Fargo Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 Hi all, Hoping to fit my uk spec front brakes and will also be flushing out the old fluid for some Motul stuff. Question though, whast the best method when changing the fluid spec, would you simple pump the brake letting the old stuff come out whilst toppng up with the new stuff, would there be a problem with mxiing the two in this way. or should one drain the whol lot then refill with the new stuff and bleed in the normal manner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fargo Posted January 19, 2008 Author Share Posted January 19, 2008 bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 Drain and then flush through with fresh fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fargo Posted January 20, 2008 Author Share Posted January 20, 2008 good stuff, As simple as that, drain out refill and bleed through, how much fluid will i need, (as he tries to search for the service data) thanks again for the advice Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyT Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 good stuff, As simple as that, drain out refill and bleed through, how much fluid will i need, (as he tries to search for the service data) thanks again for the advice Chris. Have 2 litres of Dot 5.1 ready mate. Capacity is rated at 1.5 litres and then some for flushing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 A higher DOT number does not necessarily make for a better fluid. Some of the very best race fluids are DOT4. Depends on what properties you need from the fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyT Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 A higher DOT number does not necessarily make for a better fluid. Some of the very best race fluids are DOT4. Depends on what properties you need from the fluid. Thanks Chris. Standing corrected. Forgot about that because all anyone recommends is 5.1.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fargo Posted January 20, 2008 Author Share Posted January 20, 2008 thanks Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 Sorry to jump in here but I also want to do a brake fluid flush, bleed to accomodate my new rear calipers and track day spec fluid. Are the products you can buy for one man brake fluid flush and bleeding any good? I really hate the old stomping on the pedal and wasting tons of fluid technique. There is one here - http://www.brakebleeder.com/technical.php Any tips, guides on one man Supra system brake fluid flushing and bleeding would be gratefully received. Cheers Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderpigcity Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 Sorry to jump in here but I also want to do a brake fluid flush, bleed to accomodate my new rear calipers and track day spec fluid. Are the products you can buy for one man brake fluid flush and bleeding any good? I really hate the old stomping on the pedal and wasting tons of fluid technique. There is one here - http://www.brakebleeder.com/technical.php Any tips, guides on one man Supra system brake fluid flushing and bleeding would be gratefully received. Cheers Justin\ dot 4 is fine dont waste money on dot5 you wont tell the difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 \ dot 4 is fine dont waste money on dot5 you wont tell the difference Yes thanks the fluid I have purchased is dot 4 track temp spec as supplied by Chris Wilson but it was how to flush out my old crappy fluid and with what new kit was the question really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbloodyturbo Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 what about the dot5.1 toyota supplies? I bought two bottles of that for my LS400 caliper conversion and I asked the guy was he sure that dot5 was suitable for this age of car (it says dot3 on the MC and I dont want to damage any seals) and he said that is the only type of fluid they put in any cars they get in now and it was all he could supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethr Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 are compatible (DOT 5 is silicone and shouldn't be mixed with the others). IIRC, 5.1 is more hygroscopic than DOT 4, and should therefore be changed more often Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dani_r Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 what does this 'IIRC' mean that everyone seems to use? *sorry for the stupid question! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 If I Remember Correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dani_r Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Ah! Thanks very much! I've seen it a few times and wondered what the hell it was! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 There's some dreadful misinformation here. DOT 5 is synthetic and adding it to a system with DOT3, DOT 4 or DOT5.1 will result in a jelly like mess and a poosible failed brake system. DOT 5.1 is the 5 series fluid for conventional systems. Synthetic fluid (DOT 5) is for very specific, none performance usage, usually by classic car buffs as the stuff rarely damages paintwork, can be left in the system for years without absorbing water, and has good lubricity. What it doesn't have is a good dry boiling point... Most high performance racing fluids are DOT 3 or DOT 4, as racers change their fluid very regularly and are not worried about the wet boiling point as the fluid is never left in long enough to absorb much moisture. The racers are only interested in the dry boiling point. This is what the owner of a big heavy car with marginal disc sizes and pad area should be considering if the car is driven hard, especially on track. http://moodle.student.cnwl.ac.uk/moodledata_shared/CDX%20eTextbook/dswmedia/brakes/brake/comp/brakefluid.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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