wez_p

nice parking too toby i think the aim is to get in between the lines as opposed to over the top of one

doh - yes i paid money for this (£30) is it worthless? is my glory of 334BHP possibly just a computer mistake?! tell my secretary to get Thor on the phone...

from what i understand, the bottom scale is RPM. I did tell them that it would go up to 7000 but looks like he only went to 6000 - and apparently, the graph is the right way round!! GarethEves had his on the rollers straight after me & there was nothing like that kind of power drop off afterwards for him the operator thought that the massive torque reading was due to him feathering the throttle to avoid the kick down from 3rd to 2nd and then there being more fuel suddenly when he went for it

had the car dyno'd on a mobile rolling road on Sunday mobile rolling road not 100% on the reliability of the thing but they claimed they were usually within 5% of people's comparisons to regular RRs anyway, jsut wondered if anyone could give me some ideas as to why it appears that the power drops off so quickly on the curve could it be leaking boost maybe?

are you meaning that as you take your foot off the accelerator the vacuum reading is greater than when you are at idle or haven't just took your foot off the accelerator?

please tell me that's fine mesh it's attached to and not nailed to the FMIC that's where mine is at the mo on my Ridox bumper, it's just tie wrapped to the mesh

bought my Supra from Paul and a couple of other bits - always very helpful & honest something that doesn't seem to have been mentioned is that he has his own Supra to practise on and that, from what i've heard, goes like stink! Definitely looks the part

i think the Jap date format is YYYY-MM-DD so it would still be a little odd cheers for the replies, i know i've done the oil when i got it so that ain't a prob lmao @ the crispy duck translation!

can anyone translate what this sticker is in my engine bay? i'm guessing something like the mileage when the cam belt was changed? but no idea about the rest. possibly a date format but 16/1/11 doesn't make much sense cheers, Wes

ahh what a community this is now you have no excuses Gaz if you're dyno readings don't beat mine on Sunday

sounds like a monster that bumper looks like it could be problematic in car parks etc just like mine!

several European countries are closer to you than Gareth!!

nothing as gruesome as the deathwhine Tom @Homer - i think i'm a little more at ease with it now thanks cheers guys

which part says it was a Honda engine for the 2 litre turbo?

cheers for the replies guys @penguin - never push it when cold, it is literally just normal acceleration away @mFs - thanks for that, not what i wanted to hear but i have no probs with power, did you? @50 - this is what i'm most likely to do until i can sense some form of problem other than the noise @Terminator - this is what i was hoping for puts my mind at ease a little @adi2009 - cheers, but i ain't gonna buy something i don't need & i think i'd prefer to stick with japs, although i would more than likely get some hybrids or something if they did go rather than getting the standards again @Tom - yeah they DEFINITELY louder since the Apexi induction kit went on but i wasn't sure about them being louder when cold i'm gonna get a sound file done & then see what you all reckon

the sooner you start mentioning that you're unhappy with the service and would like a reduction in costs, the sooner he may start trying hope it sorts out soon mate if not, gis a shout & i'll come round with ya to 'have a word' Wes (2 foot shorter than Gaz)

unless there are internal mods like forged pistons then i'd be a little wary if it's really that quick - doubt it would last long normal tricks are the usual, improved induction, decat, maybe 3" exhaust pipework & up the boost (shouldn't be more than about 12.5psi on standard internals) advanced mods i think would be tubular manifold, upgraded cams, front mount intercooler (say from a modded Pulsar top mount one) and a T28 instead of the standard T25 turbo BUT, standard i would be estimating a 7secs 0-60 with around 200BHP, so how he has made it anything near a BPU Supra without going VERY silly with what's been spent on it, i don't know! get a list of mods for us

http://www.rovertech.net is the place the Performance Rover Group are putting a team in for TOTB again this year, after a T16 powered Tomcat Coupe won the top speed run last year for the FWD class don't know if people already know but the standard turbo Coupe does 0-60 is about 5.5secs, not bad for a 2 litre with 1 turbo compared to our 3 litre with 2 turbos eh?! and they have a lot more room in the back

something i've noticed on my j-spec TT Auto is that when the car is cold in the morning, the sound of the #1 spooling up (don't think i ever drive with #2 on when cold) is noticeably louder than when it's warmed up a little does anyone else notice this? it doesn't sound like the death whine to me & it only seems to be when it's cold could it be the ceramics sounding different when they're cold? cheers, Wes p.s. if anyone's interested i could post up some sound files to show the comparison

as far as i know all the 2.0litre turbo engines in the 200, 400, 600 & 800 range were the Rover T16 engine well known for head gasket maintenance required but as long as you go for the 'klinger' 3 part metal gasket & regularly maintain the engine it should be good power for the money these cars go far, even with the boost turned up a little bit i had the 620ti (2.0litre turbo) and it was a great mix of comfort with power, whilst i was saving for the Supra

so if i bought one of these which seem to be a bargain http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=43120&item=7980319015&rd=1 what else would i need & how much is it likely to cost? from what i've found from searching i think i need a replacement pipe which allows the BOV to fit to it, which i can't do with the standard rubber one?

so there's a better alternative to this type of thing? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=72205&item=7978959481&rd=1

the proper internal diameter normally being 3mm?

get one of those tie wraps on it nice and tight, you know those little plastic jobbies that lock when you thread it in the other end & you can only cut off again