Paul Whiffin

Exactly the same symptons I used to get, tighten those bolts up and the noise will go away. It can also be caused by fluid leaks on to your engine mounts.

Erm, where the hell did I see it. Think it was www.mkiv.com somewhere, can't remember exactly now sorry. Let me know if it fixes the problem.

Its most probably the lower arm bolts lose, I tightened them up on mine and the noise went away. I then had a 4 wheel alignment done as well to make sure it hadn't gone out of adjustment and it had, worth getting done definately. If not the engine mounts are apparently a cause of it. Try the lower arm bolts first though, in fact torque all of them while your under there. Paul

Be careful when undoing the bolt that holds the caliper halves together, when I used to have Jap spec brakes on mine, it snapped off leaving the thread in the caliper. Didn't bother me at the time as I was changing to UK spec.

Adam, doesn't the 2.5TT work in parrarel rather than sequential? From what I've been told, a small single turbo like the PHR stage 1 or Sound Performance 57 will spool just as if not quicker than the stock twin set-up. Obviously really low down power will be less than with the stockers but when you get to around 3600rpm a thunderstorm is unleashed. To me the big twins/T88 large singles are a waste of time because of the lag involved, from what I've been told full boost isn't reached until around 5500rpm, bit pointless unless you increase the rev limit which is of course possible but not really needed for a road engine. Why HKS doesn't make a small twin kit I don't know, there must be a reason for it. Cheers Paul

I run 18/19 psi but have seen 22 psi on my std Jap turbo's. No problemos to date, been like that for about 16,000 miles now.

I don't think it is, I have spoken and personally met a few owners of single turbo'd cars and they seem to know what they are talking about to me. May be the HP figures seem a bit unrealistic but qtr mile times don't lie. Anyway I'll be able to tell you all soon.....

Greddy 3 row I/C is regarded as one of the best in the US, most of the big power Supra's seem to use this. I think thats what Leon has got in his beast. With regards to going Single or Twins, in my view going the twin HKS route to me seems a bit of a waste of time unless you are drag racing your car, from what I've been told lag is a major problem. Single seems to be better, apparently an Sound Performance SP57 kit will spool quicker than the stock twins in sequential mode and still able to produce huge amounts of power. Paul

Yes, they are an indicator/side light unit, you don't have to wire up the side lights, I haven't bothered personally, no reason why you can't though.

Nope they fit in the same place as the pre96 cars, Marcus has one of my bumpers on his car which allows them to be recessed. All you have to do to fit them is cut one of the threads off, then just use the std holes on the bumper. And a little re-wiring is needed as well, nothing major though.

Hi all,(& Marcus) I sell the late type front indicator units that Marcus and I have fitted to our cars. They fit the earlier cars as well, no probs. Price is £90 pair plus delivery and VAT. Thanks Paul P.S. Nice front bumper you have fitted to your car by the way Marcus...

Hi all, I've got a problem with my Dads 1995 BMW 325i Coupe that I've been trying to solve for awhile now. When the engine is cold it hunts like mad, revs up to about 1500rpm and drops down to about 500rpm, sometimes it cuts out, sometimes not. When the engine is warm it runs fine. So far its had a new thermostat, oxygen sensor, idle valve, its been to BMW for a diagnostic check and came up fine, they haven't got a clue what the problem is. Anyone know what this might be? Thanks Paul ** Special offer ** Supra chrome dial surrounds £55 plus del/vat.

If anyone wants an FSE valve, I've got a brand new one sitting here. I bought it for mine and didn't fit it in the end. E-mail me if you are interested. Regards Paul

I didn't take any pictures no, what you have is fine. The only part that needs changing on your article is the wiring description, its easy once you know what you are doing. If I did again I would have it done in a flash.

Thanks for the help on this one Pete, once you get stuck in there the wiring is quite easy. Cheers Paul

I reckon this sounds like the spacers are causing the problem because the wheel isn't centering properly, its probably spinning round like an egg. I had a similar problem with my turbo Mini a long time ago and thats what it was. I would NEVER fit spacers to any car ever again. Wouldn't recommend shaving your wheels down either. Take them back to the suppliers and get them to sort it. Cheers Paul

Alright all, I've just fitted the UK spec. 550cc injectors and UK pump to my Jap Mk4 TT, wow what a difference. The jerkiness I've been trying to cure for the last 19 months has finally gone! Its so much smooooooooooother now, best thing I've done driveability wise. I'll find out tomorrow what it all does to the fuelling on the rolling road, only problem is I don't know what it was like before. One thing I did find was a split o-ring on the old injectors, whether that was when I pulled them out or not I don't know, may be it was split before and that was causing the car to jerk and be generally unsmooth, who knows. Cheers Paul www.whifbitz.co.uk/supraparts.htm [email protected] Tel: 020 8367 1286 Fax: 020 8362 1244 Mob: 07774 835062

So whats the point in getting adjustable cam gears then? Or are these only needed for 272's?

Just thought I would let you all know that I fixed the holding back problem I had, it turned out to be the FSE fuel regulator. I put the standard one back on and hey presto loads of lovely power. Going to send it back to my supplier for them to check it out. Cheers Paul

No mesh as standard, this is easy and cheap to do, so its up to the owner if they want it or not. My holding back problem is back again, bugger, I'll have to pop over to Leons tomorrow and test this damm VSV. Bollocks.

Not yet, I want to wait until its on the car first. I'll let you all know when its done definately.

Didn't say anything about it actually, just said they would replace it and that was it. I'm going to fit a seperate tank in when I fit my new FMIC bumper is about 10 days time, that way I'll be able to bung some of the Methanol I've had sitting around for about 6 months in as well.

I use normal tap water normally, at Bentwaters I was using Evian!! Thought I would treat my car. I give the filter a clean out every 2 - 3 months, doesn't seem to make much difference.

I remounted this one next to the battery and its lasted about 6 months, better but still not good enough.

Thats good news. Don't know about mine, I haven't driven it since last night, probably go for a blast in it tomorrow when I get my 4th replacement ERL pump fitted back in.