SteveR

Your battery and/or alternator could just be on the way out.

Here you go: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?270923-A-few-new-supras-in-for-spares-breaking-dismantling

Try Keron, he's a breaker. Just replace the whole unit containing the clocks.

The management has been passed back to the local government control after the failed vision of private enterprise which built the on-site hotel, rollercoaster, blah blah and then ramped prices up and tried to force competition away, in order to pay the bills for it all. Whoever runs it long term will tun it much more like it was, which suited tourists, locals and local businesses alike. You either meet the noise limit or you try to creep past the marshals and hope you don't get spot-checked. Tanebe touring medallion on my single = no issues.

Either you were v lucky, or someone had replaced them previously (i.e. and not bothered with the glue on the screw thread that (A) is pointless overkill [thanks Toyota] and (B) makes the job such a PITA in the first place).

There are 4 rubber blocks (2 pairs - left and right) about 2" by 1" in size that sit towards the back of the boot area. One part of the pair is on the body, the other on the boot lid: when closed they come together and stop the boot lid from bouncing or rattling about. When they get old they harden and the flex they once had, that absorbed all the little knocks and bangs as your drive over our imperfect roads is lost and little rattles and squeaks start. The solution is to take them out and replace with new, fresh rubber ones. The ones attached to the boot lid are usually easy, the ones that need cutting/burning out are the ones on the car body. It's a bitch, don't lose your temper else you'll risk damaging something. Here's a few photos of what you're up against that I spotted when googling...

Try to unscrew them, but it won't work. Then, get a very sharp knife and cut/pull away the rubber, leaving the exposed screws. Get a gas soldering iron (and take the tip off so you have a mini blow torch you can aim at the screw heads and not get the bodywork), some wet rags (to place around the bodywork when you're heating the screws, to stop heat before it does any damage), and use a screwdriver/some decent grips to work the screws every now and again during heating. You have to get the glue to melt a bit, unscrew them a bit, melt a bit again unscrew a bit again. It's annoying but easy once you have done it once.

I don't recall any speed bumps last time I went, but that was 2~3 years ago. Burna lives nearby so might be able to check they haven't installed any and let us know, if he spots this post. Just park up the top end with each other as the neighbouring cars; all good. I've never seen that car park even half full at lunchtime.

The roll cage I have waiting to go in my MR2 has plates that butt-up against the back of the cabin behind the driver & passenger (i.e. the engine bay firewall). You then drill through the firewall where the pre-drilled holes in the plates line up, and line up another plate with those holes on the other side of the firewall (in the engine bay) and bolt it through to the cage; so you get as sandwich of: cage plate - firewall - backing plate. I thought for things like this you either bolted a plate through from the other side (as I've described) OR welded something into the cabin. I'm not sure why you'd have a plate and still weld? Although I admit I haven't looked at the link, perhaps I should.

This is at lunchtime - what better than a steak lunch on your anniversary? She can still make the evening do.

No worries, sorry if I was OTT and jumped down your throat. If it's just for the look, fix it to the bonnet and don't bother with any holes. Honestly, it'll be fine.

And Dnk drives faster than me, so it's fine at 180mph too then.

Donkey, the guide doesn't hold it on. "Doing it right".... pfft. Criticise when you know what you're on about. I have the scoop but no air guide. It's fine at 175mph.

Just fit the scoop, but don't bother adding the hole & air guide underneath.

RaceChrono is a great app, free on Android for a limited period.

Be nice to see you over in our region.

There are two RSPs - an early one and a later one, I forget which is slightly lighter than the other but there is a difference. (Same paint code as each other, but a slightly different hue.)

Mount it to the Landcruiser as if it were a massive spoiler.

There are others in the DragonCol pic thread - by Ellis and other members - but that is one of my personal faves (not to mention great quality) and it'd be a shame if it wasn't at least submitted.

If these haven't been submitted then prompt Ellis!

Announcing the Midlands Christmas Meet up for a few drinks, lunch and and a general catch up! ...at the Miller & Cater steakhouse Everyone is very, very welcome whether you're new to the club or been here since it started or somewhere in between. Members' partners, kids, etc all welcome too (well, mine are coming so ). http://www.millerandcarter.co.uk/images/banners/pub/banner-pubgenerichome-01.jpg When: Saturday 8th December, meet from 12:00, sit down to eat at 12:20. Stay as long as you like and even have an evening meal if you decide to stay all day... people have done this in the past. Where: Miller & Carter, Stourbridge Road, Wolverhampton, WV4 5NG [Google maps link] Menus: You can select at will from the full menu and prices Or you can opt for the fixed price 'festive lunch' fixed price menu (Two courses: £14.95 | Three courses: £18.95) How to book: Just say you're coming and how many in your party so I know how many tables to book. The club calendar entry for this event is here for those that want to use it to set themselves a reminder, but I'll use the list in this thread for final numbers. Now, get your names down... That is all! EDIT - final numbers confirmed as follows: 1. SteveR (2 adults, 1 child, 1 baby) 2. Burna (1 adult) 3. Little num + worst half (2 adults) 4. TrickTT (2 adults, 2 kids) 5. Sheefa (1 adult) 6. Nikue (2 adults) 7. Bignum (2 adults, 1 kid) 8. Pete (1 adult) [9. SpikedJack (2 adults but not eating)] 13 / 4 / 1 = 18

Sounds like it, if your clutch definitely wasn't slipping.

Extreme road camber, poor suspension geometry (aftermarket shocks by any chance, with adjustable ride height?), or even just salt on the roads (as it's hydroscopic it'll pullmoisture out of the air which makes it live driving on a damp road even when the road looks dry) can cause this - as well as all of the reasons discussed above. When you went back to check the road, were there any tyre marks? None, one or two?