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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Domestic Electrical Question?


Paul

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Hi, don't know if any sparkies are on this board or anyone familier with wiring but I need a bit of advice.

I'm in the process of ripping out the kitchen and will be installing new built in oven and a combination microwave.

I've looked at the tech info for these and the current draw is as follows

 

Single Oven........Max current draw 15 Amps

Combi Microwave....... Total connected load 3.6KW (15.65 Amps?)

 

Would there be any problem connecting both to the same dedicated 30 Amp supply using 6mm cable to feed them? As these are Max values and I heard something about 'diversity' being used.

BTW. I know about part P..........but I fitted these last year ;)

 

Paul

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Hi m8,

 

assuming you have a modern distribution unit, you will be using a 32A mcb & the 6mm will be fine unless it's a rediculous long run (not worked it out but I doubt that will be an issue).

 

IF you have an old fuseboard:

 

1: get shot & have it replaced so you get RCD protection

 

2: Still no problem with the above because your 30A fusewire will be protecting a cable that can handle 38A (if I remember correctly)

 

No way would both of them running flat out bust a 30A fuse, well it would take hours (again it could be calculated but i don't have the formulae handy).

 

in a sentence: Yep do it :)

 

Just as another point, your 15.56A was obviously worked out on the stated 230v, i bet if you meter your suply you get nearer 240v which brings the load down to 15A max :)

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Just as another point, your 15.56A was obviously worked out on the stated 230v, i bet if you meter your suply you get nearer 240v which brings the load down to 15A max :)

 

Infact the current draw will be higher, to calculate the current on AC you cannot simply divide the power by the voltage. You have to consider the power factor.

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Infact the current draw will be higher, to calculate the current on AC you cannot simply divide the power by the voltage. You have to consider the power factor

 

Not on domestic electrical installation as far as I am aware, although I do admit it was a few years ago I did the course !

 

Surely this wouldn't apply to a resistive load ?

 

Please enlighten me if I have missed something critical but I can't remember this being a factor on domestic work ??

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Cheers lads,

 

Right then, yes it's on an old style fuse board, I intend to upgrade it but not before fitting these.

So the max fuse is 30amp and yes there is a dedicated supply for the cooker.

The Microwave is a combi, grill etc, and a high spec Bosch one, Quantum Speed???????? Maybe that's why the rating is higher than expected?

 

Paul

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Hope we helped in some little way Paul ;)

 

FWIW, I would do it & not have any problem with doing it for myself or anybody else.

 

merckx might have a "technical" point but as i said above, in quite a few years of domestic contracting I can't ever remember a problem. Your cable is rated @ 38A & you're protecting it with a 30A wire, the chances of that wire blowing are on the borders of zero - trust me ;)

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Not on domestic electrical installation as far as I am aware, although I do admit it was a few years ago I did the course !

 

Surely this wouldn't apply to a resistive load ?

 

Please enlighten me if I have missed something critical but I can't remember this being a factor on domestic work ??

 

Doesn't matter if it's domestic or industrial, the loads involved are unlikely to be purely resistive. Infact the microwave would have some element of inductance therefore the current draw woud be higher.

 

Saying that, for most domestic installations you would simplify the calculations and use more than sufficient size cables anyway. :)

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Your cable is rated @ 38A & you're protecting it with a 30A wire, the chances of that wire blowing are on the borders of zero - trust me ;)

 

I agree, if you're just supplying the oven and microwave you'll be fine.

 

How are you wiring them in to the circuit?

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Think we better draw a line under this one m8, before we bore the arse of the other supra bods :)

 

From what I can see, we are both correct:

 

Your technical observation is correct, I agree it's not 100% resistive load.

 

My advice was correct (PLEASE dispute if I have missed something important, although I'm pretty confident my advice was both safe and usual practice in a domestic situation)

 

Looks like we got a happy customer

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How are you wiring them in to the circuit

 

From the initial post, I assumed that a new 6mm was being installed, from an unused 30a fuse. On the other end (again I assume) D/P isolator switches (I would prefer 45A cooker isolators, dunno why would just feel happier with them ??

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I don't want to pour cold water on this but are you aware that undertaking any electrical work in your home unless you are an NIC electrician is against the law?

 

Also, does your oven have a plug top on it or just a connection on the back for an incoming cable (ie to go to a cooker panel)

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Wouldn't want this bloke to have any problems with overloading

 

absolutley agree 100% m8.

 

I don't want to pour cold water on this but are you aware that undertaking any electrical work in your home unless you are an NIC electrician is against the law?

He said the work was "previously done ;) Yes the installer should be Part P reg'd which means belonging to an official body like NIC / ECa or many others by now i don't dount

 

Also, does your oven have a plug top on it or just a connection on the back for an incoming cable (ie to go to a cooker panel)

I assumed the are not, simply for the loading @ 15A. Doubtful any manufacturer would produce an appliance capable of pulling 15A & then pop a 13A plug on the end of it :stickpoke

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I don't want to pour cold water on this but are you aware that undertaking any electrical work in your home unless you are an NIC electrician is against the law?

 

I think you can do the work yourself but you have to get it inspected by the council.

 

Saying that, If you're not confident then get someone else to do it.

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I think you can do the work yourself but you have to get it inspected by the council.

 

Dunno about the council but certainly by a Part P auth sparks or the building inspector bods.

 

Part P is another useless piece of red tape, the cowboys will still do cash jobbies, no receipt not warrnaty & the only ones that will suffer are the one man band (good) spraks that can't afford the time & costs of belonging to ECA/NIC etc.

 

Bloody glad I got out of the game a few years ago :)

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Thanks all,

Yes I'm looking at running a fresh supply from a spare 30 amp out using 6mm cable. This will be the only thing off this, ie the oven and microwave.

I'm also looking at putting individual isolator switches for each (45 amp) mounted to the side of the unit they are fitted in.

As I see the new part P, it's OK to install all this as long as the building inspector for the council or someone else qualified checks it out. I can assure you though that any doubt I will contact a spark and let them tuck me up :eek: , I mean sort it.

Anyway, I did this last year, remember?

 

As mentioned earlier, this might be a good time to change the consumer unit. I know the cost of these but any idea of the sort of charge for changing one or the rough time it should take?

 

Thanks again all for in depth answers, really has helped me.

Paul

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I don't want to pour cold water on this but are you aware that undertaking any electrical work in your home unless you are an NIC electrician is against the law?

 

It's illegal to exceed the speed limit as well, even if no-one sees you. ;)

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in all honesty you'd be better off just running the oven off the 45 amp breaker you suggested and the microwave off the kitchen ring main, a 45 amp double pole switch wont have a fuse in it and in order to run your microwave you'd need to run a radial off of the 6mm circuit into the back of either a switched spur or 13a outlet, in order to connect the microwave, which will need to be fused at 13amps.

 

If you do run this radial off of the 45amp switch, either do it in 2x 2.5t&e or the 6mm.

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Just a slight thread hijack: Please can someone who knows clarify this new "illegality" of doing your own electrical DIY? I heard about it a couple of weeks back and couldn't believe my ears! I've always done my own electrical work and I'm buggered if I'm going to pay a bazzillion quid for a sparky to come out every time I want a new wall socket putting in.

 

Does this mean that B&Q won't be selling wall sockets and switches anymore?

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