My new Supra/rebuilding Dude's drag car

[Homer]

Forgot to update before posting the pic last month, so just to keep it all up to date... Sorry for the long post, there's nothing very interesting here anyway!

 

The 16 inch wheels mentioned earlier in the thread turned out to be no good. They were not from a supra (6.5inx16 all round) and 2 of the tyre's had blisters. I think Gav identified them as from a Camry. Thanks a lot to the club member that sold them as perfect stock 16's...

 

So, Supraloopy/Pig came to the rescue with Pig's old 17in wheels. One of the wheels had damage but it had two brand new goodyear eagles on the rears and part worn’s on the front. Not bad for £50

 

Unfortunately after getting the damaged rear refurbed it turned out to be buckled. Colsoop came to the rescue again with a 17in rear he had spare and only charged a tenner to cover delivery So, the car now has a set of UK 17's and good rubber all round.

 

I also decided to change the exhaust. Heckler provided a rusty old HKS super dragger for free, but soon realised it was too far gone to be saved. To be honest with this car I want it to be near stock, so picked up a stock stainless exhaust from Mawby for a bargain price. The thing was like new despite being from a 15 year old car. Fitted that, but was missing the stock gaskets, so it blows a bit...

 

 

Forgot about the washer jets until going through the MOT check list and realised I'd never fitted the missing lines. Keron supplied a set of these for a couple of quid so these are now working. Keron also supplied a few other odds and ends like the front slam panel strip to fill out the gap.

 

Also picked up some new bits this week from Toyota: a rear drop link, some clips for the brake lines (old ones were missing), replacement thermostat, stock exhaust gaskets, bonnet stoppers and a few other parts. Also thanks to M5W TT for the supplying a set of stock wheel nuts and meeting up while he was in Reading

 

All now fitted apart from the drop link and exhaust gaskets.

 

Also, since it was sunny, decided to give the car it's first clean since last June (the moss was starting to grow again!). Car started first time as always, nothing seized and brakes/clutch are still working fine despite being stood for so long. Also removed the rest of the stickers from the car & windscreen.

 

It's clear now that the front bumper is no good, it was from Jazz's car but had spent years in a shed and has "drooped". It's also faded badly and has many marks, so will try and find a replacement. Number plate fell off with the weight of the snow this winter so will screw it on next time

 

Edit - spend so far, probably well over £1k

 

[Homer]

Is the tow ball still fitted???? Damn handy that for going to the tip:blink:

 

Sadly that was gone before the car arrived!

[Homer]

Pulled the entire exhaust off again and refitted using new gaskets, but this revealed a tiny hole on the 2nd cat and a possible leak at the manifold. Bugger... Might need to pull the manifold off now and see if it's just a gasket or has cracked. Also fittedthe stock wheel nuts.

 

Next job tomorrow is to change over the tyre from the buckled wheel to a decent one, and rotate one of the front ones (my mistake). Fixed one of the brake lines clips, but had forgot about one of the rear ones, another order going to Toyota for that.

 

Also replaced the faulty drop link with a new one (£45, ouch). How rusty are those Teins?!

 

 

Also fitting the facelift indicators and cleaned the yellow off the headlamps (needs doing every 6 months it seems!)

 

[adnanshah247]

lol popped by darryl when i was in his area, the car looked very different, the difference was though that Homer had cleaned it! LOL

 

was messing with the headlights when i got there.

 

thanks darryl for having a look at my car while i was there, (hit a huge speed hump on the way and messed the undertray up a lil)! really appreciate it bud! hope you didnt get too drunk that night

[Homer]

Good to see you mate and thanks very much for the beers, had a few on Saturday night and were very welcome after 6 hours of spanner work! I lol'd when you didn't know what 'Stella' was though

 

Thinking about it, yesterday was the first time I've really done anything with the car since you first came by!

[adnanshah247]

Good to see you mate and thanks very much for the beers, had a few on Saturday night and were very welcome after 6 hours of spanner work! I lol'd when you didn't know what 'Stella' was though

 

Thinking about it, yesterday was the first time I've really done anything with the car since you first came by!

 

lol! i dont drink, i never have, i dont know jack about it!!! lol - i was so clueless in the shop! the woman serving actually laughed.

 

the amount you have helped me in the last 6 months bud its the absolute least i can do. i was completely lost until you helped!

 

whens the tt lump going in? you can count on me to help bud as i will be able to learn a lot more about the actual fitting in and out of a 2JZ. give me a ding if you need any help and ill be there

[Homer]

Just to keep things up to date... have pretty much finished the car now.

 

- Fixed the horn issue (was not wired up & both horns were faulty). Just waiting on replacement ones from Keron now. Thanks to heckler and Ibrar Jabbar for the help here.

 

- Wired up the fog light (After much discussion and me trying to get my head round it), fitted a red bulb into one of the reverse lights and a lit on/off switch in the dash. Thanks to JS2004 for the help here.

