fingers might have to work as a paint depth gauge too just to be safe ;)

 

95% of the finish you see on a really well detailed car is down to a good machine polish IMO, the wax just enhances things that little bit more.

 

Of course you could go for a polish & wax that contains a lot of fillers and do it by hand but you are only hiding the defects and they will be back to haunt you again in a month or so. As daft as it sounds black Colour Magic will give quite impressive results, even more so if you wax over the top, it's a bit like Botox though, it's not a permanent fix and makes you feel a bit like a cheat.

 

The first thing you need to get right is the wash stage though, until you do that you'll just add scratches and swirls - lots of info on DW, in fact I'm shocked that you aren't getting the answers you want. Is this because you are asking questions that have been answered a lot already rather than searching? 2 bucket, test all cloths on a CD first to make sure they don't scratch, yadda, yadda...

 

Did you see my Supra detail thread over there? Mainly machine work though, it's really the only way forward to get good results.

 

Wax - personal choice, everyone sees different things when they view a comparison on a single car, I've had waxes costing silly money right next to ones costing £30 and you really can't see much difference on a well prepared car. The expensive one might just bead tighter and last that little bit longer maybe.

 

Dodo Blue Velvet looks nice on black, I also like Victoria Collectors and Chemical Guys 5050 for a nice wet finish, I suspect I've posted pics at some point, I usually do because I'm a bore :)

 

http://www.megaboost.co.uk/detailing/dodo-roof-00.jpg

 

http://www.megaboost.co.uk/supra/mine/detail-14-10-07/P1100729.JPG

 

http://www.megaboost.co.uk/supra/mine/detail-14-10-07/P1100718.JPG

 

http://www.megaboost.co.uk/supra/mine/detail-14-10-07/P1100847.JPG

 

 

Try out the stuff you already have though before you start spending more money on things - it's easy to get caught up in this kind of thing and get carried away trying new things.

 

:blink: Nice. I've never seen them pics before ;) although i cant disagree about you being a bore :p

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Very nice pics michael, what machine do you use/reccomend for the average joe michael?

 

:)

 

I guess the Meguiars G220 is the safest, easiest and cheapest option for folks in the UK at the moment, some reliability issues but the majority seem happy.

 

I have a Porter Cable from the US but you have to buy a transformer and chop the plug off etc to use it here - it's a cracking machine but a bit of a PITA.

 

As someone said above it's very difficult to damage paint with one of these machines unless you start dipping the pads in sand or being a general 'tard.

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I'm thinking of doing the same to increase the speed that I can get the job done, I'll still use the PC on the plastic parts though.

 

I think the end results can be the same, you just have to work harder over more passes with the smaller machine polishers, a big boys one will do the job much quicker but also has the potential to generate lots of heat and completely destroy your paintwork :)

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