Homer Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 Thanks for the advice and input guys, especially Scott. Very clear now mate! I've had a think about this today and will be going for OEM facelift side repeaters instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethr Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m3s01000501.htm Vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 These must be fitted with one side repeater indicator on each side. Instead of a separate lamp, the side repeater might be part of the front direction indicator if it includes a wraparound lens. http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m3s01000502.htm Acceptable wraparound lens marking Lamps incorporating a side repeater are marked either with an ‘E’ mark in a circle or an ‘e’ mark in a rectangle above which is a number 5. Some vehicles are fitted with a wraparound lens with no European approval markings. These can be tested by standing approximately 1000mm to the side of the vehicles rear bumper with indicator on. If amber light can be seen coming through the front lens (not a reflection) this is acceptable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitz Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Just had a look at Raven's car and noticed where he had his side indicators. He also has the TRD style wings but just food for thought, again linking to your initial idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Raven Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 I approve the use of that picture. My fave one so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitz Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 I approve the use of that picture. My fave one so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted August 8, 2010 Author Share Posted August 8, 2010 Bringing this one back from the dead... MOT is booked for Tuesday Still got a brake line to replace, but ended up working on TRD-Robs Supra instead (seeing as I'm taking that one to Pod, it took priority!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 Nice, bet ya happy about having a supra for the pod:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supralad Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 any pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted August 8, 2010 Author Share Posted August 8, 2010 Nice, bet ya happy about having a supra for the pod:) Yeah, definetly, will be the first time I'm there in a Supra any pics? No new ones as nothing has really changed, there a few further up the thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted August 9, 2010 Author Share Posted August 9, 2010 - Faulty brake line changed and the system is bled. Gave the car a check over and can't find any other issues... - Paid the insurance (got a great deal from Sky ) Only issue is I lent one of the 30amp cabin fuses to a mate and now can't find another one, hope the windows don't have to work for the MOT All set for tomorrow though!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luxluc Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Good luck mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 nice one mate, look forward to saturday now mate be good to meet some of you guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted August 11, 2010 Author Share Posted August 11, 2010 Well, it failed, no surprise there 9 failures in total but only one major one... - Parking brake has no reserve travel - Offside side repeater missing - Nearside side repeater missing - Offside headlamp too low - Nearside headlamp too low - Offside front brake hose has insufficient room to move - Offside wheel bearing rough when rotated - Rear fog lamp emits light other than red (it's pink!) - Front brake imbalance (34%!!) The MOT was booked through my neighbour who'd asked for the tester (older chap with 20 years experience) to go through the car top to bottom to make sure it's safe. It took nearly 2 hours, he was very thorough and checked absolutely everything! Not bad for £35 So, a few jobs to get done, mostly simple stuff, but the wheel bearing one is going to be a pain. I'm a bit annoyed about that one as the hub assembly on that side was bought from a breakers on here... The car seems to drive okay on the road but the brakes are very weak, however it was quite nice to be able to drive it after all this time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRD-Rob Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Yeah it's about time you drove you own Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 not too bad a list mate, hope you get things sorted quick so you can enjoy driving it again. best of luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdistc Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Nice work, Darryl - light at the end of the tunnel, mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobD Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Just read a good 20-30 pages of this! Very good work bud! You've transformed this car! I may have a little present for you when my NA TT gets done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted August 11, 2010 Author Share Posted August 11, 2010 Nice work, Darryl - light at the end of the tunnel, mate! Absolutely Andy, at least there's a check list to work through now rather than 2nd guesing what might be wrong Just read a good 20-30 pages of this! Very good work bud! You've transformed this car! I may have a little present for you when my NA TT gets done! Sounds promising, please tell me it's your car I've been running though the best options to fix the two biggest issues which have come up (the other stuff is simple), I'm thinking: 1) Front brake inbalance: It's got a big pull to the right when braking, but the brake test results show that the front right has 34% less braking power than the front left. That's a huge different! The brakes came off a well used track car, but were all in useable condition at that point, however it's been stood for well over a year... The tester mentioned the front driver side inside pad was extremely worn, so would it be correct to assume there is an issue with the sliders? Would a re-grease be enough or would it be best to go the whole way and rebuild the caliper? Edit: The brakes are not binding.. 