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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Max power output from VVTI


csa

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now, what's the deal with the VVTI.

 

People here in Denmark tends to hesitate when the talk comes to tuning the VVTI.

 

is it any more difficult to map than the non vvti?

 

is there any limitations to single/big twin power output?

 

is the parts different and more expensive?

 

 

..in short...whats the fuss about?

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VVTI's are more complex. With complexity comes cost through extra mapping of the Drive-By-Wire and VVTi functions etc. A piggyback ECU IMO is simply not enough, you need to use a full standalone (with or without the stock ECU running normal functions like AirCon and even the VVTI).

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If the cost of mapping the VVTi worries you then just don't use it. If the (in the scheme of things) small cost of getting the VVTi mapped is a deal breaker then modding Supras probably isn't for you.

Why restrict yourself to older model Supras for the sake of say £200-£300 extra mapping fees?

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I think he meant VVTi in comparison to non-VVTi with regards to limitations. In other words, do they both hit the same power barriers that need to be overcame or can one shoot a bit further than the other.

 

Just ask as i am curious too :D

 

Scott =op

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I think he meant VVTi in comparison to non-VVTi with regards to limitations. In other words, do they both hit the same power barriers that need to be overcame or can one shoot a bit further than the other.

 

Just ask as i am curious too :D

 

Scott =op

 

No they are the same engine, just the head is more complex. HKS do a replacement VVTi intake cam in the Valcon kit.

 

The VVTi should infact be capable of more midrange than the non VVTi...so a STOCK VVTi setup is able to deliver more power across the rev range than a STOCK non-VVTi.

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Jake; didn't you get yours mapped recently as a full install, including vvti map on the new ecu?

 

Chris Webley has his mapped too but they binned the FBW but kept vvti IIRC.

 

There is another on the board that uses a copy of the map that mine was created with.

 

FBW trottle is good for det detection; if mine is not happy it will just pull the throttle, I've seen it do exactly this on the dyno. Keeps your engine healthy and will ultimately save it if you have a big problem,

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FBW trottle is good for det detection; if mine is not happy it will just pull the throttle, I've seen it do exactly this on the dyno. Keeps your engine healthy and will ultimately save it if you have a big problem,

 

Bit belt and braces, don't really see the point, as ECU will immediately pull ign timing if dets detected.

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It pulls ignition too in stock for so I believe, but when it pulls throttle it feels like a 30% engine cut.. and then you know somethings wrong. On the dyno it just chops the top of the power curve and tries to feed it back in along a line of maximum tolerance.

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