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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

which clutch racing or not?


jazz1

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(my cars twin turbo facelift 1996)ok guys please leave feedback experiences and whats the best clutch to buy, my car is stock all iv done is an intercooler mod nothing major and i might go bpu in summer, my current clutch is on its way out so im replacing it next month, homer did recommend teh hks street but i want good feedback on which one is good for purchase:)

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At stock or BPU levels use either a stock clutch or possibly fit replacement TRD disc and clutch cover.

 

I would avoid any aftermarket clutches unless you actually NEED one (ie. the clutch cannot cope with the power), as they all tend to be heavy to use and noisy.

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Stock would be perfect in fairness, i drove my friends one across the uk with an RPS clutch (Street max maybe?) and i found it fine

 

yea just been speaking to the trader hes had great feedback from it, i might go for this cant be asked with stock as two mechanics said racing clutch would be better

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yea just been speaking to the trader hes had great feedback from it, i might go for this cant be asked with stock as two mechanics said racing clutch would be better

 

Well theres plenty of guys runnin bpu with stock clutches, but to be honest the rps is good and not too expensive either

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As mentioned on the phone...

 

If that mileage I saw on your car was correct then it's probably the lowest mileage on any Supra in the UK (even beats the Do-Luck one!) The engine shouldn't go pop any time soon.

 

As you're not planning anything beyond BPU for the forseeable future I'd either opt for a stock clutch, or a very mildly uprated aftermarket one such as the HKS street. There's just no point going for a seriously uprated one at BPU level, especially due to the heavier pedal and harsher engagement you'll get.

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Available now: Uprated MKIV TT clutches.

 

 

I use the stock, brand new driven plate, as it is correctly

balanced, doesn't judder and will hold all but mega torque

highly modded engines or cars used for drag racing.

I modify a stock brand new cover to give more clamping force.

The reason I tooled up to do these is some of the aftermarket

US clutches I have fitted SEEM to be built from used cover

assemblies with reground friction surfaces, and a stronger

spring. I have had hellish trouble getting these to fully

release, because due to this seemingly thinner cast iron

friction face, the geometry of the clutch goes to pot, and

being a pull type clutch (the hydraulics pull the bearing

away from the engine, rather than the more normal push type)

it is a lot harder to effect a cure.

 

For 475 pounds, no VAT to pay, you get a brand new driven

plate, a brand new modded cover, and a brand new release

bearing. I would rather fit myself so any complaints are down

to me, I see too many clutches juddering due to someone without

the right gear allowing the gearbox input shaft to bend the driven

plate. The gearboxes weight is allowed to swing on the plate centre,

bending the centre, or clutches fitted to patently buggered flywheels.

 

However, I might be persuaded to sell to people using bona fide fitters to install one.

Toyota use a dual mass flywheel (the flywheel is in 2 parts, an inner and

outer assembly, damped in the middle) which is now showing signs

of wear causing a lot of rattle when idling or on very light

throttle openings. For God knows what reason they are charging

about 270 quid for a new one, they look more like they should be

over 500 to me, but don't say anything :-) So if the flywheels

old enough or abused enough to be scored it's best replaced.

If pressed I will sell the clutch kit, which includes a new release

bearing for a 3rd party to fit.

 

Fitting by myself will cost £175.

 

Reply privately if interested please. [email protected]

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