SimonB Posted January 31, 2009 Author Share Posted January 31, 2009 Another pic of the assembly so far below. The alternator, water pump, valve covers, plugs and coilpacks are on, as is the cut down wiring harness. Which was a right pain as I couldn't remember where it went and it also has to move due to the new intake manifold. Just have to bolt on the exhaust mani and turbo stuff and there's not much more to do before it can go back into the car. Oh, and I forgot to change the pilot bearing while the crank was out so I'll have to pull the old one out and change it when it's off the engine stand. Which will no doubt be a PITA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 Have you got access to a lathe, or by any chance do you have a spare gearbox input shaft? if so you can make a nicely fitting shaft that's a snug fit in the pilot bearing bush, or use the old input shaft. (I use a piece of steel bar turned to size). Pack the bearing recess in the crank with grease, getting rid of as many air pockets as you can, if yo feel brave enough to turn the engine so it's standing on the crank pulley you can pour melted grease in. Put the tool in the end of the bushing / bearing and belt it with a big hammer, it will hydraulic out the bush / bearing. You may need a few goes at this, repacking as you try again. Of course, if you have a correct size internal bearing or bush puller and a slide hammer use those I don't have an internal puller small enough, so i hydraulic them out. Looks a lovely job. If you are running a proper aftermarket ECU might I suggest you use a fast acting intake air temp sensor? Magnetti Marelli do one, and they are much better on turbo engines than the fully encased, very slow reacting ones Toyota use. Keep those pics coming, nearly done now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 Great Work Simon. Did you manage to find out the thread size of the bolt needed for when removing the water cooler on the oil take off? Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 Great Work Simon. Did you manage to find out the thread size of the bolt needed for when removing the water cooler on the oil take off? Ryan You mean where the nipple goes into the block for the water feed? No, it's a NPTF thread of some sort I think, probably 1/2", I'll unbolt it and measure it at some point because it'll bug me having a bit of hose blocking it off! I'll post up the thread size when I do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 You mean where the nipple goes into the block for the water feed? No, it's a NPTF thread of some sort I think, probably 1/2", I'll unbolt it and measure it at some point because it'll bug me having a bit of hose blocking it off! I'll post up the thread size when I do. Basically i am wanting to do the same as you on the post 143 and remove the oil cooler water section, then just bolt my oil cooler take off straight to the block. Wondered if you measured the thread needed for going into the block. Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 really like the n/a water pipe mod, i would definately take the opportunity to insulate it to prevent it picking up unecesary heat from the exhaust manifold, great work fella Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 Basically i am wanting to do the same as you on the post 143 and remove the oil cooler water section, then just bolt my oil cooler take off straight to the block. Wondered if you measured the thread needed for going into the block. Ryan Oh right. Well, the union bolt you need to go into the block that the filter takeoff attaches to is standard oil filter size, which is 3/4" UNF. Apparently you can use the Ford part number e8zz-6890-a if you can get hold of that, here's a pic of it from Supraforums: Trouble with that is there's no way of knowing how far into the block to screw it and I'm still not sure it's long enough. The part I bought was a Toyota part number 90404-19013, which is definitely too short on its own. So I had to also buy one of these to extend it a bit. https://www.europaspares.com/OIL_COOLING/OIL_UNIONS__ETC/OIL_SYSTEM_UNION___EXTENSION_BOLT___EB__2172.html That made it too long, so I cut down the extension a bit. I have taken off the nipple that screws into the block and feeds water to the stock cooler now, it's 3/8NPTF thread size, so I've ordered a plug to block that off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 Thanks Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Here's a pic of the oil takeoff mounted direct to the block, you can see the coolant port plugged at the top. I've fitted the fuel rail and injectors - I sent them to be cleaned and tested since they've been sitting around for a while. My exhaust manifold was looking a bit rough after a couple of years of daily use - the heat coating had gone. So I cleaned it up with acetone and sprayed it with black satin exhaust manifold heat coating with an airbrush (it needs to go on thin). I also rewrapped the downpipe and midpipe with heat wrap as that was looking a bit frayed too. The turbo is bolted on now, I've taken a few pics so you can see the turbo installation. The coolant pipes are not attached because I've managed to lose one! I was going to make new ones anyway but I'll have to order some more aeroquip fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 So I'm pretty much finished, everything else is going to get done with the engine back in the car. Just need to get it off the stand, change the pilot bearing and get it back in! Actually I'm not sure of the best way of supporting it off the stand before it goes in, don't really want to rest all that weight on the sump. I guess I need to bodge something to support it by the engine mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Are you up for the club day at Llandow this year Simon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Are you up for the club day at Llandow this year Simon? That's on the 20th June isn't it? May be, that's the weekend after Le Mans so it'd better be finished by then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 That's on the 20th June isn't it? May be, that's the weekend after Le Mans so it'd better be finished by then! That's the badger. Be good to see you/your car on track. Get signed up! More motivation to make sure it's good & ready! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Excellent work Simon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Simon - what size is your compressor cover? Is it 4" intake, 3" out and 0.70A/R? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 Simon - what size is your compressor cover? Is it 4" intake, 3" out and 0.70A/R? Yes it is. At least the intake and out sizes are that, I'd have to check the A/R when I'm at home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewie Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 I'm really concerned about the size of your garage. My little bedroom is bigger than that! LOL!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 I'm really concerned about the size of your garage. My little bedroom is bigger than that! LOL!! I know! Mind you it's filling up with shelves and tools now. There's no way you could actually park the Supra in there and get out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Subscribed -- Simon Out of curiosity what is you main Trade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Yes it is. At least the intake and out sizes are that, I'd have to check the A/R when I'm at home. Great - thanks Simon. Nice job on the build too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted February 20, 2009 Author Share Posted February 20, 2009 Subscribed -- Simon Out of curiosity what is you main Trade I'm a software engineer - I work on air traffic control simulators. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 So what I decided to do was replace my TT water pipe from the water pump with a NA one, which doesn't go round the back of the block. Much neater. Do you have the part number for the NA pipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted February 22, 2009 Author Share Posted February 22, 2009 Do you have the part number for the NA pipe? Yep, it's the no. 2 water pipe (from an NA) 16278-46010. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted February 22, 2009 Author Share Posted February 22, 2009 I've been playing musical engines in the garage today. As Chewie pointed out it's not the biggest, and I needed to get the new one off the engine stand and into a position where I can hoist it into the car which I'll have to move into the front of the garage so it's on a level. Since the front of the garage had my old engine sitting in the way I had to move that, then move the new one off the stand and rotate it 180 degrees, before finally moving the old one again somewhere out the way. Bit of a pain especially since I only have one set of engine hooks so had to keep transferring them between engines! Anyway, I finally have the engines in the right place and the front of the garage cleared ready. With the engine on the ground (on wooden blocks on bricks) I could pull the pilot bearing out. Since I'm a sucker for expensive tools I'll only use once I got hold of a blind bearing puller, which makes this a piece of cake. You just put the collet thing through the bearing, turn the handle to lock it in and then use the slide hammer to pop it out - takes less than a minute. Pic attached. Tap in a new bearing and job done. I then put the flywheel on. You basically tighten the bolts in several passes in the sequence shown on the pic to 49Nm. Then you mark each bolt with a line and tighten a further 90 degrees in sequence. You can see the marks I put on the bolts in the pic. I haven't cleaned up the flywheel yet which is why it looks a bit skanky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 looking good - and with regard to garage envy its not the size of the garage that matters its how you use it thats the important bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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