2) Rear wheel bearing: I have asked Keron to suply a replacement hub assembly rather than rebuild the exisiting one. The rebuild cost is well over £350 using OEM parts What would you do? Any thoughts appreciated Edit2: The car weighed 1552kg with 1/4 tank of fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inferno Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 Wow, I really admire the time and effort you have put into your Supra - very wel done! As for the brakes, if it doesn't cost much to have them tested, you could always try just re-greasing and re-testing, then if that is not producing the results you were expecting, going for the rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemanhead Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 Just read all of this, its an insane amount of work but after it all you must now feel empowered with all the knowledge you have gained. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Reid Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 The brakes are more likely a stuck piston expecially if they are multipiston. In my experince rotating the pistons and pushing them in an out with a dose of high temperature grease is enough to loosen them off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 (edited) 1) Front brake inbalance: It's got a big pull to the right when braking, but the brake test results show that the front right has 34% less braking power than the front left. That's a huge different! The brakes came off a well used track car, but were all in useable condition at that point, however it's been stood for well over a year... The tester mentioned the front driver side inside pad was extremely worn, so would it be correct to assume there is an issue with the sliders? Would a re-grease be enough or would it be best to go the whole way and rebuild the caliper? Edit: The brakes are not binding.. 2) Rear wheel bearing: I have asked Keron to suply a replacement hub assembly rather than rebuild the exisiting one. The rebuild cost is well over £350 using OEM parts What would you do? Any thoughts appreciated I'd strip and rebuild the brakes, maybe fit new pads if you have major unequal wear and change the fluid as its not hard or costly to do. Can't you just fit a new bearing in the hub ? surely that wont cost anything like £350 unless you buy a new hub as well which i dont see why you would unless the outer case had spun in the hub. If the hub is good you still have swap them over so the only extra work is pressing out the bearing, whats a bearing cost ? £50 ish Edited August 12, 2010 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted August 17, 2010 Author Share Posted August 17, 2010 Wow, I really admire the time and effort you have put into your Supra - very wel done! As for the brakes, if it doesn't cost much to have them tested, you could always try just re-greasing and re-testing, then if that is not producing the results you were expecting, going for the rebuild. Thanks mate, that means a lot coming from someone who's built a car to your standards I think our build projects couldn't be more different though, especially on the budget The brakes are more likely a stuck piston expecially if they are multipiston. In my experince rotating the pistons and pushing them in an out with a dose of high temperature grease is enough to loosen them off. I'd strip and rebuild the brakes, maybe fit new pads if you have major unequal wear and change the fluid as its not hard or costly to do. Thanks for your input guys. They're twin piston stock jspec ones, when I installed them around 1.5 years ago the sliders were fine and when last inspected about 6 months ago they were fine too, so a stuck piston could well be the issue.. If the inside pad is far more worn than the outer would that be any more likely a piston rather than a slider issue? The fluid is all new, but I do wish to replace the pads and discs when it properly gets on the road, I was hoping to get it running on the current setup so that money can go on fixing a few other issues before the brakes get a complete refurb (or replaced with larger items) Can't you just fit a new bearing in the hub ? surely that wont cost anything like £350 unless you buy a new hub as well which i dont see why you would unless the outer case had spun in the hub. If the hub is good you still have swap them over so the only extra work is pressing out the bearing, whats a bearing cost ? £50 ish I don't know if the hub is any good, it came off a crashed car and I don't have too much faith in it. The wheel sits a wierd angle on that side so would rather just swap it out than rebuild a potentially bent one. Besides, after looking at the bearing and associated parts costs on Whifbitz it seems £350 would barely cover a single hub rebuild In the end I bought a replacement hub from keron for £40. The bearing seems fine in this one, so is a lot more cost effective than rebuilding, even though it's not "ideal" As always, appreciated your input and thoughts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted August 19, 2010 Author Share Posted August 19, 2010 Some bits arrived today... Replacement hub from keron (in great condition). This is cheaper and easier to fix than replacing the bearing in the old hub. Only £40 too. Also a ful set of good condition suspension arms picked up today (Thanks JustGav!) to sort out the dodgy drivers side rear, I'm only going to use a few of them as they are Gavs spare set. No cost Here we go again, 3rd time lucky! Started stripping the old hub off, but got rained off. Hopefully tomorrow will be better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted August 20, 2010 Author Share Posted August 20, 2010 Finally replaced the rear hub today. Yay, one big issue ticked off the MOT failure sheet Also replaced the front lower suspension arm as it was slightly bent. The wheel now points in the right direction! The ABS wire and sensor on that side was also replaced as there was a nic in it which I think was causing an occasioanl ABS error fault to register. Seems to be okay now. Had to take half the interior out again to get to the ABS plug, god knows why it's mounted behind the rear speaker! All removed: Hub with the rough bearing and suspension arms gone (the short arm is the bent one): Back together with the replacement hub (hopefully the last time I have to do this job!) This pic shows where the ABS connector is, a PITA to get to. Hopefully if the weathers okay tomorrow I'll have a crack at sorting out the handbrake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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