TrickTT
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Everything posted by TrickTT
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no problem mate.
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The PRND buttons by the gearstick light up. If they dont, its just 1 x1.4w capless bulp to change. Pull off the centre console trim around the gear lever and you can just see the two green wires going into the bulb holder. Its just a 1/4 turn to release it. Its a bit fiddly, but not too bad.
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Depends on which version you have, but on mine, click the "initial setup" on the startup screen, then select japanese region, then F10.
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With axle stands, look at the width of the base, you want as wide a footprint as possible for stability. I have had a car fall off and land on top of me while on axle stands and i was off work for a month. I was undoing an exhaust manifold with a big bar and i basically pulled the whole car over and the stands just fell sideways. Fortunately it wasn't the supe or i probably wouldnt be here now. I now have a set of 10 ton truck stands with a 16" wide base.
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I wondered a while ago if anyone makes a linear AFR display, with or without a numeric display next to it. Would open up a whole new range of mounting points, i'd maybe put mine where the stock T/C & active spoiler switches are. Should be fairly simple to do. Have to get the electronics bods on here thinking!
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Just add it to the postage.
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Halfords Professional range are all made by Sykes Pickavant and are of excellent quality and come with a lifetime guarantee. Excellent tools for the money.
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If it wired up properly the range is 40 - 110mph, if whoever fitted your DSC didnt link it to the cruise ECU then its 40 - 110 kph, (70 mph). Its an easy fix if thats what you've got, just one wire.
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Removing the manifold, cam covers and turbo-piping
TrickTT replied to c0c4in3's topic in mkiv Technical
Inlet manifold would be easy on the bench, but if the engines still in the car, be prepared for some skinned knuckles. Its easier if you remove the battery and power steering resevoir first. -
Pump them out using the brake pedal while they are still attached to the brake line. Go slow, and as they are nearly out you will see them start to twist a bit. They should just pull out the last bit by hand.
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Metallic blue plasticote paint from B&Q. Just rubbed down and sprayed on, its supposed to be heat resistant to 250C
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The only plug that would kill them all is the one on the back of the dimmer switch
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I was off work last week, so I took all the aluminium off the engine and polished it. All done by hand using wet/dry paper, starting at 80 and working up to 800, then finishing with autoglym metal polish. If anyone wants a bank robbing, let me know, cos i've polished off my fingerprints on my right hand;) .
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I know when changing the brake fluid, its normal to start far away from the master cylinder and work closer ie. n/s/r - o/s/r - n/s/f -o/s/f. Question is, with all lines from the master cylinder going to the abs pump on the n/s wing, should you take this as the start point and bleed in order from furthest away from the abs unit which would make the order o/s/r - n/s/r - o/s/f - n/s/f. Or does it not really make any difference.
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Fog light mod without a resistor (an easier method?)
TrickTT replied to Tom's topic in mkiv Technical
but then it stays on for the rest of the journey. -
When i did mine, i took the instrument panel apart and fitted the leds pointing backwards, away from the dials. The white plastic back of the instrument cluster reflects a nice even spread onto the dials. I'll have to post some pics one day.
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Haven't eaten a thing since LEDGEND IN MY OWN LUNCHTIME
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Didn't most of the buttons change every week as the incredibly hot mechanic Patricia McPherson fitted a new gadget just in time to save the Hoff from whatever crisis he found himself in. I can't see a super pursuit button on that pic
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Blues Brothers Its 106 miles to Chicago, we've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, its dark, and we're wearing sunglasses.... HIT IT!!! Excellent music too.
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Cool, just broke up from work for 10 nights, i'll be there.
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Heres a pic of mine when i brought the car - i hated it. As for the legality, a number plate should be mounted vertically and have a BSI mark on it which wont apply to most stick on ones. DONT DO IT - THEY LOOK SH1TE
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isn't it an A+ engine in a 1992. If so its an easy job, just flush the engine well.
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Only on J-spec though. UK specs need a cat test from '1991 onwards.
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Noise is not an official test with a defined sound level, its just based on the opinion of the tester, go to a friendly garage and you'll have no problems.
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Just came across this on Pistonheads: http://www.pipelinecard.org/default.html No idea if it will ever happen, but I've registered anyway.
