ardasaliah Posted January 18, 2005 Share Posted January 18, 2005 How do you check if your running lean/rich? I know how to check it when at idle i.e ox1 pin and read voltages. I wanted to know how it would be done through the rev range+ What sort of readings should you get as you increased the revs. Also how is it done when under boost- would you need a rolling road? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 18, 2005 Share Posted January 18, 2005 You *NEED* a wide band O2 sensor and read out. WIDE BAND being the operative term, a normal narrow band won't show mixtures far from stoichiometric, which is the nme for a low emissions mixture ratio. For turbo engines we are most interested in far richer mixtures. So you need a wide band set up and either look in real time, or on a rolling road or engine dyno. They were VERY expensive only 3 years ago, they have now dropped substantially in price. No serious modifier of turbo engines should be without one, IMO. I use a Motec PLM (Professional Lambda Meter) as I use a lot of Motec stuff on race engines, but these people make an excellent lower cost unit: http://www.mrm-racing.a.se/English/MRM_lambda.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ardasaliah Posted January 18, 2005 Author Share Posted January 18, 2005 OK- so not possible with basic equipment then. What symptoms will be present if a supra was running rich. I ask because I am using a bleeder on the wastgate and was wondering if this would cause the car to run rich as its a UK spec with a MAF and not a MAP as on the J-spec. I've ached and found nothing on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 18, 2005 Share Posted January 18, 2005 OK- so not possible with basic equipment then. What symptoms will be present if a supra was running rich. I ask because I am using a bleeder on the wastgate and was wondering if this would cause the car to run rich as its a UK spec with a MAF and not a MAP as on the J-spec. I've ached and found nothing on this. The air "leak" from a bleed valve is insufficient to cause rich running, it won't be that. If it's running very very rich it will blow black sooty smoke from the exhaust and leave the plugs sooty. Rich mixture at idle will show on any MOT test centres meter. Measuring under load requires something more sophisticated though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ardasaliah Posted January 18, 2005 Author Share Posted January 18, 2005 Thanks Chris- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ardasaliah Posted January 19, 2005 Author Share Posted January 19, 2005 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=36681&item=7946912995&rd=1 Will one of these gauges work from a stock o2 sensor- + How easy are they do set up? Any instructions My car has only a few mods. I.e. up boost by 0.15 bar. Not intended to go higher. Would it monitor, be it on a crud level, the air/fuel rations- I don’t have a problem- I just like to monitor things- SAD really Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted January 19, 2005 Share Posted January 19, 2005 You can check if you are running rich at idle with the Ox1 Diagnostic Pin , but the only way it indicates it is by sticking at 0.8v+ which indicates that the narrowband O2 sensor is out of range It's not a tuning tool at all, but it is a problem diagnostic tool. -Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted January 19, 2005 Share Posted January 19, 2005 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=36681&item=7946912995&rd=1 Will one of these gauges work from a stock o2 sensor- + How easy are they do set up? Any instructions My car has only a few mods. I.e. up boost by 0.15 bar. Not intended to go higher. Would it monitor, be it on a crud level, the air/fuel rations- I don’t have a problem- I just like to monitor things- SAD really Cheers Sorry guv, that won't work at all. The stock O2 sensor is narrow band, it can only read a small amount of variation off stoichometric air fuel ratios for closed-loop emissions reasons. It also uses a 1volt signal range and is calibrated across this range differently to wideband O2 sensors. Widebands use a 5volt range, go from 19.5:1 to 8:1 AFRs, have their own power and signal module, and even sense the oxygen content of the exhaust gas in a different way The gauge is for one of these. -Ian Edited to say - you can get an AEM wideband sensor + gauge for about £320, and that will be invaluable for any tuning or problem diagnosis you may need in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ardasaliah Posted January 19, 2005 Author Share Posted January 19, 2005 Just checked the voltages from the ox1- The volts were going mad Jumping around from 0.1 to 0.6 to 0.7 back to 0.1 etc etc. I checked the volts about 5mins after starting the car- do i need to wait longer This doesn't sound good- right? The car drives fine. What voltages are the correct ones from ox2 ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 19, 2005 Share Posted January 19, 2005 Just checked the voltages from the ox1- The volts were going mad Jumping around from 0.1 to 0.6 to 0.7 back to 0.1 etc etc. I checked the volts about 5mins after starting the car- do i need to wait longer This doesn't sound good- right? The car drives fine. What voltages are the correct ones from ox2 ? That's how it should be with a narrow band O2 sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ardasaliah Posted January 19, 2005 Author Share Posted January 19, 2005 Hi Ok confused again! After reading Ian C's post ' '''''1) multimeter the OX1 pin in the diagnostic port and the battery negative terminal while it's on warm idle. You should see a voltage oscillating between 0.7 and 0.5v. If it's at 0.5 or less it's buggered and is reporting an artificial lean condition and ups the fuelling. If it's at 0.8v+ constantly it's reporting a true rich condition and the overfuelling is being caused by something else.'''' I was under the impression that I should have a contant reading after the engine was warm. My readings were bouncing around from 0.1, 0.6, 0.4 etc etc. i think Iam being thick?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Cordiner Posted January 19, 2005 Share Posted January 19, 2005 I quite like my plxdevices wideband - works out under 200 quid to your door. http://www.plxdevices.com/onlinestore_international.htm It doesnt have inbuilt dataloging, but I can hook up its wideband output to my fc-datalogit with my power FC. It also has a narrow band output, so I always wondered if that would make it possible to do away with the stock 02 sensor and by running the narrow band output back to the loom on my MR2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ardasaliah Posted January 19, 2005 Author Share Posted January 19, 2005 Hi Ok confused again! After reading Ian C's post ' '''''1) multimeter the OX1 pin in the diagnostic port and the battery negative terminal while it's on warm idle. You should see a voltage oscillating between 0.7 and 0.5v. If it's at 0.5 or less it's buggered and is reporting an artificial lean condition and ups the fuelling. If it's at 0.8v+ constantly it's reporting a true rich condition and the overfuelling is being caused by something else.'''' I was under the impression that I should have a contant reading after the engine was warm. My readings were bouncing around from 0.1, 0.6, 0.4 etc etc. i think Iam being thick?? So is this OK- Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted January 19, 2005 Share Posted January 19, 2005 I can only put up what I've experienced If you have a fluctuating voltage, that's a good thing as it's your ECU in closed loop mode constantly adjusting to get the best fuel burn for emissions. If the value is rock solid then you have a problem, so it does sound that yours is OK, even though the voltage range is slightly different to what I've had. Could be your multimeter responds faster, could be a facelift vs original difference, whatever -Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now