 

Pic of the horn issue and new fog button here:

 

- Wired in the front indicators and fitted the orange bulbs, needed to buy some stock looms at £38 a pair, ouch! Only for them to be chopped up for the plugs...

 

- Got my friendly neighbour (aka the kwik fit fitter) to change one good tyre from the buckled rear wheel to a decent wheel from Colsoop. Also rotated one of the front ones only to find that one is buckled as well! Sourced another replacement so will swap that over shortly.

 

- Fixed the rear brake line clips, but found the front ones were still not correct, ordered more parts from Toyota to fix those.

 

- Found a leak on the front passenger brake line, thought this was fixed but obviously not. Ordered a new one from Toyota, due in this Sat.

 

- Found the source of the exhaust blow in the engine bay. It only looks like the rear manifold is not bolted to the cat correctly or the gasket is gone, so will get that done when the car goes for the MOT. I was quite happy about this as I thought it was a cracked manifold or manifold gasket, so that saves a lot of work.

 

- Fitted new windscreen wipers, the old ones had perished so badly while it's been stood there was nothing but metal left!

 

- Made a new boot floor from 4mm board

 

- One (tedious) job I've been wanting to get done was to tidy the engine bay. The engine bay itself was absolutely filthy from it's previous use and had loads of rust spots from the bolts that had been left on the panels while it was in the yard at Pheonix. Also had loads of mould and green stuff growing!

The engine also had been sprayed over the top with white paint (presumably a marker from the scrap yard). Spent near 5 hours this afternoon with degreaser, white spirit and a tooth brush to clean it all up. Also cleaned and sprayed all the rusty bolts.

 

Before (the pic really doesn't show how bad it was!):

 

 

After (yeah, I know the rad cowl is missing, still trying to source one, but it's not essential right now):

 

So, just a few things left now:

 

- Fit the new horns

- Fit the new brakes lines, clips and bleed brakes again

- Fit front number plate

 

After which it's ready for the MOT, which hopefully Graham S is going to do a pre-MOT inspection, then provided he's happy with the car, drive it to his place on trade plates for the MOT

[TRD-Rob]

Looking good mate

[MarkR]

Nicely done

[j_jza80]

Nearly there

[Homer]

Quick update...

 

- Fitted the stock horns from keron, worked first time. They really do sound though!

 

- Fitted the missing arch trims (again from keron).

 

- Fitted the missing drivers door strap. (yep, keron again) Good job too, was getting fed up of the door slamming shut on my leg when working on the car!

 

- Tidied up ECU area, secured everything and fitted the stock cover

 

- Fitted front number plate

 

- Fitted the stereo and finished the final interior fittings. Only items missing are a new set of OEM black velour sunvisors and a black casing interior light (very rare, but sourced and waiting for a time to meet up with Wez to collect them).

 

 

Only 3 things left now for the MOT:

- Fit new front passenger brake line and bleed system (again!)

- Fix exhaust gasket leak on the rear manifold/1st cat join

- Fit side repeaters (need some input..)

 

Here's the car as it is, what do you think of adding the side repeaters in this location? They are orange blob ones now, but will change for clear/smoked or possibly ones from another car... I don't want to cut the wings...

 

 

So near to being ready for the road, but have run out of money until next month

 

Thanks to Keron for provided all the weird odds and ends, great service.

[Fitz]

Looking good Darryl

[heckler]

as far as I am aware - you dont need the side repeaters if you have the facelift front indicators, as the indicator can be seen from the side.

[Jamesy]

Excellent work mate. Sheer commitment this one.

[Homer]

Cheers guys I'm just frustrated I can't afford to get it on the road this month..

 

as far as I am aware - you dont need the side repeaters if you have the facelift front indicators, as the indicator can be seen from the side.

 

I'd asked this in a previous thread and queried many MOT testers but all said the same - it needs to have side repeaters to pass the MOT. There is a line in the MOT docs that states they are required.

[Fitz]

I'd go with your initial suggested approach, to save you cutting into the wing, I'd get a set of clear front markers from Paul not sure how much he's selling them for and place them where the facelift ones go (i.e. where you've circled)

Edited April 30, 2010 by Fitz (see edit history)

[lui]

wow what a difference last time I saw that it was all named up in a corner at pheonix looking all sad & lonely full of spider webs & now brought back from the dead what a change well done Darryl mate looking very nice bet you cannot wait to get it on the road now.

[Scott]

Cheers guys I'm just frustrated I can't afford to get it on the road this month..

 

 

 

I'd asked this in a previous thread and queried many MOT testers but all said the same - it needs to have side repeaters to pass the MOT. There is a line in the MOT docs that states they are required.

 

The lights have to be visible at 120 degree angles. In other words you position yourself so that you can see the rear indicator and make sure you can see the front/side indicator within 120 degrees. If you can, its a pass.

