MarkR Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 Where did you get the stick-on indicator repeaters? I need some too for MOT as I currently have to push indicators through the wheel arch lining so that they're visible from in line with the back of the car and 1 metre out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted April 19, 2009 Author Share Posted April 19, 2009 Any pics of this? I'll take some, didn't get round to it today. Where did you get the stick-on indicator repeaters? I need some too for MOT as I currently have to push indicators through the wheel arch lining so that they're visible from in line with the back of the car and 1 metre out. I can't actually remember, it was just a motorist centre type place. You can get them on ebay too I think. They are like these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Universal-LED-Side-Repeaters-Self-Adhesive-Back-Ultra_W0QQitemZ230334302842QQcmdZViewItem I basically wire them in, stick them on the bumper and then take them off after MOT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 (edited) Great thread Simon, the pics and information are a great resource indeed Edited April 19, 2009 by Wez (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 First of all I decided to do what Chris suggested and bin the stock oil cooler assembly and mount my filter takeoff direct to the block. The other problem you have with attaching the takeoff direct to the block is that you need a union bolt to go into the block to screw the thing into. I got a tip off supraforums that you could use a part from another Toyota which I duly ordered. However, it's too short - it ends up flush with the block. I hunted high and low for an alternative - you can use a Ford part apparently but it's a USA part and a pain to source. Eventually I found an extension which has a male thread and a female. I cut that down, threaded the male end into the block and the Toyota union I'd bought into the female - result a nice bolt length to attach the takeoff to. Is there enough room to mount the filter on the back of the takeoff? Mine currently has the stock oil cooler with a sandwich plate and then the filter on the end, I am looking to remove the stock cooler and wondered if the sandwich plate and filter would go direct onto the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkR Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 Thanks for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted April 20, 2009 Author Share Posted April 20, 2009 Is there enough room to mount the filter on the back of the takeoff? Mine currently has the stock oil cooler with a sandwich plate and then the filter on the end, I am looking to remove the stock cooler and wondered if the sandwich plate and filter would go direct onto the block. I don't see why not. There's probably more room because the stock cooler is quite thick. But it does point the filter at a slight angle where it would be straight without. I'll have a look later and see how much space there is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 I don't see why not. There's probably more room because the stock cooler is quite thick. But it does point the filter at a slight angle where it would be straight without. I'll have a look later and see how much space there is. From pics I have seen it looks like the stock cooler is almost remote mount as it appears to be on an angled arm or am I looking at wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted April 20, 2009 Author Share Posted April 20, 2009 From pics I have seen it looks like the stock cooler is almost remote mount as it appears to be on an angled arm or am I looking at wrong? It is at an angle. I've found a pic, attached. I can't take a pic of that bit of the engine now installed in my car because the intake mani is in the way but there's loads of room there, you'd have no problem with a sandwich plate and filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted April 20, 2009 Author Share Posted April 20, 2009 Here's a couple of pics of the heater hoses. Bit hard to take photos of but you get the idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 Simon, That big blue hose at the back of you engine bay.... Is that connecting from the ~20mm diameter hardline down by your downpipe and then running up and connecting to the heater hose protrusion coming through the bulkhead? If so it must have a reasonable bend near the bottom and then a v.tight radius bend at the top - is that right? If so - do you know where I can get one in black? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted October 2, 2010 Author Share Posted October 2, 2010 Haven't updated this in a long time, so here goes. With the engine in and running I needed to get it MOTed before I could run it in. Unfortunately it failed! That's because there was an exhaust leak somewhere round the turbo/manifold. One of the bolts holding the wastegate pipe to the manifold I had forgotten to tighten up – result a blown gasket which was a pain since it was an odd size triangular one that took me ages to find. I changed that and could still hear a leak! So I faffed about changing the turbo gasket – the manifold flange looked like the one I had may not be sealing. Tried making my own from copper, all to no avail. Eventually I gave up and decided it must be either a crack in the pipework or the wastegate gone bad. I basically couldn't be arsed trying to fix it and suspected I might be near the limit of the manifold anyway so I decided to switch to one of Paul Whiffin's tubular manifold and pipework kits. That meant I had to rejig the intercooler and intake pipework I had trouble with the oil return fouling the compressor cover (I have a larger cover than most I think with a 3inch exit). After fiddling around with it I managed to get it to fit (just) using a 45 degree union. It's all very fiddly! The other thing I needed to do was do something about the throttle response. The return spring on the throttle body is very weak, and that coupled with the massive size of the butterfly made it really horrible to drive, the throttle was WAY too sensitive. So I solved that by switching from the 90mm TB to a 75mm one and adding a pair of extra return