and1c Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 Hi folks, My engine (2jz gte) is out the car and currently on my engine crane prior to putting it on my engine stand for a strip down and rebuild using some saucy parts. (its going in my Mk3 Supra) My question is 1/ Whats the preferred method for getting the 2jz crank pulley off with the engine out of the car (and hence several options of bar locking not being available) Im not too keen on using 2 M8 bolts into the threads in the Damper in case it radges it but if this is the trusted method I will do it!? The engine is out of an auto car and hence has the drive plate for an Auto tranny as opposed to manual flywheel. This doesnt seem to offer as many convenient options for locking as Im used to on past engines (not 2jzs) due to being a lot thinner so Im basically looking for best options to get the bolt off!! Compressor and impact wrench is not a goer presently because my compressor is now a garden ornament due to being knackered! Also, does anyone know of a good source for a suitable locking tool please? to buy or hire? (Im South Yarkshire if theres any kind folks locally!) Additionally, does anyone know the torque value for this bolt off the top of their head? All help appreciated. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 Torque, off the top of my head is 320, maybe 340Nm. You're gonna need a strong engine stand for that baby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 Torque, off the top of my head is 320, maybe 340Nm. You're gonna need a strong engine stand for that baby. Hmm. Cheers Rob. My engine stand is pretty sturdy but not super strong! I was thinking of using a couple of jack stands under the block with some hardboard on top to stop the stand/engine flexing downward but that doesnt solve the 'twisting' problem that will become apparent when I get my 5 foot scaffold pole on the end of my breaker bar onto the bolt!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 the tightening torque is 400 nm which is firkin tight, so to crack it you will probably need about 600 nm !, have you got an air compressor, i borrowed a high torque impact wrench but still ended up with a pair of stillys on the impact socket as well ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 the tightening torque is 400 nm which is firkin tight, so to crack it you will probably need about 600 nm !, have you got an air compressor, i borrowed a high torque impact wrench but still ended up with a pair of stillys on the impact socket as well ! Ouch..600nm Im not so bothered about getting the torque on it as Im a pretty big bloke and i will get a beefy mate or two round to help. The problem I can see is locking the crank to stop it turning while trying to get the bolt off... (and not damaging anything at the same time) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 With that said Im sure some folks have done it with the engine out before....and hopefully they will chime in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 Loosen off three flywheel/plate bolts by a couple of cm, in a staggered formation, and stick a jack handle through them braced against the floor (if it'll reach). That'll lock it up nicely if the engine itself is secure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 Loosen off three flywheel/plate bolts by a couple of cm, in a staggered formation, and stick a jack handle through them braced against the floor (if it'll reach). That'll lock it up nicely if the engine itself is secure. Nice idea Ian. Thin I will have a look into that one this avo.Thanks please keep them coming guys if anyone else has any suggestions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 As an option, if all other methods fail, could you sling it back in the car minus gearbox, onto the engine mounts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 As an option, if all other methods fail, could you sling it back in the car minus gearbox, onto the engine mounts? Not a bad thought at all mate but the shell is currently in a different location to the engine so although it is feasable to get the two into the same place at once... I think I am going to have to do it out of the car unfortunately I did think of one possible solution although its a lot of messing about.... make up a box section cage to bolt to the engine mounts and support the engine square on the floor hence giving me a solid platform? I will put that at the bottom of my list though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 you could turn the engine upside down, remove the sump and carefully position a metal bar between a crank blade and the engine block...........a rectangular sectioned bar will ensure you down get it slipping. your axle stands under it idea, is a good one to prevent downwards movement i would have a mate lean over it to counter the torque you'll apply...... basically lots of force required so be careful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 you could turn the engine upside down, remove the sump and carefully position a metal bar between a crank blade and the engine block...........a rectangular sectioned bar will ensure you down get it slipping. your axle stands under it idea, is a good one to prevent downwards movement i would have a mate lean over it to counter the torque you'll apply...... basically lots of force required so be careful! Cheers Scooter. indeed. lots of force going to be dished out on it asap!! I was thinking to borrow a beasty compressor and pinch a 3/4" impact gun off a mate. That 'should' do it but I suppose it depends how tight the bolt it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 A decent half inch impact gun will get the bolt undone, a 3/4 inch may be overkill if you use it to torque it UP again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 A decent half inch impact gun will get the bolt undone, a 3/4 inch may be overkill if you use it to torque it UP again Thanks Chris. Can you confirm what you are using to lock the crank whilst using the impact gun to undo the bolt please? As to putting the new bolt on (I assume they are stretch bolts for one use?) Ive got access to a 500ft lbs torque wrench so I should be ok, again provided I can make or buy a suitable locking tool.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 No need to lock it up at all. the inertia and friction of the engine will hold it. it may rotate very slowly, but a decent impact gun would undo the bolt on a crank just sat on the floor, out of the engine, it uses shock, not brute force. same for re fastening, although a torque wrench is safer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 No need to lock it up at all. the inertia and friction of the engine will hold it. it may rotate very slowly, but a decent impact gun would undo the bolt on a crank just sat on the floor, out of the engine, it uses shock, not brute force. same for re fastening, although a torque wrench is safer. Thanks for the heads up on this Chris. Impact wrench it is. Now I just need to find a 12cfm+ compressor (ideally 15+) so it doesnt make that 'fluffy' sound an air tool makes when it is gasping for breath Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 To save you some possible aggravation even a small compressor should work, the gun will have the bolt undone long before even a small tank is exhausted enough for the compressor to kick back in, if it's going to undo it at all. the compressor won't have to match or exceed the guns air requirements. I have a superb 3 HP Ingersoll Rand single phase compressor for sale, BTW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 To save you some possible aggravation even a small compressor should work, the gun will have the bolt undone long before even a small tank is exhausted enough for the compressor to kick back in, if it's going to undo it at all. the compressor won't have to match or exceed the guns air requirements. I have a superb 3 HP Ingersoll Rand single phase compressor for sale, BTW Hmm. I once borrowed am 8cfm (iirc) compressor (nearly new condition) and it wouldnt take a tough nut off a coilover, although to be fair the air requirements of the impact gun were about 7cfm I think. It did ...eventually.....get it off after several waits for the air tank to refill, but thats where my scepticism came from and you have pm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now