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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Brake judder (CW look here :) )


cheekymonkey

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I get brake judder at high speeds, which then affects low speed braking until the brakes have cooled down for a bit which doesn't fill me with confidence.

 

Chris did you notice any play in the front wheel bearings on my car, or so I need new front discs?

 

Could it be due to the centre holes in my wheels being too big? Still don't have any spigot rings :(

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I get brake judder at high speeds, which then affects low speed braking until the brakes have cooled down for a bit which doesn't fill me with confidence.

 

Chris did you notice any play in the front wheel bearings on my car, or so I need new front discs?

 

Could it be due to the centre holes in my wheels being too big? Still don't have any spigot rings :(

 

get some spigot rings first, but this wont have nothing to do with brake judder. maybe your brake disks are warped?? then again have you got j-spec brakes? as they aint the best when they get hot!

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get some spigot rings first, but this wont have nothing to do with brake judder. maybe your brake disks are warped?? then again have you got j-spec brakes? as they aint the best when they get hot!

 

I have UK brakes so they should be OK, I should have had the front discs changed as well but I completely forgot. Had new pads all round and completely new UK brakes at the rear 2 months ago.

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I am having ongoing issues with another MKIV on "funny" wheels warping, or giving the symptoms of warping discs. Try spigot rings, or even removing and refitting the front wheels. On stock rims waeping of UK discs is VERY rare.

 

I think I know the one you mean, there aren't spigot rings on that one so I said get them fitted and see if the problem goes away :) I figured as the whole hub gets hot under braking, the wheel studs expand slightly and the wheels start to move about. The physical act of changing brake disks reseats the wheel and appears to fix the problem. Just a thought.

 

-Ian

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The car's weight should be taken on the centre bore of the wheel, not the bolts / studs, which SHOULD be used purely in tension. Asking them to work in shear, which is what they have to do on a car with incorrect spigot bore wheel sizing, is a REALLY good way to have studs shear, and for the wheel to run with poor concentricity. A stock rim has an unabated heat path from the bell of the disc into the wheel face, which gives good, and more to the point, even cooling, and even clamping. many (most?) aftermrket rims shed the weight their *rap material gives them by undercutting this area, so the rim face abuts the disc bell in only segmented areas. the heat path, and the clamping forces are therefore compromised. A wheel is not just a wheel, it's the very first thing a car designer decides on, and the whole suspension and brake system is based around it, and its tyre sizing. Fiddle about with them at your peril.

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I've always had a slight wheel vibration, Ibrar helped take the major wobble away I got with speed by replacing the plastic spigot rings I got from Gaz with my wheels to Metal one's... I keep reading what Chris says and I keep thinking of putting my 16's back on lol. I also have worse vibration the higher the tyre pressures on braking lol, so have my tyres inflated slightly lower?

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On this subject, can anyone tell me where I'd go for spigot ring adaptors, would they have to be custom made?

 

Ibrar should be able to sort you out, he did me. Let him know the make and model of your wheel and if you can get a rough measurement of the spigot diameter of the wheel, that should help.

 

-Ian

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Ibrar should be able to sort you out, he did me. Let him know the make and model of your wheel and if you can get a rough measurement of the spigot diameter of the wheel, that should help.

 

OK I already spoke to him but he only had one type of ring in stock... I still need to measure the hole though.

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