springs. Here's the engine bay pics:- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted October 2, 2010 Author Share Posted October 2, 2010 Anyway, it then passed MOT so I set about running it in. I needed to get it finished by Le Mans (June this year) so I booked it in at SRR with Ryan to re-map it. The first mapping session didn't go fully to plan! Ryan did all the part throttle and cruise stuff and then we found it was misfiring under boost. The usual suspect is coilpacks, Ryan helped me switch a couple for some spares he had to see if we could cure it – it improved a bit but it was still a problem so we got all the cruise, idle etc sorted on the road and called it a day. What we had done on the dyno was very encouraging though! We also had issues with boost hosing blowing off – mainly because I had forgotten that I'd done a temporary job on the intercooler to throttle body pipe when I shortened it for the new intake mani and it didn't have a bead on! So I bought a new set of coilpacks and changed those. I think the real issue though was the ignitor ground – it's normally grounded to the intake manifold so I'd had to move it after fitting the RMR one and the location I chose was not giving a great connection, so I cleaned it up and moved it. That sorted the misfire. I sorted out the intercooler pipework – it really needs to be welded together properly but I used a few rivets around the circumference near the edge to provide a bead. With all that done it was time for the 2nd attempt. I was running very short on time by now since it had to be up and running so I could take it to Le Mans in June! As soon as we got it on the dyno it was apparent there was a huge boost leak somewhere which turned out to be a burst silicon connector - unfortunately the most awkward one coming off the turbo. What had basically happened is the oil feed hose had been pressed against it and the heat had caused a weak spot which split. Here is where I have to thank Ryan for giving me a hand and Charlie from SRR for lending me a silicon pipe off one of his cars. It was a 90 degree rather than 45 but we managed to bodge it together although I did leave most of the skin off my arm in the engine bay in the process! After that it was on with mapping! So I'll get to the point, it made 673BHP at around 1.5BAR boost. Torque was around 525ft/lbs. We didn't take it any higher because the tyres had got hot and were starting to slip on the dyno and Ryan noticed the engine coolant temps rising slightly under full power. Also the air temp sensor packed in (this later turned out to be a short in the wiring where the heat shrink round a solder joint had split under engine bay temps). Otherwise we would have hit 700BHP for sure. The throttle response is awesome too, the combination of the head work and intake manifold/throttle body work beautifully. And the noise is unbelievable with the titanium exhaust, it screams like crazy at full whack and sounds amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted October 2, 2010 Author Share Posted October 2, 2010 Before going to Le Mans I just had enough time to get it to the bodyshop to have my new front bumper sprayed (the old one was cracked for the 2nd time so pretty dead), TRD spoiler sides sprayed and the scratch where someone had keyed it years ago on the boot sorted. It made it there and back no problem and since then I've switched on the traction control option on the Motec – the car is now spinning its wheels in the dry in 3rd at peak torque so it was kind of needed! I have adjustable slip as per RLTC with a rotary switch. Motec or Racelogic want 100 odd quid for one but it's basically a rotary switch, a few resistors and an LED so I went to Maplin and knocked one up. I also fixed a couple of other Motec issues. Ever since it was installed the fuel pump has run constantly once the ignition is on, despite being set to run for 8 seconds. An output on the Motec is hooked up to trigger the EFI main relay, the fuel pump relays are triggered from that (they have a separate power feed direct from the battery). I couldn't figure out how the EFI relay was being held on after the 8 seconds. Eventually I realised after going through the wiring diagram with a fine tooth comb that it was the idle air control valve which is controlled by the Motec too (although it has never actually worked)! The way the Motec drives this is designed to work for unipolar (like the Supras) or bipolar stepper motors. The normal way it's wired on the Supra there are 2 +12V connections wired to the EFI relay. The standard ECU switches the 4 stepper coils to ground. The Motec uses +5 and -5 volts across the coils (as that works for bipolar too). That meant it was sending +5V back through the +12V feed which was enough to trigger the EFI relay. I cut the two +12V connections to the IACV and no more constant fuel pump! Two of the IACV connections were also hooked up backwards so correcting that made my IACV work. If you have a Motec or other aftermarket ECU that's hooked up to the IACV it's worth checking the wiring... I've also redone my rad fan controller so it runs both fans at slow and high speed rather than one or both fans and so it runs them at low speed with the aircon on which it didn't before. Much better. Finally got round to fitting my Mocal oil cooler for the power steering too. Just need to regass the aircon now I've hopefully fixed the leak it had and have my wheels refurbed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted October 2, 2010 Author Share Posted October 2, 2010 Pic from Le Mans this year... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 Glad to see you back on here again mate. Nice job too, well done for sticking with it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdistc Posted October 3, 2010 Share Posted October 3, 2010 Great writeup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest reece P Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Thread from the dead, but hats off to you! Done a great job on it, my friend bought this car off you and just wow! He took me out in it and makes my evo feel like it's going backwards!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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