 

Some front indicators will allow this if they protrude. Unfortunately the facelift ones don't stick out enough.

 

I would go a tiny bit lower than you have marked Darryl. Reason being is the wing is bolted in approx where you have marked. Don't want to be hitting into the support, or the rigid strengthened areas of the bumper.

 

Stock facelift side repeaters tint better than clear ones if that makes any difference. I tried both and went with the original ones.

 

Looking great by the way. Has came a long way, not long to go

[MarkR]

The MOT chap told me to stand in line with the back of the car and a metre to the side. If you can see the side indicators then you're in the clear.

[Homer]

I'd go with your initial suggested approach, to save you cutting into the wing, I'd get a set of clear front markers from Paul not sure how much he's selling them for and place them where the facelift ones go (i.e. where you've circled)

 

That was the idea really. I don't think stock clear ones will look right though, a bit to bright IYSWIM.

 

The lights have to be visible at 120 degree angles. In other words you position yourself so that you can see the rear indicator and make sure you can see the front/side indicator within 120 degrees. If you can, its a pass.

 

Some front indicators will allow this if they protrude. Unfortunately the facelift ones don't stick out enough.

 

I would go a tiny bit lower than you have marked Darryl. Reason being is the wing is bolted in approx where you have marked. Don't want to be hitting into the support, or the rigid strengthened areas of the bumper.

 

Stock facelift side repeaters tint better than clear ones if that makes any difference. I tried both and went with the original ones.

 

All good points Scott, thanks When you say 120 degrees, would that be from the front? I.e 60 degrees off the rear?

 

Stock facelift ones are again coming into the picture here, just a shame they are so damn large! I'd looked at the option you'd used but can't see them working on a silver car.

 

Fully understand what you're saying about the mounting point, checked that today and as you say they need to clear the wing and bumper mount point which pushes them down about 3 inches from the top of the bumper.

 

The MOT chap told me to stand in line with the back of the car and a metre to the side. If you can see the side indicators then you're in the clear.

 

That'd be a fair bit less than the 60 degrees Scott mentions, but either way will rule out simply not having any side repeaters.

 

Thanks again for the other feedback, Much appreciated. It's "only" taken 2 years to rebuild this thing

[d-_-b]

As another possible option for the indicator position;

 

What about if you were to fit smoked ones here (circled in orange)

 

 

Im sure you could create a bracket to hold them there and run the cable up the wing. If they were smoked too then you would hardly see them when off (always a plus) and you also have the added bonus would save you from cutting the wing or your bumper...

 

Only an idea for your consideration though

 

Very nice work on the car, great to see it restored from how it arrived on your driveway.

[Scott]

Could even take the wing off and fit them behind the mesh

[Scott]

That was the idea really. I don't think stock clear ones will look right though, a bit to bright IYSWIM.

 

 

 

All good points Scott, thanks When you say 120 degrees, would that be from the front? I.e 60 degrees off the rear?

 

Stock facelift ones are again coming into the picture here, just a shame they are so damn large! I'd looked at the option you'd used but can't see them working on a silver car.

 

Fully understand what you're saying about the mounting point, checked that today and as you say they need to clear the wing and bumper mount point which pushes them down about 3 inches from the top of the bumper.

 

 

 

That'd be a fair bit less than the 60 degrees Scott mentions, but either way will rule out simply not having any side repeaters.

 

Thanks again for the other feedback, Much appreciated. It's "only" taken 2 years to rebuild this thing

 

It's really difficult to explain as when it was explained to me there was lots of pointing going on lol.

 

What you do is turn the indicator on and stand back from the car (I don't know the distance to stand back unfortunately). Keep the rear indicator in your view and then move till you can barely see it. Point at the indicator and imagine this being the start of the angle. You must be able to view another indicator light from within 120 degrees of this position. If you can, it's a pass, if you can't... it's a fail. This goes for all around your car. No matter what position you are in, you must be able to view 2 indicators within 120 degrees. The most difficult area to create this effect is the side. The rear and the front, along with the corner angles, are all very straight forward.

 

You must be able to view 2 indicators from 120 degrees of each other. Obviously the distance you are away from the lights comes into play. I can't remember if I was told or if I have just forgotten so I know it isn't of much use. What I can tell you is that if you put the indicators approx where you have planned, they are 100% legal.

Edited May 1, 2010 by Scott (see edit history)

[MarkR]

I mounted mine inside the wheel arch in the wheel liner (behind a plastic cover to protect against stones). You could see nothing on the car body but they were visible from the correct place for the MOT. You just have to be conscious that other people may not see them, so when you're driving be extra vigilant before changing lanes.

[evinX]

I have a set of custom mirror shells with indicator lenses in them:D, just need painting, and rewiring the stock loom to the mirror with a organge led in them!

 

Or you can just stick them behind the mesh, that will look very clean and should be legal, cant see why they wont once visible when working:)